I am looking for a first DIY speaker project, and it seem something using a full-range speaker would be a good place to start. I'm looking for recommendations on a relatively simple cabinet design for someone with access to proper tools, but not much in the way of woodworking skills to ramp up with. Something that is well-known and documented online would be great as well in case I have any questions or issues.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
Thanks in advance.
Scott
I'll point out that the number of designs in that family is expanding faster than my ability to keep up the webpage. More here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/154103-millisize-me.html
And this at least mentions them all: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/160747-minionken-nomenclature-what-those-names.html
dave
And this at least mentions them all: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/160747-minionken-nomenclature-what-those-names.html
dave
This Zaph audio design using a pair of HiVi B3S seems very simple and an excellent starting point
Zaph|Audio
Zaph|Audio
Speaking from experience, the Fonkens are great; however, they aren't necessarily simple as far as building the cabinets. They aren't horribly difficult, but since you mentioned "relatively simple" this site has some good projects.
Do It Yourself Speaker Building, Outdoor Speakers | Rock Speakers | Garden Speakers | Patio Speakers | In-Wall Speakers | Ceiling Speakers and more!
You can always download WinISD, buy a full range driver, and design your own cabinet, too. I'm by no means a speaker designer, but I put a Tang Band 3 inch driver in a box I developed with Win ISD and am VERY pleased with it. It's on my desk at work and sounds great. I have another Tang Band driver I've tried in a couple different enclosures, just to experiment. Mind you, there are no filters for these, just a driver and a cabinet.
Mike
Do It Yourself Speaker Building, Outdoor Speakers | Rock Speakers | Garden Speakers | Patio Speakers | In-Wall Speakers | Ceiling Speakers and more!
You can always download WinISD, buy a full range driver, and design your own cabinet, too. I'm by no means a speaker designer, but I put a Tang Band 3 inch driver in a box I developed with Win ISD and am VERY pleased with it. It's on my desk at work and sounds great. I have another Tang Band driver I've tried in a couple different enclosures, just to experiment. Mind you, there are no filters for these, just a driver and a cabinet.
Mike
Thanks all for the pointers. There is a lot to dig into here.
mikje: Those look close to my 'speed' at the moment. Much appreciated!
Scott
mikje: Those look close to my 'speed' at the moment. Much appreciated!
Scott
Check out the Arpeggio- very simple, well-engineered, and documented. It's in the Articles section of this site.
puttin the cart before the horse....
For clarity's sake, I am a single driver "believer"🙂
My typical peeve shall be restated here:
When you answer these questions, you may end up with a speaker that is easy to build and one that may keep you happy for a long time. Single driver loudspeakers are very good, lots of pluses, but most notably the lack of a crossover and all the nasties that that can happen if you don't get a cross-over right. Cross-overs are hard to design correctly, even with good software.
Simplest enclosure is no enclosure (open baffle). Then well constructed, small Sealed 6 sided boxes (small so no internal bracing required), followed by small Bass Reflex. After that things like Transmission lines, etc. A 5 sided box (the Metronomes--see planet 10's site) can give some very good results as well. It all depends on the answers to the first three questions, and where you might want to end up.
Once you decide what you want in terms of size, etc then start looking at appropriate drivers and their manufacturer's recommended enclosures or well documented projects. Planet 10 is a great resource, regardless what drivers/enclosures you end up building.
For clarity's sake, I am a single driver "believer"🙂
My typical peeve shall be restated here:
- How big is your room?
- What type of music do you listen to?
- What amplifier(s) do you use?
When you answer these questions, you may end up with a speaker that is easy to build and one that may keep you happy for a long time. Single driver loudspeakers are very good, lots of pluses, but most notably the lack of a crossover and all the nasties that that can happen if you don't get a cross-over right. Cross-overs are hard to design correctly, even with good software.
Simplest enclosure is no enclosure (open baffle). Then well constructed, small Sealed 6 sided boxes (small so no internal bracing required), followed by small Bass Reflex. After that things like Transmission lines, etc. A 5 sided box (the Metronomes--see planet 10's site) can give some very good results as well. It all depends on the answers to the first three questions, and where you might want to end up.
