I'm brainstorming some options for a DIY belt-drive TT...thinking about using a VPI inverted bearing and platter, Rega RB250, building the plinth myself. The only question mark I have concerns the motor...what are you guys using for a standalone motor for your DIY 'tables? Current Teres prices for their motor are out of my budget, VPI has an outboard motor that's $400 that I could afford but it appears to be out of stock @ ElusiveDisc, I don't know if that's temporary or for good. Not sure what Scheu sells their motor unit for.
While I could spend $400 on a motor pod, it would really fit the whole DIY scheme to put something together myself for less. Would stepper motors be the way to go for this?
Any help is greatly appreciated 😎 😕
While I could spend $400 on a motor pod, it would really fit the whole DIY scheme to put something together myself for less. Would stepper motors be the way to go for this?
Any help is greatly appreciated 😎 😕
First decide whether you want to go DC or AC.
If DC, there's a group buy of a DC controller / motor / pulley system in the group buys section. The controller has equivalent performance to the better commercial units, the motor is a high spec Maxon unit.
If AC, decide on a motor. The motors VPI use come from Hurst in the States, I believe they're about $50 each. The Premotec motor (Linn, PT etc) is available in the UK / Europe for a bit more. You can run an AC motors on raw AC using a faking cap or you can use use a dedicated controller. The Hurst motor and a dedicated controller should come in around $400.
The pod casing is your call.
If DC, there's a group buy of a DC controller / motor / pulley system in the group buys section. The controller has equivalent performance to the better commercial units, the motor is a high spec Maxon unit.
If AC, decide on a motor. The motors VPI use come from Hurst in the States, I believe they're about $50 each. The Premotec motor (Linn, PT etc) is available in the UK / Europe for a bit more. You can run an AC motors on raw AC using a faking cap or you can use use a dedicated controller. The Hurst motor and a dedicated controller should come in around $400.
The pod casing is your call.
Is there a definite advantage to one way vs. the other?
I wish I had machinist skills, I've seen some amazing motor pods made by members on here, I know I can't do that...
I wish I had machinist skills, I've seen some amazing motor pods made by members on here, I know I can't do that...
Mark is much more experienced than I am regarding motor systems
but I have an opinion🙂
DC motors can offer significant performance. All that must be done is provide a measurable and absolutely rock solid voltage to attain a particular speed. Not sure if any here have used a feedback setup to try to control the speed. And also not sure if DC drift can be easily accounted for. You can also power them with a rechargeable battery setup if you like, and never have the charger on while playing records...
AC can be driven by the mains, but if the mains are off in frequency (and many are), then your turntable 's speed will be off. You can generate a solid 120Hz, 100 Volts using a decent mono amp or T-amp , and a crystal oscillator, or create your own CD or MP3 file for the signal and amplify it.
Many AC motors can actually run very quiet, but the voltage must be dropped (apparently the Linn likes 72 Volts, and performs nicely with it) You may have to give the table a spin with your hand to get it going...something I have just learned to do over the years to protect the fragile motor in my Oracle (which is DC, but replacements apparently are no longer available).
stew
but I have an opinion🙂
DC motors can offer significant performance. All that must be done is provide a measurable and absolutely rock solid voltage to attain a particular speed. Not sure if any here have used a feedback setup to try to control the speed. And also not sure if DC drift can be easily accounted for. You can also power them with a rechargeable battery setup if you like, and never have the charger on while playing records...
AC can be driven by the mains, but if the mains are off in frequency (and many are), then your turntable 's speed will be off. You can generate a solid 120Hz, 100 Volts using a decent mono amp or T-amp , and a crystal oscillator, or create your own CD or MP3 file for the signal and amplify it.
Many AC motors can actually run very quiet, but the voltage must be dropped (apparently the Linn likes 72 Volts, and performs nicely with it) You may have to give the table a spin with your hand to get it going...something I have just learned to do over the years to protect the fragile motor in my Oracle (which is DC, but replacements apparently are no longer available).
stew
Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm just going to take the motor from the VPI HW-19jr I have already, and come up with some way to make it into a standalone unit...it'll work for the time being, I can always upgrade to a higher-quality motor later on 🙂
I think I'm just going to take the motor from the VPI HW-19jr I have already, and come up with some way to make it into a standalone unit...it'll work for the time being, I can always upgrade to a higher-quality motor later on 🙂
poor, you....
having to settle for a VPI motor unit....
is it a spare or are you taking apart a VPI to usethe motor?
stew
having to settle for a VPI motor unit....
is it a spare or are you taking apart a VPI to usethe motor?
stew
I am in the process of building one using the stock VPI motor.
It is part of a re-build of an older Mk3. I used 4” square aluminum tube lined with lead and fabricated top and bottom caps from laminations of aluminum, acrylic and sheet lead. It weighs about 10 lbs with the motor and spikes. Unfortunately, I can’t say how well it worked as I am still in the process of finishing the project.
I started off with the idea of building just a sama but when I started scrounging materials I ended up with enough to do a new plinth so I decided to build one of those too. The plinth is a lamination of 1” acrylic -1/4” aluminum - 1/16” lead -1/4” aluminum -1” acrylic. The photo is a dry-fit of the plinth without the pod which is going to sit in the opening in the back.
It is part of a re-build of an older Mk3. I used 4” square aluminum tube lined with lead and fabricated top and bottom caps from laminations of aluminum, acrylic and sheet lead. It weighs about 10 lbs with the motor and spikes. Unfortunately, I can’t say how well it worked as I am still in the process of finishing the project.
I started off with the idea of building just a sama but when I started scrounging materials I ended up with enough to do a new plinth so I decided to build one of those too. The plinth is a lamination of 1” acrylic -1/4” aluminum - 1/16” lead -1/4” aluminum -1” acrylic. The photo is a dry-fit of the plinth without the pod which is going to sit in the opening in the back.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi guys
Martyh ,Nice project! Loved it ,one question,couldn't you flash the screws for a better look or maybe laminate all the different materials together for the plinth.
Mark Kelly,any idea where I can get a pod ?I am in the 2008 group buy,and looked at the BIX but it seems to me it's no longer available.Any help would be appreciated.
Nanook ,We both got the Oracle Delphi it seems,mine is the mk2
with the Rega RB1000.Once I complete the Teres DIY table ,I will use the Rega arm on it.
Best regards to all
George
Martyh ,Nice project! Loved it ,one question,couldn't you flash the screws for a better look or maybe laminate all the different materials together for the plinth.
Mark Kelly,any idea where I can get a pod ?I am in the 2008 group buy,and looked at the BIX but it seems to me it's no longer available.Any help would be appreciated.
Nanook ,We both got the Oracle Delphi it seems,mine is the mk2
with the Rega RB1000.Once I complete the Teres DIY table ,I will use the Rega arm on it.
Best regards to all
George
- Status
- Not open for further replies.