So, I'm kind of stuck with my Ditton 332 and 442 trying to remove the tweeters.
They are completely stuck to the cabinet! Many of you have removed drivers form the Dittons, what's my best option?
Tried to remove the mid-range and push the tweeter out, but the mid-range drivers are also firmly stuck to the cabinet.
Any suggestion is more than welcome! 🙂
They are completely stuck to the cabinet! Many of you have removed drivers form the Dittons, what's my best option?
Tried to remove the mid-range and push the tweeter out, but the mid-range drivers are also firmly stuck to the cabinet.
Any suggestion is more than welcome! 🙂
Can't you pursuade the bass driver to move?
I think the driver sealing gaskets were foam, which may have gone sticky and glue like by now.
Getting in behind and pushing sounds the way to go - if you can remove the bass driver which, being heavier, should cooperate.
I think the driver sealing gaskets were foam, which may have gone sticky and glue like by now.
Getting in behind and pushing sounds the way to go - if you can remove the bass driver which, being heavier, should cooperate.
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Is it possible to insert the hook end of a small tool - I'd say a pick, but doubt that's substantial enough so you might have to fabricate something - through the screw holes and, working sequentially, work on prying the tweeter out? (You might want to use some sort of a physical buffer between the tool and the screw hole so as not to mar the tweeter.) I bought the complete set of drivers for the 442 of eBay some time ago so it obviously can be done.
Another way is to find a bolt of a suitable diameter which will thread itself into one of the tweeter surround mounting holes.
The bolt, when pulled upon, may provide you with enough purchase to break the gasket seal.
The bolt, when pulled upon, may provide you with enough purchase to break the gasket seal.
Thank you guys! I managed to pry out the tweeter, and later on the bass as well. Like we all suspected the seal gasket had turn to a sticky mess.
Now I just need to recap the crossover!
Now I just need to recap the crossover!
If the crossover incorporates bipolar electrolytic capacitors, I recommend you replace them with new, fresh electrolytic ones - and not plastic film types.
Doing so helps ensure that the speakers return to sounding as they were originally intended to sound.
However, you may wish to experiment!
Doing so helps ensure that the speakers return to sounding as they were originally intended to sound.
However, you may wish to experiment!
You must mean the white receptacle on the left.
I'm not familiar with it. It looks like the wires may have been terminated in metal 'spades' which have been slid into the slots in the receptacle from the right. They may have then locked in position, so can't be slid back out. Try to do so and see wot's wot.
P.S. I would replace those unreliable ELCAP NP electrolytics with modern equivalents. You may not find the exact equivalent values, but if you can stay within plus or minus 10% of each original value you will be OK.
List the microfarad values required if you need advice on replacements.
I'm not familiar with it. It looks like the wires may have been terminated in metal 'spades' which have been slid into the slots in the receptacle from the right. They may have then locked in position, so can't be slid back out. Try to do so and see wot's wot.
P.S. I would replace those unreliable ELCAP NP electrolytics with modern equivalents. You may not find the exact equivalent values, but if you can stay within plus or minus 10% of each original value you will be OK.
List the microfarad values required if you need advice on replacements.