Once you decide what you want in terms of size, etc then start looking at appropriate drivers and their manufacturer's recommended enclosures or well documented projects. Planet 10 is a great resource, regardless what drivers/enclosures you end up building.
For clarity's sake, I am a single driver "believer"🙂
My typical peeve shall be restated here:
- How big is your room?
- What type of music do you listen to?
- What amplifier(s) do you use?
1) Room is about 10x12' give or take.
2) A wide variety, big orchestral classical works to metal
3) I was of the mind to eventually build a T-AMP (AMP6-BASIC), so I imagine they would have to be relatively efficient speakers as well.
Scott
...
3) I was of the mind to eventually build a T-AMP (AMP6-BASIC), so I imagine they would have to be relatively efficient speakers as well.
...
That's what you might think, but YMMV! I was in the same frame of mind to begin with - initially thought that I had to get something super efficient (i.e. Fostex, above 90db/1w/1m), but reading around (a lot), plenty of others have reported good performance from pairing 81-86db drivers with a T-amp, e.g.
CHR-70 (I'm building cabs for these now!), 4 ohm, 85db - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...chr-70-application-thread-20.html#post1870469
Tang Bands W3-881/593 8ohm, 86db - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/90212-delsol-inexpensive-full-range-bookshelf-13.html
HiVi B3N/B3S - 8ohm, 81db (very inefficient!) - but still gets good reviews from T-amp owners (in Italian) here - Audiocostruzioni - Il Portale dell'alta fedelt amatoriale, also mentioned here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/151367-diy-desktop-speakers-suggestions.html
I can't offer my opinion, as my first practice builds with the B3Ns are still being built (see below - I'm using the Italian B3N design as it seemed easy to make from offcuts).
My approach has been to just get a couple of cheap pairs of drivers and see what you can do with them... you can always sell them on fleabay if they don't work out for you!
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More questions to consider.
How low do you need your speakers to go? Could you use a subwoofer?
What size cabinets are acceptable to you?
The answers to those questions will help you decide on drivers and cabinet design. Generally speaking, the lower you want to go, the larger the cabinets and drivers get.
How low do you need your speakers to go? Could you use a subwoofer?
What size cabinets are acceptable to you?
The answers to those questions will help you decide on drivers and cabinet design. Generally speaking, the lower you want to go, the larger the cabinets and drivers get.
I am thinking closer to bookshelf sized, possibly using a computer for a source on them. I don't mind a slightly larger cabinet however rather tha going the route of getting a sub involved as well. (Understanding the compromise I may make in the low end)
Scott
Scott
Am I crazy or on this page: ZillaAudio.com, Outdoor Speakers | Rock Speakers | Garden Speakers | Patio Speakers | In-Wall Speakers | Ceiling Speakers and more!
Is that only being held together by glue?
Scott
Is that only being held together by glue?
Scott
Why would you be crazy. Just glue is fine. Actually probably stronger than if using screws as well.
We'll use brad nails if we are veneering, makes assembly much easier without creating the big holes a screw would(the hole weakens the box).
dave
We'll use brad nails if we are veneering, makes assembly much easier without creating the big holes a screw would(the hole weakens the box).
dave
Why would you be crazy. Just glue is fine. Actually probably stronger than if using screws as well.
We'll use brad nails if we are veneering, makes assembly much easier without creating the big holes a screw would(the hole weakens the box).
dave
Was more verifying I was seeing things correctly. Thanks 🙂
Dave,
A little influence 😉
Its a 35 litre with the usual irrational number use.
The 3 ports are 4" long.
Also the driver is mounted 7-5/8" from the top (internal).
I was looking at the Fostex recommended BR, the port seems very long.
Josh
A little influence 😉
Its a 35 litre with the usual irrational number use.
The 3 ports are 4" long.
Also the driver is mounted 7-5/8" from the top (internal).
I was looking at the Fostex recommended BR, the port seems very long.
Josh
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