Hello, I would like to build a center speaker as a part of a surround sound system with two/four x 4" fullrange drivers. No tweeters and hence no crossover will be used. The drivers need to sit horizontally . Any tips for the distance between the two drivers? Will a sideways tilt enhance off axis seating experience? Will there be benefits if isolated enclosure is provided for each driver vs all the drivers sharing the enclosure volume? Thanks in advance!
4" full range drivers will always cause lobing at higher frequencies even when mounted touching each other. This problem becomes worse and at a lower frequency when the drivers are spaced.
Centre channel should have 1 FR driver unless you are doing a 1.5 way system.
dave
dave
Thank you for your replies. What is the real life effect of lobing? So ultimately what is the solution to achieve this? It's going to be same sound in all the 2/4 speakers so I am only looking at power handling and not imaging. Yes, impact on tonal quality will matter. Thanks!
Playing an HF test tone, for example, you would hear the level rising and lowering as you listened at different angles to two or more drivers reproducing frequencies higher than they really should be. Put another way, the higher frequency response ('tonal quality') heard at different positions in a row of seats facing the speaker will vary. 1/2 wavelength is a rule of thumb for multiple driver spacing, giving a maximum crossover frequency of no more than about 2kHz for 100mm drivers touching. You would enjoy better consistency with multiple drivers crossed over to a single tweeter.
After 30 years, after kids raised, work, etc. I'm getting back into some basic speaker builds. I need a good inexpensive center channel for TV, video, as my hearing is going to hell, need to watch movies, and some music without my wife upset with load volume.
I run a pair of Dynaudio 17W75 with D28 tweeter. in a .25 cf sealed enclosure from Madisound. (yes, I'm getting old).
A 4 cf subwoofer cabinet is being redone to house a 12" subwoofer, driven by a Hafler DH200 amp.
I'm considering the Dayton Audio 4" Reference RS-100/8, full range wired in parallel in a horizontal MTM configuration, with a Peerless or Vifa 3/4" dome tweeter, sealed box, crossover at 3500 Hz/ 12 db per octave. in 3/4" MDF cabinets. braced and damped. This setup should match sensitivity of my main speakers.
Any suggestions for refinement, upgrades?
I run a pair of Dynaudio 17W75 with D28 tweeter. in a .25 cf sealed enclosure from Madisound. (yes, I'm getting old).
A 4 cf subwoofer cabinet is being redone to house a 12" subwoofer, driven by a Hafler DH200 amp.
I'm considering the Dayton Audio 4" Reference RS-100/8, full range wired in parallel in a horizontal MTM configuration, with a Peerless or Vifa 3/4" dome tweeter, sealed box, crossover at 3500 Hz/ 12 db per octave. in 3/4" MDF cabinets. braced and damped. This setup should match sensitivity of my main speakers.
Any suggestions for refinement, upgrades?
A really sucky configuration. Developed by the marketing department. RS100 might get ruined by a tweeter.
dave
Okay.
What is a good suggestion for a center channel speaker, 89 db efficiency in a 14x16 room, driven with 60W Rms Yamaha), DIY BUILT, under $100 . I’m on a budget.
What is a good suggestion for a center channel speaker, 89 db efficiency in a 14x16 room, driven with 60W Rms Yamaha), DIY BUILT, under $100 . I’m on a budget.
The Faital 4FE32, 8 Ohms.
91dB, and half your budget.
Faital makes very good drivers.
If you want a 8" driver for more oomph, SBA SB20FRPC30-8, 92dB, has a long thread about it in here and people really like it. Still well under your budget at about $60. Sealed in a 16~20 liters box, should be easy enough to place under the screen.
91dB, and half your budget.
Faital makes very good drivers.
If you want a 8" driver for more oomph, SBA SB20FRPC30-8, 92dB, has a long thread about it in here and people really like it. Still well under your budget at about $60. Sealed in a 16~20 liters box, should be easy enough to place under the screen.
Haven’t eard it, but the 3” is quite good.
Like most paper cones it benefits from a light coat of puizzlekoat.
dave
Another budget option would be KEF Q and HTS series coaxial drivers - the smaller speaker pairs can be had cheaply second hand and you end up with a spare driver; build your enclosure for one and keep as a spare of sell the other one!
At £22GBP the 4" is ridiculously good - I tried a pair in 4 foot square open baffles and whilst obviously lacking bass they were far better than they aught to be!
An MTM center channel is horrible if you move as you watch the movie or if you are sitting off axis. I would use a full range and send most of the bass to the subwoofer. if you need more bass for realistic car door slams then use three 4" with the middle driver running full range and the other two with a filter from 300-500hz up. I've seen some interesting five 3" driver center channel systems with the drivers in a concave baffle. But before you mess with that I'd recommend making a good full range center channel.
Small coaxial like a Dayton CX120 and a 8~10" woofer down or up firing for the lows(keep the enclosure slim) something like a Dayton Audio MB1025-8 10" in about a 1cf ported box
Current prices at PE under $100, the probably want to use a metal core inductor for the high pass on the woofer xover to keep cost down.
Current prices at PE under $100, the probably want to use a metal core inductor for the high pass on the woofer xover to keep cost down.
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