Two questions in one here really:
I want to build a pair of relatively short, small footprint floorstanders to get around issues with accommodating anything else. These will be no taller than 550mm with a footprint of about 150mm square. The fronts are going to have to be slanted to better aim the tweeters at the seated listening position.
From a drive unit point of view, I am considering using the drive units and crossovers from one of the Mission, Wharfedale and Tannoy bookshelf speakers I have lying around. My firsts question is, if I follow this route, as long as I maintain the internal volume of the original, if not the shape, will I be ok? Any porting of the original will be included.
The other option is to buy new drive units and crossovers. I don't want to spend more than about £200 on these (I have all the wood required). Can anyone point me in the direction of suitable drive unit kits (bass/mid, crossover, tweeter) with suggested cabinet dimensions for these. Max bass size is likely to be 5". Thankyou.
I want to build a pair of relatively short, small footprint floorstanders to get around issues with accommodating anything else. These will be no taller than 550mm with a footprint of about 150mm square. The fronts are going to have to be slanted to better aim the tweeters at the seated listening position.
From a drive unit point of view, I am considering using the drive units and crossovers from one of the Mission, Wharfedale and Tannoy bookshelf speakers I have lying around. My firsts question is, if I follow this route, as long as I maintain the internal volume of the original, if not the shape, will I be ok? Any porting of the original will be included.
The other option is to buy new drive units and crossovers. I don't want to spend more than about £200 on these (I have all the wood required). Can anyone point me in the direction of suitable drive unit kits (bass/mid, crossover, tweeter) with suggested cabinet dimensions for these. Max bass size is likely to be 5". Thankyou.
The problem with re-using the crossovers from a bookshelf is that the crossover is designed for a particular frontplate width... Not likely to be as thin as the speakers you're planning.
If I were in your shoes, I'd consider this kit: -Microspeaker s With a 9cm*14cm footprint, it would make a very compact column simply by adding a base to it.
If I were in your shoes, I'd consider this kit: -Microspeaker s With a 9cm*14cm footprint, it would make a very compact column simply by adding a base to it.
There will be some differences if you use the same interior volume and crossover due to changes in the baffle shape, and therefore baffle diffraction. However, it probably won't be drastically different.
Just keep in mind that with your size constraints, you are probably talking 7-7.5 liters MAX for interior volume, and that's assuming 0.5" plywood for your walls and baffle, which is thinner than I like personally, particularly for the baffle. I'm not too familiar with what kits are available so someone else will have to help with that 🙂
Just keep in mind that with your size constraints, you are probably talking 7-7.5 liters MAX for interior volume, and that's assuming 0.5" plywood for your walls and baffle, which is thinner than I like personally, particularly for the baffle. I'm not too familiar with what kits are available so someone else will have to help with that 🙂
I agree. Just find a nice pair of second hand speakers within your budget that you like and build new cabinets for them that fit your physical needs.
Stick to similar interior volume if the original speaker is vented. You should also try to maintain the same baffle width, but as stated, it is not going to make a huge difference.
DO NOT build an MTM or WTW with a woofer above and below the tweeter if you intend to slope the cabinets, unless you are only planning on listening from one seated position.
Stick to similar interior volume if the original speaker is vented. You should also try to maintain the same baffle width, but as stated, it is not going to make a huge difference.
DO NOT build an MTM or WTW with a woofer above and below the tweeter if you intend to slope the cabinets, unless you are only planning on listening from one seated position.
I would try to maintain the original baffle size and layout. This would be the only angled part of the enclosure, as if an angled slice had been taken out to about half way down the enclosure. There is more leeway on the enclosure width than depth.
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