I need to buy another processor for my system. I am on my 5th DCX. The last 4 have all gone wrong with the frying eggs thing or random channels cutting out......
The DCX I use now has been ok so far 😀 (I need another unit to run my centre channel and subs)
I had the t.racks DSP 206 recommended to me in another thread as a better option than the DCX. (better sounding without the need for upgrades) I'm a bit wary as I don't know much about it.
Has anyone here used both units ? TBH I don't have a problem with the 'stock' sound of the DCX so upgrades for it are not an issue. Personally I find the DCX extremely easy to use It's just the reliability issues that bother me. (maybe I'm a little bitter that my last 4 went wrong.)
If the t.racks does everything the DCX does and is more reliable then maybe I should give that a go ?
Thanks,
Rob.
The DCX I use now has been ok so far 😀 (I need another unit to run my centre channel and subs)
I had the t.racks DSP 206 recommended to me in another thread as a better option than the DCX. (better sounding without the need for upgrades) I'm a bit wary as I don't know much about it.
Has anyone here used both units ? TBH I don't have a problem with the 'stock' sound of the DCX so upgrades for it are not an issue. Personally I find the DCX extremely easy to use It's just the reliability issues that bother me. (maybe I'm a little bitter that my last 4 went wrong.)
If the t.racks does everything the DCX does and is more reliable then maybe I should give that a go ?
Thanks,
Rob.
Hifi pal of mine got rid off his dcx, run'd out of needed eq. He has img stageline dsp26, seems to be enough for him.
I myself stay away from these cheapest. I would accept linea research asc48.
And car processors are interesting too 8-16 outputs, eats spdif and has volume knob on control panel
I myself stay away from these cheapest. I would accept linea research asc48.
And car processors are interesting too 8-16 outputs, eats spdif and has volume knob on control panel
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I have two t.racks DSP mini processors for stereo four way speakers. So far so good. A second hand Driverack PA is also a good option.
The t.rack FIR 408 looks interesting. Not a lot of taps but enough for a couple of high crossover points per side. Use harsch for the lowers and you can have a semi linear phase 4-way setup at a reasonable cost.
FIR is great option if setup changes and you want to try different stuff. Thomann is great place to buy and do research, sometimes wise people leave ratings.
I've got one DCX frying eggs and one still singing along.
The Linea ASC48 manninen recommended is the best processor audio quality-wise I own, and has some really unique limiter capabilities. Also has a slick implementation of on-the-fly adjustable linear phase xovers, albeit they are fixed at essentially LR24 type and order. Only downer is price imo.
The processor that has brought me the most joy is a Qsys 110f. It is amazing what can be done, and how easily it is to experiment and learn with. They go for about 1200-1500 on ebay, and are very robust, so used is no prob imo. If interested, i can give more info on what all they can do...
The Linea ASC48 manninen recommended is the best processor audio quality-wise I own, and has some really unique limiter capabilities. Also has a slick implementation of on-the-fly adjustable linear phase xovers, albeit they are fixed at essentially LR24 type and order. Only downer is price imo.
The processor that has brought me the most joy is a Qsys 110f. It is amazing what can be done, and how easily it is to experiment and learn with. They go for about 1200-1500 on ebay, and are very robust, so used is no prob imo. If interested, i can give more info on what all they can do...
Thanks for the suggestions,
I've been searching for reviews of the IMG unit but can't find much on the web. Its manual says its steepest slope is 4th order, whereas the DCX can do 8th order (not that I've ever needed more than a 4th order slope so far)
I can't find out what slopes the t.racks unit does, or at least I couldn't find it in the manual when I had a look on my phone this lunchtime.
I don't think I'd want a unit with a cooling fan in my listening room tbh, the less noise the better.
The pricier units look great but I can't really justify the spend right now.
I'm going to have another look at the manuals now and decide..
Cheers,
Rob.
I've been searching for reviews of the IMG unit but can't find much on the web. Its manual says its steepest slope is 4th order, whereas the DCX can do 8th order (not that I've ever needed more than a 4th order slope so far)
I can't find out what slopes the t.racks unit does, or at least I couldn't find it in the manual when I had a look on my phone this lunchtime.
