is it that simple?
I hooked it up that way with my amplifier and it seems to work just fine.
Checked by turning left and right channels down to 0 and seen if it still played audio from the speaker.
The static is quadrupled though. is that most likely normal since its possible the amp was never intended to be designed with being bridged in mind?
only running one speaker from it not two.
so theoretically it's still seeing two speakers?
Could I do something like this to make it act as a 2.1 system?
With some bipolar caps going to left+right speakers in series to act as a filter so only the subwoofer gets the low frequencies?
Could this be damaging to the amplifier?
It definitally seems to move the speaker more at low frequencies than it did before. dont have to turn the volume up as much but problem is at medium bass frequencies. 20hz to 100hz.. it moves less.. too low of impedance?
I hooked it up that way with my amplifier and it seems to work just fine.
Checked by turning left and right channels down to 0 and seen if it still played audio from the speaker.
The static is quadrupled though. is that most likely normal since its possible the amp was never intended to be designed with being bridged in mind?
only running one speaker from it not two.
so theoretically it's still seeing two speakers?
Could I do something like this to make it act as a 2.1 system?
With some bipolar caps going to left+right speakers in series to act as a filter so only the subwoofer gets the low frequencies?
Could this be damaging to the amplifier?
It definitally seems to move the speaker more at low frequencies than it did before. dont have to turn the volume up as much but problem is at medium bass frequencies. 20hz to 100hz.. it moves less.. too low of impedance?
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If this is a 'normal' amp with the two outputs between a 'hot' and a ground, the two grounds are connected internally.
So if you connect a speaker between left gnd and right hot, it is the same as right gnd and right hot. You are listening to the right channel only.
Jan
So if you connect a speaker between left gnd and right hot, it is the same as right gnd and right hot. You are listening to the right channel only.
Jan
No i am not listening to the right channel only.
because why would i hear audio when i mute the right channel. un mute it. then mute the left channel.
and still hear music when either one is muted?? it cant play sound from empty space so it has to be coming from both at the same time. as long as either both channels are NOT muted I can still hear sound and music coming from the left AND right channel at the same time.
the negatives are not tied together (the amp looks like its cloned on each side. seperate inductors for left and right channel. on its own half of the board. there is two of everything. one thing mirrors the other on the other half of the board even the capacitors.
i mute the left channel. audio still plays. so i unmute it.
then i mute the right channel. audio STILL plays. so therefore it must be playing both channels at the same time.. it gets louder when both channels are at 100%
i think it would be much better to get an inverting input and invert one of the channels then hook the speaker to +R and +L then it would be optimally bridged without any feedback loops or oscillation
some really cheap crappy amplifiers can just have the left and right channel outputs tied together to become mono (RARELY. many amplifiers dont like that. only a few have no problem with that. but doing it that way would mean it would be seeing an 8ohm load from a 4ohm speaker because each channel would be sharing the current and dividing it to both channels equally. rather than bridging it like a normal bridge.)
Now that is something you DONT want to do with a class D amplifier. because it would wreck it. causing horrible oscillation feedback and short out the power supply with an overload of current.
I've got 10,000uF 16v capacitor in parallel with my 2.1A 12v power supply/wallwart just to help it along and be able to handle some heavier bass hits without short circuit protection kicking in. Takes a few more moments to first cut on. but its worth it. almost 3 times the amount of bass power peak volume now.
it even stays on long enough when its unplugged that it will still play music for several seconds after its unplugged because the capacitors slowly discharge.
if i had a super capacitor even just one farad it would have an unreal amount of bass peak volume power.
its able to run a small CD-drive DC motor for several seconds already. with a super capacitor it would last for several minutes possibly more.
if I got several cheap 100 farad capacitors from amazon i'd might as well use them as a battery or hook them to the car battery in our vehicle to help it crank the engine more efficiently. and being only 100 farads each (i could deal with only 10 farads each to be honest if thats significantly cheaper) it shouldnt cost too much
because why would i hear audio when i mute the right channel. un mute it. then mute the left channel.
and still hear music when either one is muted?? it cant play sound from empty space so it has to be coming from both at the same time. as long as either both channels are NOT muted I can still hear sound and music coming from the left AND right channel at the same time.
the negatives are not tied together (the amp looks like its cloned on each side. seperate inductors for left and right channel. on its own half of the board. there is two of everything. one thing mirrors the other on the other half of the board even the capacitors.
i mute the left channel. audio still plays. so i unmute it.
then i mute the right channel. audio STILL plays. so therefore it must be playing both channels at the same time.. it gets louder when both channels are at 100%
i think it would be much better to get an inverting input and invert one of the channels then hook the speaker to +R and +L then it would be optimally bridged without any feedback loops or oscillation
some really cheap crappy amplifiers can just have the left and right channel outputs tied together to become mono (RARELY. many amplifiers dont like that. only a few have no problem with that. but doing it that way would mean it would be seeing an 8ohm load from a 4ohm speaker because each channel would be sharing the current and dividing it to both channels equally. rather than bridging it like a normal bridge.)
Now that is something you DONT want to do with a class D amplifier. because it would wreck it. causing horrible oscillation feedback and short out the power supply with an overload of current.
