Having built a few valve amps over the years one of the most difficult parts of amp build is labeling. In the past I've used Letraset which is a rub on transfer but they are now no longer made, the only option being to buy part used sheets on Ebay. Aside from the fact that some of these sheets are decades old and past their best it's a fiddly job and tricky to get a good result. I've looked at professional panel services but price is an issue. Anyhoo, in my eternal search for a solution I found these the other day, see - https://www.radiodaze.com/generic-amplifier-decal-set-dcl-amp3/ they look to be a nifty solution.
Has anyone used these and what do think of them, second, is anyone in the UK interested in chipping in on a group buy to reduce shipping costs? Shipping is $18.46, the labels $12 something, I don't think there's any customs charges as a potential order is under £135.
Post a reply & drop us a PM if interested on getting a set. Andy.
Has anyone used these and what do think of them, second, is anyone in the UK interested in chipping in on a group buy to reduce shipping costs? Shipping is $18.46, the labels $12 something, I don't think there's any customs charges as a potential order is under £135.
Post a reply & drop us a PM if interested on getting a set. Andy.
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Not to derail your post but I use a P-Touch machine with clear labels. Can grt white or black lettering. Looks much better in person as the camera seems to highlight the clear tape a bit.
Here is the cheapest one I found.
Here is the cheapest one I found.
No worries, derail away, any suggestions welcome, I know this topic comes up occasionally. Just had a look on Ebay and you can get a second hand one in the UK for about a tenner. The spare tape prices don't look too onerous either, I also noticed you can get heatshrink to print.... nifty. How thick is the tape, does it stick well and how long does the glue last? No issues with curling in hot locations?
Cheers, Andy.
Not offhand though another possible solution to look into. I have looked at proffesional printing services in the past but have only been able to find stick on labels but these are not clear. I've heard it's possible to use a laser printer too but being on a budget rules that out. Thanks for your suggestion AS.
Cheers, Andy.
There are a few "grades" of tape available in clear I believe. I've been using the laminated tape for over ten years without it peeling, curling or yellowing. I just use it in areas that don't get particularly hot. On the chassis near a tube seems fine but I wouldn't label a tube with it.
Try waterslide decals. A bit tricky at first. Quite durable and flexible, including application to larger dome shapes. E
I’ve used the dry transfer lettering like used on model trains. You can give it a brush of clear lacquer or something to make it more permanent.
Yes, labelling machines like Dymo, Brother, etc have two separate ribbons for the base and the characters: you can opt for a transparent base, and any color for the characters: Black, white, red, etc.
The more sophisticated models can be connected to a PC to generate any type of font or graphic
I'll see if I can get one in that case.
I think that is what the decals are in the link I posted: what decals are referring to?
That's what Letraset is, each individual letter has to be applied one by one, hard to get a good finish.
As mentioned I'll see if I can get a Brother printer cheap and give it a go though my orriginaloffer stands IE to try some of the decals from Radiodaze.
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You design your own labels on your pc. I used sunnyscopa (www.sunnyscopa.co.kr) bought through amazon. E
The high-class ($200) technician label printers do power telecom and network labels, and heat-shrink tubing, to stick for decades. Yes, they are overpriced. I'm kicking myself because the local electrician did a retirement yard-sale and I did not think to ask about labelers. (He had a room full of 930-foot part-reels of CAT-6 cable, 0000-gauge factory power wire, and etc.)
I've come home with two cheap and mid-price 2nd-hand Brother home/crafts label printers and do a lot of power wiring labels. Yes, there are many combinations of 'ink' and tape color. No, I've never had one with RS232/USB port for custom graphics.
The Cricut will do fancy engine/saw/pump gaskets.
I've come home with two cheap and mid-price 2nd-hand Brother home/crafts label printers and do a lot of power wiring labels. Yes, there are many combinations of 'ink' and tape color. No, I've never had one with RS232/USB port for custom graphics.
The Cricut will do fancy engine/saw/pump gaskets.
