Choosing amplifier for PC speakers

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I am sick of lousy sound out of computer speakers you see at stores like Best Buy. I am not talking about the $400 Logitech Z-680 speakers, I am talking about the affordable speakers. You either get tons of bass or tons of treble and hardly any bass. Or, you get both, and the sub sounds like trash. So, I decided to build my own system. I have a 4.1 surround card, so front, rears and sub, no center. I was looking through the stuff I have, and thought about using 2 3886 in bridge mode for the sub, or 1 in regular, as I haven't decided yet, and 2 LM4766, since one chip can deliver 40W/8-ohms x2. So one chip for front and one for back. the 3886 would be for the sub. I am not worrying about the speakers yet, jsut the amp. Will my configuration work well? Or is there a higher quality solution. I, as I have said in other posts, don't have year after year of experience, so I like to keep it simple. Also, cost is consitered greatly, so chips I can get samples of are the best. Thanks, Mike
 
I'm planning to to a similar setpu for myself =)

Will be a 4.1 upgradable to 5.1

Front and back will be drived by individual LM3875TF (sample received from National)

the bass will be drived using a Sanyo STK4048XI (This amp module is already done, just needing some tweaking and contruct the power supply to feed it).

I'm planning to create this monster in Dual case. One case for all the power supply unit and a other one for the amplifier section. Will propably use Nentric XLR connector to connect both unit together (for convience and quality of the connector)

The LM3875TF is still in the design stage, but I know for sure that I will use the same diode as Peter Daniel, but will use different resistor/condensator to use more available component here and as per suggestion from my oncle that know a lot about sound design. Yes the Amp will sound better using the component use by Peter, but I don't need the Ampto be THAT good...I little less will do just fine for me =)

Francois
 
I am wondering if that is really necessary? In the nearfield with <1 meter distance between you and the speakers unless you have very inefficent speakers, I really cant see the need for that much wattage.
My IGC driving a set of fostex fe-103e horns with a gain of 25x i hardly ever turn the volume up past 9:00 o clock.
ron
 
ir said:
i agree - it's nuts really.

my AWE64 soundcard has built in 4W amps, they're sufficient to drive 2x 10in woofers, 2x6in mids and 2 1in tweeters to VERY respectable volumes

speakers


=) yes you AWE64 have a 4w build-in but it not the very best in sound quality =)

My setup might sound overkill but that the chip I have at hand so why not use it? It will only sound better if I don't need to push them no. I know I'm wasting potentional but he, let have some fun fun building it =)
 
yeah, i built a 2x20W chip amp, hooked up to the computer and it sounds frikken brilliant

amp

i9 was thinking of doing the whole surround thing too, why not, only needs 3 chips (2x stereo + 1 mono) and a sub of course
 
The starting base of the whole GC movement was based on the gaincard simplicity.Less is more.Even though i am still planning a tube buffer (which is slightly more complex and adds parts)If more power is required i would be looking at discreet with maybe mosfets.
I have been in this hobby for over 30 years and the best combo i have found (for me anyway) is a smaller more efficent amp with highly efficent(low Qts) speakers.
ron
 
I never really got much of a responce about my system. Will it provide decent sound? What about bass? I would like clear and powerful bass. Currently I have the 3-piece logitech system. Sounds good, but the 2-inch 6-watt speakers and 20-watt 8-inch sub don't sound that great. Can I power the entire system off of one supply and 1 X-former?

Thanks for the advice, Mike
 
If you are using the setup for PC speakers, and even if not, consider using subwoofers that are more efficient.

Consider that when bridging you gain an extra 3db in potential volume. If you choose a subwoofer with an extra 3 db in efficiency, you wouldn't have to bridge. Here's another thought, choose a bandpass subwoofer design that provides gain 6 db can easily be achieved with the right driver.

The other way to make up for bridging is to use two drivers and two amps. With this method, you actually gain efficiency through acoustic coupling as well as raise the max db achievable!

The latter is good as an upgrade route. Why? You build six low power channels now into one amp. When you want to upgrade, put in a plate amp capable of driving the two woofers in parallel and then get a 6.1 card. Now you're rocking!
 
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