I have met a guy online who posts on this site. He was selling a pair of speakers that he desgined and cut out using CNC. They were built similar to the Japanese DIY horn kits. My question is if we could convince this gentalman to cut out kits for us would you guys want to buy one?
If there are enough of us the next question would be what horn design would we want to try?
If there are enough of us the next question would be what horn design would we want to try?
The most difficult part is trying to choose... so many plans & so many variables. Anyone have the Japanese horn links handy?
I've found it....
http://www.spnet.ne.jp/~hasehiro/product/backroadhorn.html
DJNUBZ, do you have a horn design in mind you would like to try for your next project? Maybe this will be the icebreaker...
Thanks
http://www.spnet.ne.jp/~hasehiro/product/backroadhorn.html
DJNUBZ, do you have a horn design in mind you would like to try for your next project? Maybe this will be the icebreaker...
Thanks
actualy their 191 and 181 look like good canidates. I wish some guys in here with more experience would jump in. I was thinking that to keep the costs down only the center peices would be cut out and the builder would supply his outer peices.
You're right, DJNUBZ; the MM-181T & MM191T looks like good candidates because the 181 is for FE168E, FE168ES, FE166E and the 191 is for FE208ES, FE208E, FE206E, etc... In terms of the pieces, the horn would not be complete without the sides. Any ideas where a drawing for the 181, 191 can be posted?
I emailed the people at that site not long ago they were very helpful but the cost to get spearkers sent here is sky high. The smallest all wood BH was $230.00 + $209.00 shipping the cool ones with the clear plexie sides are over $600.00 and thats with out speakers! I think I just might buy a router and have at it and build my own, I can mess up a few sheets of mdf for 6 bills.
land, we are talking about having the same design made for us here in the states on a CNC machine. Why would you do it yourself if you could bypass the shipping from japan?
I'd like to try one...
Great idea to get a group to go together and have the kit cut for us and I think layertone has done some interesting work already...
Has a design been settled on yet?
I registered for this site just so I could post to this thread...
Again a good idea.
Great idea to get a group to go together and have the kit cut for us and I think layertone has done some interesting work already...
Has a design been settled on yet?
I registered for this site just so I could post to this thread...
Again a good idea.
can anyone post a picture of this cabinet?
The one on the link is too pixleated (sp)
is anyone able to enlarge it? or clean it up, or post a better pic?
If possible driectly from the side.
Oh, and supply external dimensions of the case.
Thanx.
If i can see it better, and know the overall size, i can work it out and make one. If it works well then great. Woods cheap and i have a router so nothing lost if it turns out bad.
The one on the link is too pixleated (sp)
is anyone able to enlarge it? or clean it up, or post a better pic?
If possible driectly from the side.
Oh, and supply external dimensions of the case.
Thanx.
If i can see it better, and know the overall size, i can work it out and make one. If it works well then great. Woods cheap and i have a router so nothing lost if it turns out bad.
This the Austin II horn that I've been working on with Ron at the fullrangedriver forum...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Layertone,
That horn is reallt pretty! You need to get some clear 3/4-1" thick plexyglass to make the sidewalls from IMO.
That horn is reallt pretty! You need to get some clear 3/4-1" thick plexyglass to make the sidewalls from IMO.
Austin II...
Very sharp looking Layertone...... Is this a one off or could someone sign up for this experiment?
A few questions? And I'm sorry if they are kind of basic as I am trying to get up to speed here.
Do smooth radii for horns make any difference at all if the waves are wide ( I read that it doesn't matter on the web, but they look so nice.!....)
Dumb q #2...When MDF gets cut in fairly narrow width like that does it become brittle and prone to breaking?
What would the skin look like, or is that up to the creative power of each of us?
one more question..as far as resonance goes has anyone ever heard of a torsion box type baffle, it seems that might be good to decrease resonnance..... a link for the torsion box concept...
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26946,00.html
So basically we would have a front baffle with two skins and a frame between the two. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
Very sharp looking Layertone...... Is this a one off or could someone sign up for this experiment?
A few questions? And I'm sorry if they are kind of basic as I am trying to get up to speed here.
Do smooth radii for horns make any difference at all if the waves are wide ( I read that it doesn't matter on the web, but they look so nice.!....)
Dumb q #2...When MDF gets cut in fairly narrow width like that does it become brittle and prone to breaking?
What would the skin look like, or is that up to the creative power of each of us?
one more question..as far as resonance goes has anyone ever heard of a torsion box type baffle, it seems that might be good to decrease resonnance..... a link for the torsion box concept...
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26946,00.html
So basically we would have a front baffle with two skins and a frame between the two. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
afew q...
1. You use vertical supports for the MDF, why not for the first path behind the driver? It looks like it may break there?
2. You are trying to keep the weight down, why keep those back triangles solid insead of hollow?
I'm kind of interested in this project for myself. How much would a pair cost?
Thanks in advance.
1. You use vertical supports for the MDF, why not for the first path behind the driver? It looks like it may break there?
2. You are trying to keep the weight down, why keep those back triangles solid insead of hollow?
I'm kind of interested in this project for myself. How much would a pair cost?
Thanks in advance.
layertone question
R these cut with CNC router or CNC laser machine...
since these are all through cuts, it seems to me that a laser would cut the pieces faster and then perhaps more cheaply, with less dust, etc.
but I don't know about the imortant indexing holes.... a cnc routing station could probably just drill them but a laser would have to burn them ands that may not work.....
R these cut with CNC router or CNC laser machine...
since these are all through cuts, it seems to me that a laser would cut the pieces faster and then perhaps more cheaply, with less dust, etc.
but I don't know about the imortant indexing holes.... a cnc routing station could probably just drill them but a laser would have to burn them ands that may not work.....
plywood...?
It seems to me that if say every third layer were cut out of plywood the final product would have more structural integrety? MDF, MDF, Plywood, MDF,MDF, Plywood?
It seems to me that if say every third layer were cut out of plywood the final product would have more structural integrety? MDF, MDF, Plywood, MDF,MDF, Plywood?
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