I have a pair of magi 3.7i and would like to convert the crossover from serial to parallel.
So I can bi-amp them and play around with better parts.
From the schematic it looks like, and I am guessing š
12 db on the tweeter
6 db band pass on the midrange
6 db on the woofer
Am I right? I have never worked with a serial filter before and it looks wired to me
So I can bi-amp them and play around with better parts.
From the schematic it looks like, and I am guessing š
12 db on the tweeter
6 db band pass on the midrange
6 db on the woofer
Am I right? I have never worked with a serial filter before and it looks wired to me
If
A. The impedance of the tweeter and its series resistor and fuse were resistive and equal to the impedance of the mid loudspeaker and its series resistor and fuse
B. sqrt(L2/C2) were equal to this impedance
C. The impedance of the woofer were also equal to this impedance
D. sqrt(L1/C1) were also equal to this impedance
then it would be fairly straightforward to convert it to a parallel filter. L1 and C1 would then be a first-order filter, and so would L2 and C2. The woofer would then effectively be driven from a simple first-order low-pass. The mid loudspeaker would be driven from a cascade of a first-order high-pass and a first-order low-pass, and the tweeter from two first-order high-pass filters.
Unfortunately these conditions are not met, particularly not by the 8 ohm midrange loudspeaker. If it were a 4 ohm loudspeaker like its colleagues, you could draw a dual network and scale its impedance to at least get close to a parallel equivalent.
A. The impedance of the tweeter and its series resistor and fuse were resistive and equal to the impedance of the mid loudspeaker and its series resistor and fuse
B. sqrt(L2/C2) were equal to this impedance
C. The impedance of the woofer were also equal to this impedance
D. sqrt(L1/C1) were also equal to this impedance
then it would be fairly straightforward to convert it to a parallel filter. L1 and C1 would then be a first-order filter, and so would L2 and C2. The woofer would then effectively be driven from a simple first-order low-pass. The mid loudspeaker would be driven from a cascade of a first-order high-pass and a first-order low-pass, and the tweeter from two first-order high-pass filters.
Unfortunately these conditions are not met, particularly not by the 8 ohm midrange loudspeaker. If it were a 4 ohm loudspeaker like its colleagues, you could draw a dual network and scale its impedance to at least get close to a parallel equivalent.
The way it is drawn is a bit weird, but it is a fairly simple first order series XO. A shunt cap rolls off the lows, shunt inductor creates a HP.
They can be tir-amped. Or one could use the passive series up top (lose the shunt C) and those 2 modules bi-amped. As soon as you do it is no longer series.
Someone said the same thing about Halcyon, but i have aclient who did just that after i showed him how,
dave
They can be tir-amped. Or one could use the passive series up top (lose the shunt C) and those 2 modules bi-amped. As soon as you do it is no longer series.
Someone said the same thing about Halcyon, but i have aclient who did just that after i showed him how,
dave
How do you make the high pass for the mid loudspeaker?
When I take the dual network, redraw it a bit and scale the impedances such that the woofer becomes 4.6 ohm again, I get this circuit. It's useless, because the impedance of the midrange loudspeaker is all wrong.
When I take the dual network, redraw it a bit and scale the impedances such that the woofer becomes 4.6 ohm again, I get this circuit. It's useless, because the impedance of the midrange loudspeaker is all wrong.
For reference, these are generic series 2 and 3 way XOs. The OPs, if you ignore the Rs and the fuses (are they really needed), should look like th eone on the right.
The shunt L on the mid is its LP, the cap the HP.
dave
The shunt L on the mid is its LP, the cap the HP.
dave
There are two methods that come to mind here, and both involve measuring the driver impedances (for different reasons) ..if you don't already have that information.
The gain with biamping is questionable. Changing the crossover without the nessecary means and knowledge leads to losses. You could play with the parts or go fully active, the latter only after gaining knowledge on how to measure.
Thanks everybody š
It looks like I have to measure each section and come up with a new filter for it.
But to get started I will remove the fuses and resistor bridges and add some nice binding posts.
It looks like I have to measure each section and come up with a new filter for it.
But to get started I will remove the fuses and resistor bridges and add some nice binding posts.