Right now the closest contender is the Peerless 811647 HDT 100 horn loaded dome tweeter. http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/811647.pdf
It is a good product for the low price, but it may or may not break if the DIY party speakers were played to 120Db, which corresponds to 100W system power. This is the maximum rated power for the Peerless, which is basically a tricked up hi-fi dome tweeter. How do ordinary dome tweeters hold up near maximum rated continuous system power?
The plus for the Peerless is that it is an established brand so it cant sound bad (if not good), and soft dome tweeters have smoother response and inoffensive (im guessing). At least compared to a cheap no name titanium compression driver at the electronics shop.
Any other solutions I may not have thought yet (DIY or ready made)?
It is a good product for the low price, but it may or may not break if the DIY party speakers were played to 120Db, which corresponds to 100W system power. This is the maximum rated power for the Peerless, which is basically a tricked up hi-fi dome tweeter. How do ordinary dome tweeters hold up near maximum rated continuous system power?
The plus for the Peerless is that it is an established brand so it cant sound bad (if not good), and soft dome tweeters have smoother response and inoffensive (im guessing). At least compared to a cheap no name titanium compression driver at the electronics shop.
Any other solutions I may not have thought yet (DIY or ready made)?
Providing you've got clean power up to and beyond 100W, so your not ever feeding a clipped signal, then it should be fine. The crossover will limit the power effectively going to the tweeter, where the woofer may be using 100W the content above 2.5khz may only require an average of 10W-20W, peaks may be of 100W but these arn't an issue here 🙂
The baffle step will also make the tweeter louder than the woofers in effect, by 6db, then the tweter requires only 1/4 of the power because of this alone. Unless your woofer is 106db efficient and you won't be using a pad on the tweeter?
The baffle step will also make the tweeter louder than the woofers in effect, by 6db, then the tweter requires only 1/4 of the power because of this alone. Unless your woofer is 106db efficient and you won't be using a pad on the tweeter?
Surely not wanting 120dB of treble power!? I presumed the question meant an SPL of 120db overall and would the tweeter cope in such an application which I believe it would. 120dB of treble, ouch indeed 😱
Dr.EM said:
The speaker in my head would be 70cm wide dipole(18" woofer), and its shoved near a wall. So I don't think i need baffle step compensation, I'm not aiming for perfection. Of course, I was referring to 120Db system.
Im not sure if you are aware, but the 100W rating already takes assumes the tweeter is crossovered. The tweeter is probably 15-20W by itself. Is it still fine? Has anyone run 100W through their 2 way hi-fi systems and not a hitch?
They get very expensive, if from a trusted/quality brand. Otherwise a cheap unknown compression driver from the local electronics chain (Altronics).RobWells said:
Hi ,
I am not sure for the 120 dB, it is really a dangerous level
Anyway have you thinked to HI-VI RT2 PRO ( planar)? 😀
Cheers,,
Paolo
I am not sure for the 120 dB, it is really a dangerous level
Anyway have you thinked to HI-VI RT2 PRO ( planar)? 😀
Cheers,,
Paolo
With the existence of compression drivers, it'd be absolutely ridiculous to even consider "hi-fi" tweeters for this design IMO. You probably think they don't sound as good because you've never heard one implemented correctly. Most diffraction horns sound awful IMO, and this is pretty much always how they're used in high output professional loudspeaker systems. If used correctly in a design for personal use, they can easily beat the pants off any little inefficient tweeter toys out there in every aspect. Whenever you're interested in coming up with any loudspeaker system.. instead of using a compression driver because you think you have to, try to base the design on the fact that you WILL use a compression driver, always. It works!.. IF done correctly, which is extremely critical.
I'm sorry ,I have not tried it. Just read the Hi-vi datasheet and simulated in my x-over simulator.
From the data looks interesting IMO and good price 😀
Cheers,
Paolo
From the data looks interesting IMO and good price 😀
Cheers,
Paolo
Loud tweeter!
THe old Motorola KSN 1177 was a dual piezo element design I used to use. It was 100 db per watt.
Mark
THe old Motorola KSN 1177 was a dual piezo element design I used to use. It was 100 db per watt.
Mark
brucemck2 said:
lol that is $450USD, probably $800AUD if its sold here in Australia. The Peerless would be 1/20th the price of that thing.
Besides the Peerless, I have a few cheap chinese made ebay compression drivers in mind. driver #1 driver #2
I'm hoping they are as good as Eminence's no-frills offerings; since some Eminences are imported from China I beleive (their ASD1001 compression driver is).
Sadly the particular hi-Vi is not sold here, and even then because of its wide horizontal dispersion; not a good match for the dispersion pattern of the rest of the speaker.
Cal Weldon said:
That Cal, he's a maniac!!
Hey T.K. thanks for posting that tweeter, I'd never seen it before. Might have to give it a listen someday.
tech.knockout said:
Hi tech, you can always ruotate it by 90 degrees !
Normally I do not buy any driver in my country because they are outrageous pricing 😡 I prefer purchase at solen.ca and pay shipment and tax , everytime I save money the same 😀
Cheers,
Paolo
tech.knockout said:
Too bad that you are in Aus since I could have gotten you some very good compression drivers from B&C for not much more than those Chinese knock-offs. I never understood why drivers are so expensive in AUS. Those Chinese drivers are like $US17 in China.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
eminence
Tested by K&T low thd was the same quality as others how are 10 times more expensive.
Attachments
If price were not an issue, what would you consider the one or two or three "best" sounding alternatives that meet the 102db efficiency test?
In my case I'd be mating them to two (or four) high efficiency PHL or AE drivers in the 6.5" (or so) size range.
Would want to cross around 2khz
In my case I'd be mating them to two (or four) high efficiency PHL or AE drivers in the 6.5" (or so) size range.
Would want to cross around 2khz
- Status
- Not open for further replies.