Guys, anyone out there had success with buying a cheap eBay amp? I bought this one to have a go, but can't see what the recommended operating PSU and current is. Look forward to hearing the experience from the masses
1Pc TPA3116 2.1 100W+2*50W Bluetooth 4.0 Class D Power Digital Amplifier Board | eBay
Honestly I have used a class d and t Dayton Audio onrs previously and have been happy but this is the eBay no name purchase I have made..
1Pc TPA3116 2.1 100W+2*50W Bluetooth 4.0 Class D Power Digital Amplifier Board | eBay
Honestly I have used a class d and t Dayton Audio onrs previously and have been happy but this is the eBay no name purchase I have made..
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Cheap Ebay amps almost certainly are produced in the fast growing economy of the east. I have good experiences seen in the light of the very attractive price.
Use 19V-24V supply. 4 or 8 Ohm speakers?
Many use "laptop brick adapters" with good results. Use 10000uF power line decoupling between the power adapter and the amplifier board (close to the amplifier board supply terminals).
Use 19V-24V supply. 4 or 8 Ohm speakers?
Many use "laptop brick adapters" with good results. Use 10000uF power line decoupling between the power adapter and the amplifier board (close to the amplifier board supply terminals).
Thanks that is promising. I have a few hp bricks lying around to salvage.
I have a few 8 ohm drivers and a sub also lying around, but what I was thinking id do is retro fit an old cigar box (or make something) and have something I can take around the house to plug and play
Do not go higher then 20V as it has a 25V cap.
I have 2 of these boards, and can really recommend them even thought I had to replace the decoupling cap on 1 boards after a few months. No need for extra input caps. The switchable 125hz high pass for the tops and variable low pass for the sub are great extra's
There is a version of this board with bluetooth, but I would get a separate bluetooh reciever as there are many bluetooth amps which are noisy because of a poor implementation.
I have 2 of these boards, and can really recommend them even thought I had to replace the decoupling cap on 1 boards after a few months. No need for extra input caps. The switchable 125hz high pass for the tops and variable low pass for the sub are great extra's
There is a version of this board with bluetooth, but I would get a separate bluetooh reciever as there are many bluetooth amps which are noisy because of a poor implementation.
Calculate the total power in all speakers and add some 20% for amplifier losses when you estimate the power capacity of the power supply.
Damn, had a look at those ones in the link, drivers impedance only goes up to 5ohms 🙁 I have 8ohm drivers, otherwise I would have bought that one in a heartbeat. I need another board to power some desktop speakers which I'm rebuilding a box for. Does RMS output limit bass at all? I ask this as I have a set of TL speakers powered by the DTA2 amp on a 12v PS (15w per channel @ 4ohms) and a boom box running off the DT KAB 230v3 which is 30w on a 19v PS. They have identical drivers with the only other difference being I sized the box for the boom box. Side by side the boom box clearly has that lower bass note and performs better at a similar volume level. The question is can the difference in power and amp be the issue of the fact that one set is clearly sized and tuned for the lower frequency (dunno about the TL).
If there isn't really a difference I'll continue to use the DTA 2 board, if there is I'll look at upgrading. I can't really swap and test the boards on the different setups as they are quite compact units and hot glued in (and my massive hands can't fit in the small openings that the drivers have) also the boxes are all glued up
3rutu5, the amp in that link is based around the TPA3116 so it will be able to handle your 8ohm speakers, it may just be that the output filters are not optimised for that impedance. That means you might get a slightly non linear frequency response but this will not be dramatic.
A larger enclosure resonates at a lower frequency, adding more power to a smaller enclosure will not extend the frequency response lower. It will increase the total sound pressure level it can achieve, assuming it is not hitting the maximum excursion of the drivers. Download WinISD and learn to simulate it, you'll learn lots!
A larger enclosure resonates at a lower frequency, adding more power to a smaller enclosure will not extend the frequency response lower. It will increase the total sound pressure level it can achieve, assuming it is not hitting the maximum excursion of the drivers. Download WinISD and learn to simulate it, you'll learn lots!
Brilliant, I've actually sized the last two in WiniSD and still finding my way but hit the mark with the boom box. I was just making sure that there wouldnt be any noticable difference between the PS/inputs. I've sized this enclosure to 59Hz with some 3.5" drivers so keen to finish it off 🙂
Chinese stuff is often made down to a price and the cheapest of components are used. Many components are cheap fakes.
I prefer to pay a little more and buy from a local reputable dealer.
Al commercial stuff is made cheap and almost everything is made by our chinese fellow financial slaves. That is de commercial / Pharaonic= Aristocrat= Templar= Mason world we live in.
Stuff made in the UK by reputable manufacturers tends to use genuine components.
I bought some Chinese transistors off ebay.
Lasted 10 minutes until i unplugged my soldering iron !
The glitch on the mains blew them up.
So I replaced them with genuine parts from RS Components and no matter how hard I tried with mains noise I couldnt blow them up.
Buy cheap, buy twice.
It is mostly commerce itself which spends lot of money to make us believe that. (i.e. that we need the most expensive speakers, speaker-cables, cars, houses, etc)
Most important of all is making money for their shareholders, quality comes next. Some stuff here is designed and/or engineered in Holland, but then produced in china.
// cheap means inexpensive, but can also mean worthless, but something can't be both. In dutch it just mean inexpensive, as it is litteraly translates to good-buy = goed-koop
I'm using the word cheap as inexpensive.
This is something like professional means (or used to mean) you have to pay for it. But is doesn't say anything about quality, commerce wants use to beLIEve that. 🙂
I'd rather go to a knowledgeable hobbyist (someone who works (acts) out of passion) then to a professional.
Most important of all is making money for their shareholders, quality comes next. Some stuff here is designed and/or engineered in Holland, but then produced in china.
// cheap means inexpensive, but can also mean worthless, but something can't be both. In dutch it just mean inexpensive, as it is litteraly translates to good-buy = goed-koop
I'm using the word cheap as inexpensive.
This is something like professional means (or used to mean) you have to pay for it. But is doesn't say anything about quality, commerce wants use to beLIEve that. 🙂
I'd rather go to a knowledgeable hobbyist (someone who works (acts) out of passion) then to a professional.
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Certainly high price tag and high quality to not relate automatically. But ultra low prize chinese products are in most cases too cheap to enable quality. Did you never receive fake parts or very poor designed parts from AliBaba et al?
And I have seen very good amateurs and professionals as well as very bad ones. So what, such simplifications never are helpful.
And I have seen very good amateurs and professionals as well as very bad ones. So what, such simplifications never are helpful.
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