I'm in the USA. I know that hardware stores sell threaded rods.
However, I don't know the proper terms for the end and middle pieces, though. The end pieces have a function similar to T-Nuts, but look nicer.
I also want to know if the center piece operates as a turnbuckle, as in, you twist it and it pulls the two rods together.
Also, any comments on this arrangement vs. a conventional dowel brace will be appreciated. I figure, the Germans are doing it, so there must be a good engineering reason.
Thanks, john
Just because one German guy did it once does not mean much. I have never seen this again after the Nada article.
The usual method of using wooden sticks and glue will work just as well.
Progress! The end pieces are called "Sleeve Nuts." https://belmetric.com/ultra-low-profile-allen-sleeve-nut-stainless-steel/?sku=NSLEEVE6LOWSS
So, perhaps sleeve nuts, threaded rods, and a small turnbuckle for the center section.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...c-Plated-Turnbuckle-Hook-Eye-807066/204273924
On the theory that as you turn the turnbuckle, the rods move closer together.
My lingering concern about this arrangement is that the metal pieces might nonetheless ring. Whereas a dowel rod under compression might be somewhat damped.
Thanks to all,
john
You don't need a turnbuckle, I feel they just used two pieces of rod and the nut in the middle to have a way to adjust the length of rod so nothing sticks out when the nuts on the outside are tightened. When they are tight they won't ring or rattle.
The rods don't take up as much space as braces will. You could just use regular braces and add a liter to the cabinet volume.
The rods don't take up as much space as braces will. You could just use regular braces and add a liter to the cabinet volume.
All you need are Allen head bolts, long coupling nuts and a threaded rod. Not need for a turn buckle or left handed threads.
You should use a spade bit to drill the holes for the bolt head hole first, careful to get the depth just right. Then using the smaller bit drill the clearance hole. Do not drill the clearance hole first. Although I would consider using a washer to spread the load, but then there will be a gap around the bolt head.
Insert both bolts and then measure the distance between them. Cut your threaded rod shorter than that distance. You want the rod and bolts to go 3/2 times their diameter into the coupling nuts.
For 1/4” bolts and rods each should thread in 3/8”. Using a 3/2” long coupling nut on each side will allow a total of 3/2” of compression.
As a 1/4” steel bolt can only handle about 2,000 pounds of tension, you should be fine for modest sized boxes. If you got for 3/8” bolts you should be able to do even quite large enclosures.
You don’t want to over tension the bolts as without washers they should be able to pull entirely through the wood.
Coupling nuts come in short lengths that are meant for full insertion and also longer lengths to allow adjustments.
You should use a spade bit to drill the holes for the bolt head hole first, careful to get the depth just right. Then using the smaller bit drill the clearance hole. Do not drill the clearance hole first. Although I would consider using a washer to spread the load, but then there will be a gap around the bolt head.
Insert both bolts and then measure the distance between them. Cut your threaded rod shorter than that distance. You want the rod and bolts to go 3/2 times their diameter into the coupling nuts.
For 1/4” bolts and rods each should thread in 3/8”. Using a 3/2” long coupling nut on each side will allow a total of 3/2” of compression.
As a 1/4” steel bolt can only handle about 2,000 pounds of tension, you should be fine for modest sized boxes. If you got for 3/8” bolts you should be able to do even quite large enclosures.
You don’t want to over tension the bolts as without washers they should be able to pull entirely through the wood.
Coupling nuts come in short lengths that are meant for full insertion and also longer lengths to allow adjustments.
They are called coupling nuts. You can find any connector you want at McMaster Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/coupling-nuts-4/