A good HP laser printer with clear adhesive vinyl paper gives you the most flexibility for typography and graphics, even things like potentiometer tics is easy. just print up sections or the whole face plate, border them so you have cut lines for xacto knife and straight edge to cut. Clean the surface with alcohol, stick on the sections, and even clear coat the whole thing is an option. Ink jet just doesn't have the quality of a laser printer, but will work too.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=clear+ad...ve+printer,aps,376&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_22
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=clear+ad...ve+printer,aps,376&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_22
Check out the Dymo Rhino 4200. Prints permanent labels that will last for decades, several colours of both print and tape, and it also prints on heat-shrink (theirs, natch, not the normal stuff, but still a genius idea). Got mine for about $120. There is a case for it, and aftermarket labels at better prices. And it has a proper QWERTYUIOP keyboard, and all kinds of control over font, size, direction, etc, and you can save and recall both settings and text. There is also a tradie version in a carry case, about $200, but I didn't need that. Recommended.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D...=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw
You can print your own transfer lettering!
Do note inkjet paper cannot be used in a laser printer! But they do make laser printer versions.
You can print your own transfer lettering!
Do note inkjet paper cannot be used in a laser printer! But they do make laser printer versions.
Hello D. A.
in a previous project I leaned for screen printing to an italian site specialized in fine bronze/aluminium printed labels.
If interested look for cartellimax.it.
They make various formats and personalized elements. Of course for UK shipping you'd have to consider the export fees too, but it might be worthy if you get some of these. This is the example I paid around 10€.
in a previous project I leaned for screen printing to an italian site specialized in fine bronze/aluminium printed labels.
If interested look for cartellimax.it.
They make various formats and personalized elements. Of course for UK shipping you'd have to consider the export fees too, but it might be worthy if you get some of these. This is the example I paid around 10€.
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I use a P-touch for all my labels. I use clear with black or white on clear background. It is relatively cheap and you’ll use it to label everything in the house! The unit I have plugs via USB into any computer and uses their software to do all you will need. They have dife grades of label and every combo you can think of. It can also be used to make flag style wire labels.
Same here with the USB P-Touch for all sorts of uses and more importantly enables manual tap length and cut management.
Years ago I learnt silkscreening ... never looked back.
Admittedly too much work for a single panel .... and yet I have done that a few times.
Of course, I am already setup, so half the work is done.
Not talking "investment" because a basic setup is cheap.
Here some of my Guitar Amp front panels.
Sillscreened with white ink on black painted 1.5mm aluminum panels; of course you can screen any colour on naked aluminum if you want.
Showing front/back so you see the raw aluminum surface.
A typical 8 panel "minimum batch"
Why 8?
Actual screening takes less than 1 minute per panel, problem is that later you MUST thoroughly clean the screen remove all traces of paint , the standard being: "you must look at the screen and NOT know which colour was used", not kidding, the reason being that any residual ink (paint) will harden HARD and clog pores permanently.
You start losing the "I" dots, then fine lines, then small print becomes unreadable so you clen the screen well, period, which takes 15 to 30 minutes and at least a cup of cleaning solvent.
Nothing too bad, but if at all possible you try to screen a few panels, given it takes the exact same effort.
Again, I have done it for "just one", for some important "Famous" Musician or another.
Panels "populated" 😉
Auxiliary chemicals used: 2 component Wash Primer, the strong base which sticks to alumin um, you can paint with "anything" over it and it stays, the home/small shop solution to replace oven cured epoxy/powder coating which normally has to be sub contracted somewhere else.
And car type Nitro paint.
Admittedly too much work for a single panel .... and yet I have done that a few times.
Of course, I am already setup, so half the work is done.
Not talking "investment" because a basic setup is cheap.
Here some of my Guitar Amp front panels.
Sillscreened with white ink on black painted 1.5mm aluminum panels; of course you can screen any colour on naked aluminum if you want.
Showing front/back so you see the raw aluminum surface.
A typical 8 panel "minimum batch"
Why 8?
Actual screening takes less than 1 minute per panel, problem is that later you MUST thoroughly clean the screen remove all traces of paint , the standard being: "you must look at the screen and NOT know which colour was used", not kidding, the reason being that any residual ink (paint) will harden HARD and clog pores permanently.
You start losing the "I" dots, then fine lines, then small print becomes unreadable so you clen the screen well, period, which takes 15 to 30 minutes and at least a cup of cleaning solvent.
Nothing too bad, but if at all possible you try to screen a few panels, given it takes the exact same effort.
Again, I have done it for "just one", for some important "Famous" Musician or another.
Panels "populated" 😉
Auxiliary chemicals used: 2 component Wash Primer, the strong base which sticks to alumin um, you can paint with "anything" over it and it stays, the home/small shop solution to replace oven cured epoxy/powder coating which normally has to be sub contracted somewhere else.
And car type Nitro paint.