Is it difficult to replicate a crossover made by a manufacturer? I have one of two that is failing. They are not cheap. Hopefully the problem is just a microscopic sized solder joint crack that I can redo. It will supply to the midrange but not the tweeter. However, after some 20-40 minutes of play, the tweeter will start to come in occasionally (I’m thinking the xover is heating up and that temporarily fixes it). The tweeter is fine because I tested it using the other xover. Can the items be measured electrically plus using the text on some of the components to replicate a new one?
The crossover that is wonky is one of the two for the Polk SR6500 driver set (which has been discontinued due to cost).
Thanks.
The crossover that is wonky is one of the two for the Polk SR6500 driver set (which has been discontinued due to cost).
Thanks.
You should be able to find the values of the crossover components by looking closely at them.
I recently rebuilt some Polk Monitor crossovers from '92 and they worked great.
Most likely the problem you are having is either a solder joint or a capacitor, inductor problems don't just come and go.
I recently rebuilt some Polk Monitor crossovers from '92 and they worked great.
Most likely the problem you are having is either a solder joint or a capacitor, inductor problems don't just come and go.
I would run jumper wires to determine the location of the problem and resolder if that's the problem or renew a part if it has failed.
I'd agree on solder joints.
WHen the tweeter is not working, look for where the signal is lost. One thing to do is whack the side of the thing, if the tweeter pops on or tries to come on, that mechanical shock of whacking it exposed a loose connection. And just tap on each part on the thing, looking for one that responds with tweeter sound.
Crossovers usually have a lot of parts either glued down or strapped in place, but not all. In any case, any part of size that can vibrate can also break off its wires. SOmetimes you see a cap with a wire lead going into the hole in the cicuit board, and the other side has a nice smooth intact solder joint around the bend over wire lead, but inside the hole, that lead is snapped in two. SOmetimes it touches and sometimes it doesn;t.. SO moving/pushing/tugging on each part can expose that.
Similarly, grasp the circuit board and flex it. That also can reveal broken or cracked connections.
certainly we want to look VERY closely at all the solder joints for small cracks around the lead ends.
WHen the tweeter is not working, look for where the signal is lost. One thing to do is whack the side of the thing, if the tweeter pops on or tries to come on, that mechanical shock of whacking it exposed a loose connection. And just tap on each part on the thing, looking for one that responds with tweeter sound.
Crossovers usually have a lot of parts either glued down or strapped in place, but not all. In any case, any part of size that can vibrate can also break off its wires. SOmetimes you see a cap with a wire lead going into the hole in the cicuit board, and the other side has a nice smooth intact solder joint around the bend over wire lead, but inside the hole, that lead is snapped in two. SOmetimes it touches and sometimes it doesn;t.. SO moving/pushing/tugging on each part can expose that.
Similarly, grasp the circuit board and flex it. That also can reveal broken or cracked connections.
certainly we want to look VERY closely at all the solder joints for small cracks around the lead ends.
Thank you for the agreement on solder joints! (I hope it is just that)
A very small and visually undetectable solder joint crack unless using a loupe is my hope (I have loupes for photography purposes). I found a crack in my Jeep's 'internal lighting amount slider switch' and it was only the loupe that showed the microscopic crack that caused the sometimes on/off electrical connection. I resoldered it and saved myself like $400 from the dealer!
The board inside each xover is not flexible, heh. Polk installed them in heavy steel heatsinks so I would have to remove the board. Overkill for the heatsinks if you ask me. Each mid/tweet combo driven by each xover can handle 125rms and I have a 150rms/ch amp. But, my EARS cannot handle that kind of rms, heh.
I most definitely appreciate all the advice and, as I mentioned above, I have seen solder joints crack in a very, VERY tiny way which makes them wonky. I'll carefully take apart the wonky xover and inspect it.
Thanks ALL! 😉 Truly appreciate it!
Or, as others have said, it can be rebuilt! Nice!
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