I have a pair of MX50se Amp kits. My not so well thought out plan was to build an Amplifier for my Motorcycle. Now that I got a pile of parts I realize I might be over my head. Can someone help me with a list of the other components I would need to make this work. I have a pair of power supplies 63V2200UF*8 for the kits. I also have a dual channel Mute delay speaker protection kit for it. Is there anything I am over looking? I have been looking for some written information but not having much luck. I've read and watched a bunch of videos and articles on this site and youtube. Not much help so far. Thanks in advance.
How about power supplies? Where will you get the 30V or so dual supply? I think a class d bridged output amp board would be more suitable in this case?
No.
Vehicles are a single dc supply.
Most kit amps (like yours) require split power supplies of much higher voltage.
Since this is a 'mobile' application.
You need to think of this as an entire system.
Not just one part.
What are you using for a source ?
What are you using for speakers ?
Do you want or have 2 speakers or 4 ?
Where will you mount the speakers ?
Where will you mount the amplifier ?
Will it be used as your riding or when your stopped somewhere ?
Is your bike 12v, 6v, alternator and battery or generator/magneto ?
Personally for a bike I think you would get far better enjoyment from helmet mounted transducers (really small speakers like headphones).
Once you've worked out some of these questions, you'll be better of posting in the car audio forum.
Vehicles are a single dc supply.
Most kit amps (like yours) require split power supplies of much higher voltage.
Since this is a 'mobile' application.
You need to think of this as an entire system.
Not just one part.
What are you using for a source ?
What are you using for speakers ?
Do you want or have 2 speakers or 4 ?
Where will you mount the speakers ?
Where will you mount the amplifier ?
Will it be used as your riding or when your stopped somewhere ?
Is your bike 12v, 6v, alternator and battery or generator/magneto ?
Personally for a bike I think you would get far better enjoyment from helmet mounted transducers (really small speakers like headphones).
Once you've worked out some of these questions, you'll be better of posting in the car audio forum.
My bike is 12v has an Alternator. It has a Radio and 4 speakers already just want more sound. It is a Harley Eleectrglide. The power supplies are kits like the amps. Like I said I am really new to this. I went to College years ago for Industrial electronics/ electricity. Though I have never had a job where I used it. If it turns out I can't use these for 12v dc I will figure out another use for them. I figure I'll never learn without asking questions.
Thus is the description of the power supplies I have. Power supply board PSU 63V2200UF*8 good for L25D L15D MX50 L12 L20
Thus is the description of the power supplies I have. Power supply board PSU 63V2200UF*8 good for L25D L15D MX50 L12 L20
Nearly all modern 12V car amplifiers incorporate a switched mode power supply to take the 12V up to more usual amplifier supplies.
For you to use this amplifier you will need an appropriate power supply.
For you to use this amplifier you will need an appropriate power supply.
You need a power supply for your amp, this DC to DC converter circuit is suitable from a 12V supply.
CAR DC to DC converter circuit, output +/- 27V to +/-50V
CAR DC to DC converter circuit, output +/- 27V to +/-50V
I am having trouble with the forum or my internet service. I can't reply it keeps telling me I'm not authorized. I'll try again later today. Thank you
I have a XL6019 step up boost module. 12v input to 35v output. I was hoping that would be enough.is it possible to stack the modules?I am assuming I will need very large heat sink's for this project.if it wont work for my project I can figure out a use for it. I do appreciate all the replies
Some amp kits will take a single supply. these usually have a terminal labeled "+" and "-". They also have a capacitor 1000 uf to 4700 uf in series with the speaker. I like these, they don't blow up your speaker with DC if a solder joint pops loose.
Other amp kits require a dual supply. Terminal strip labeled "+" "-" and "gnd". It is best to use these projects with a follow up DC detector and disconnect, to protect your speakers. On car speakers, probably not a problem. My woofer costs double what my amp did.
If the 12 to 35 switcher supplies will stack, the output ground will not have continuity to the input ground.
I usually protect my amps from reproducing AM sports talk radio, CB 1000 watters that drive by, etc. this takes at least 63 pf ceramic or mica cap across the input, inside a metal box. The amp might have this, but the cheapest ones that come up first on ali/amazon/ebay don't. The output has to go through a .7 mH coil parallel a 10 ohm 3 W resistor, located near the output so the wire to the coil from the speaker jack doesn't act as a transmitting antenna. .7 mH coil is 14 turns solid core wire (I use 16 ga for speakers at 75 W) wound around a 3/8" dowel or AA battery. If solid core you can remove the battery, if stranded wire you need to glue it together to maintain the shape.
I usually protect the power supply from 1000 v spikes on the AC line with a MOS voltage suppressor, after the fuse. These are rated 250 to 600 vac, in 7 joule (cheap & useless) to 30 joule (substantial). Since you don't have AC wires running 100 miles to the generator, the risk is less. But if a motor vehicle is jump started big transients can occur when the starter shuts off.
Dual banana speaker jacks are handy at the edge of the box instead of running wires through a rubber donut and screwing inside. A volume pot is usually nice, dual 10000 ohm audio taper is traditional. Shaft ones leak rain in less.