I don't think I'd want a unit with a cooling fan in my listening room tbh, the less noise the better.
The pricier units look great but I can't really justify the spend right now.
I'm going to have another look at the manuals now and decide..
Cheers,
Rob.
The Dayton 4x8 unit is amazing bang for the buck. If you are willing to spend a little more the Ashley Proteas are hard to beat. I've installed dozens in pro audio environments and run my quad-amped Magenpan Tympani system off of one. Top quality and absolutely bulletproof. You can find deals on Ebay if you are patient.
Data point: my DCX has been working fine for maybe 10 yrs. Great unit. If you use REW, a DCX makes any testing and switching speakers etc instantaneous at the press of a button and sure makes it easy to explore fine-tuning of crossover parameters.
Good way to use the DCX is with SP/DIF coax input because it eliminates a processing stage.
B.
Good way to use the DCX is with SP/DIF coax input because it eliminates a processing stage.
B.
Ah, volume control
I don't know what Ben used, but for home Hi-Fi the volume control in my media player worked very well with the DCX and DEQ. I did extensive testing of software vs hardware volume control and could find no problems with software controlled volume that analog volume didn't have. When the volume is calculated in 32 or 64 but float and output to 24 bit PCM it's clean. And really a 10dB range was all that was ever needed.
In pro PA I have to run analog volume before the DCX. I'd like to do AES, but it's not practical.
I don't know what Ben used, but for home Hi-Fi the volume control in my media player worked very well with the DCX and DEQ. I did extensive testing of software vs hardware volume control and could find no problems with software controlled volume that analog volume didn't have. When the volume is calculated in 32 or 64 but float and output to 24 bit PCM it's clean. And really a 10dB range was all that was ever needed.
In pro PA I have to run analog volume before the DCX. I'd like to do AES, but it's not practical.
Typically the frying eggs problem is the ribbon cable connectors between the I/O and mainboard, soldering the connections has fixed it on a couple that I had the problem with, IIRC on some of the early versions the I/O board could touch the case so some insulation there may be worth throwing in as well.
Yes, Behringer is skimpy with gold plated contacts. Ordinarily that's OK in terms of SQ but helpful for price.
However, it is possible that people living near saltwater or humidity may have more problems than folks who live in excellent climates like Toronto.
B.
However, it is possible that people living near saltwater or humidity may have more problems than folks who live in excellent climates like Toronto.
B.
Perceptive of you to ask. Being two-way speakers these days (I have DIY wide band ESLs), I ganged 4 Bourne pots on one shaft. Have no quibbles at all with the results and have a nice single large knob with dial plate markings to adjust sound. OK, you need to wire a little box with 8 RCA jacks or coax.
I wanted to the full digits to get into and through the DCX and after to cut down volume.
Pano's approach makes sense for others. But some may find they are hardly lighting any LEDs on the DCX and thus tossing away a very large amount of S/N.
Depends on the gear you have and system gain-management issues.
B.
Yes I used to reseat the ribbon cables regularly on my old units and had a piece of thin card to insulate. Over time they just got worse to the point of unusable. I sold them all on ebay for spares/repair. My current unit is about 2 years old and still good so maybe the newer units have been built a bit better. (I'd assume behringer would have got fed up with the stream of warranty repairs on the same fault and tried to stop the problem)
I've decided to buy another DCX and hope it stays good.
Rob.
If you are coming into the stock analog inputs from a consumer level device, yes indeed. S/N isn't going to be good. I my case I was coming in AES digital, so no worries.
Yes it does.
At work I've used the Biamp system products many times and they are very clean with powerful DSP. The user interface is computer driven, and not the best, but it works. Since it's a common install item, the used market might be decent.
Do you use analogue attenuation too Pano? I'd be afraid of media player giving full output unforeseen
Yes.
I have my gain structure set up with analog attenuation at each power amp. Those attenuaters (volume controls) don't change once the gain structure is worked out.
Doing it without gain control or attenuation at each amp would be really tough. No thanks. 🙂
I have my gain structure set up with analog attenuation at each power amp. Those attenuaters (volume controls) don't change once the gain structure is worked out.
Doing it without gain control or attenuation at each amp would be really tough. No thanks. 🙂