You can find heat sinks 12x30x120 mm suitable for two TO247/263 transistors in dead LED TV's. The switching part doesn't blow up, the power supply does usually. Or you can buy from heatsinksUSA in vendor forum below, or from a parts house like digikey, newark, mouser, arrow. .75 degC/w is usually okay for 30 to 120 W amps. Buy heat sink compound to put under the transistors with mica insulators. If you can find the silicon heat sink wafers (newark doesn't carry them usually) they don't need heat sink compound.
It is elegant to mount the heatsink fins outside the steel box, with the transistors inside protected from the rain. You have to be able to cut a square hole, I use a sabre saw or a Stanley carbide blade in a hacksaw. A rubber gasket or silicon seal (bathroom & kitchen is the good stuff) keeps rain from leaking in. A drain hole on the bottom of the box is useful to let out condensate. make sure splash won't hit it and let rain in.
Have fun.
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I'm going to save sam a world of pain.
Don't bother.
To get twice the perceived volume you need four times the power.
At best the original speakers will be distorted and un-listenable.
At worst they won't survive long before burning out.
Other things to consider for your skill set.
Were and how will you mount the amp.
Locate and cut the speaker wires from the headunit and run new ones to the amplifier.
Install and run a power wire (with fuse) from the battery to the amp.
Being a bike you will also need to run a negative cable.
Find some sort of 'accessory' (switched) feed wire from the headunit so the amp turns on and off with the headunit.
Otherwise you will drain the battery regularly.
Run new speaker wires from the amp to the speakers.
Find and fit new speakers with higher power handling in the factory locations.
Sorry to be a downer, but I've done this on several bikes (mostly goldwings) for friends and it's not a job for a beginner.
This is all ignoring that the amp kits you have are completely unsuitable.
You need a dc converter to not only raise the voltage but to also give you a split power supply (pos - neg - gnd).
Then you need decent heatsinks (with airflow so they don't over heat) for the amp modules.
Then some way of having the whole lot turn on/off with the headunit or have endless flat batteries.
These amps will be line level input.
Do you have line level outputs on the bikes headunit. i doubt it.
Whats the saying.
If I was going there I wouldn't start from here.
Don't bother.
To get twice the perceived volume you need four times the power.
At best the original speakers will be distorted and un-listenable.
At worst they won't survive long before burning out.
Other things to consider for your skill set.
Were and how will you mount the amp.
Locate and cut the speaker wires from the headunit and run new ones to the amplifier.
Install and run a power wire (with fuse) from the battery to the amp.
Being a bike you will also need to run a negative cable.
Find some sort of 'accessory' (switched) feed wire from the headunit so the amp turns on and off with the headunit.
Otherwise you will drain the battery regularly.
Run new speaker wires from the amp to the speakers.
Find and fit new speakers with higher power handling in the factory locations.
Sorry to be a downer, but I've done this on several bikes (mostly goldwings) for friends and it's not a job for a beginner.
This is all ignoring that the amp kits you have are completely unsuitable.
You need a dc converter to not only raise the voltage but to also give you a split power supply (pos - neg - gnd).
Then you need decent heatsinks (with airflow so they don't over heat) for the amp modules.
Then some way of having the whole lot turn on/off with the headunit or have endless flat batteries.
These amps will be line level input.
Do you have line level outputs on the bikes headunit. i doubt it.
Whats the saying.
If I was going there I wouldn't start from here.
Not necessarily so, that depends on the amplifier:
It is unlikely that you are looking at a Class A amplifier, however, these are very inefficient and do require huge heatsinks.
A Class A/AB amplifier would require only a modest heatsink depending on the output power.
A Class D or similar digital amplifier would only require a mediocre heatsink again depending on the power of the amplifier.
HOWEVER, what you call a huge heatsink might differ from what I call a large heatsink. This is what I would call a fairly large heatsink. In my example, that is a 25W Class A amplifier module.
The amplifier should be supplied with details of the power supply required.
It is not a wise idea to stack power supplies unless you know what you are doing.
If the amplifier requires +/- 35V at 1A then it is prudent to allow a margin of headroom above this (NOT VOLTAGE). Commercial designs sail as close to the wind as they can for cost reasons. In a DIY design you can be a bit more lenient. Allowing 50% - 100% extra current capability will always add reliability to the power supply. In this example you could aim for +/- 35V (NOTE THE VOLTAGE IS THE SAME) but with 2A capability.
One topic that has only been brushed on so far is the current requirements of this set-up.
Despite many outrageous claims, the power for the speakers must come from the battery/alternator. If we assume that you are running a Class D amplifier with an SMPS power supply we can assume that the set-up will be about 80% efficient.
If you have a 200W amplifier, that will require approximately 250W from the electrical system on your bike. At 12V that is 21A. Bike electrics are not designed to deliver that sort of continuous current. Even car owners have to consider the electrical system of their vehicles.
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I've built a few high end systems in cars using store bought amps and caps. Dual high output Alternators. I've repaired a few amps. I am new to building from kits as such. I will never learn if I don't try it's not really a money issue I can go buy a system it's more of something I want to do. Thanks for the replies. I have learned a little more than I knew before I posted. I will figure things out. Will take pics as I go and post an after pic. Thanks