I've got 10,000uF 16v capacitor in parallel with my 2.1A 12v power supply/wallwart just to help it along and be able to handle some heavier bass hits without short circuit protection kicking in. Takes a few more moments to first cut on. but its worth it. almost 3 times the amount of bass power peak volume now.
it even stays on long enough when its unplugged that it will still play music for several seconds after its unplugged because the capacitors slowly discharge.
if i had a super capacitor even just one farad it would have an unreal amount of bass peak volume power.
its able to run a small CD-drive DC motor for several seconds already. with a super capacitor it would last for several minutes possibly more.
if I got several cheap 100 farad capacitors from amazon i'd might as well use them as a battery or hook them to the car battery in our vehicle to help it crank the engine more efficiently. and being only 100 farads each (i could deal with only 10 farads each to be honest if thats significantly cheaper) it shouldnt cost too much
Is this a class D? In that case, the outputs are most probably already bridged and not referred to ground. So you get something like half the signal of one channel and half of the other.
But note that class D has a large amount of switching noise on the outputs. This noise is basically the same on the two bridge outputs so cancels.
When you connect like you do, this no longer will be the case and you should have a large increase in switching noise across the speaker, which may or may not be audible.
Jan
But note that class D has a large amount of switching noise on the outputs. This noise is basically the same on the two bridge outputs so cancels.
When you connect like you do, this no longer will be the case and you should have a large increase in switching noise across the speaker, which may or may not be audible.
Jan
If you apply a mono signal to both inputs, then the outputs will be identical.
The difference in voltage between the two outputs will be zero. The speakers will be silent.
Except that there will be some noise and those noise signals will not be identical, so the speaker across the two outputs will reproduce the out of phase noise signal.
Now consider what a stereo signal is.
It is two similar signals where the two channels reproduce those slightly different signals/voltages and we "hear" a stereo reproduction.
If we add the two stereo signals together we find that the stereo information gets cancelled because that information is out of phase.
The mono information does not cancel, because the two signal voltages are identical and in phase.
An alternative is to subtract the two stereo voltages and listen to the stereo signal with all the mono information removed. It is intelligible, but only just.
When you connect the speaker across the two stereo outputs you are effectively cancelling all the mono information and listening to the difference signal. It is as if you had subtracted one channel from the other and reproduced the difference signal.
The difference in voltage between the two outputs will be zero. The speakers will be silent.
Except that there will be some noise and those noise signals will not be identical, so the speaker across the two outputs will reproduce the out of phase noise signal.
Now consider what a stereo signal is.
It is two similar signals where the two channels reproduce those slightly different signals/voltages and we "hear" a stereo reproduction.
If we add the two stereo signals together we find that the stereo information gets cancelled because that information is out of phase.
The mono information does not cancel, because the two signal voltages are identical and in phase.
An alternative is to subtract the two stereo voltages and listen to the stereo signal with all the mono information removed. It is intelligible, but only just.
When you connect the speaker across the two stereo outputs you are effectively cancelling all the mono information and listening to the difference signal. It is as if you had subtracted one channel from the other and reproduced the difference signal.
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umm no it doesnt sound out of phase or garbled.
I havent inverted one channel to make the output mono.
its just unmodified. so input normal stereo output normal stereo
but if inverted one input channel. and hooked a speaker to both positives left and right output.
then it would be a stereo input to stereo-bridged output. with the speaker playing both channels in phase at higher power.
but simply hooking a speaker to left negative. right positive. or other way around.
will do the same thing without needing to invert the input audio. combine it into mono to the speaker.
EXCEPT it halves the volume. not increases it.
I havent inverted one channel to make the output mono.
its just unmodified. so input normal stereo output normal stereo
but if inverted one input channel. and hooked a speaker to both positives left and right output.
then it would be a stereo input to stereo-bridged output. with the speaker playing both channels in phase at higher power.
but simply hooking a speaker to left negative. right positive. or other way around.
will do the same thing without needing to invert the input audio. combine it into mono to the speaker.
EXCEPT it halves the volume. not increases it.
I did not ask you to invert one channel.
I gave you some scenarios. No complicated science. Just think it through.
I gave you some scenarios. No complicated science. Just think it through.
and this result confirms what I said in scenario 1
and then confirmed in scenario 3
If the amp is 4 ohms per channel in bridged mode you have to use an 8 ohm speaker or you will overload the amps.
He is not asking about converting the amplifier to bridged.
He is asking for information on what he is getting by connecting the speaker to the two Right and Left outputs.
There was an arrangement like this way back in the late 1970's to replay ordinary stereo from the front pair of speakers and to feed an out of phase signal to the two rear high mounted speakers. Here is has deleted the normal stereo and only feeding the out of phase signal to the rear speaker, relocated to the front.
He is asking for information on what he is getting by connecting the speaker to the two Right and Left outputs.
There was an arrangement like this way back in the late 1970's to replay ordinary stereo from the front pair of speakers and to feed an out of phase signal to the two rear high mounted speakers. Here is has deleted the normal stereo and only feeding the out of phase signal to the rear speaker, relocated to the front.
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Hello,
Dynaco did something like this years ago. Told you you could hook up a third speaker between the left hot and the right hot. Called it a "difference" channel.
Dynaco did something like this years ago. Told you you could hook up a third speaker between the left hot and the right hot. Called it a "difference" channel.
And he's connecting speaker between positive of one channel and negative of the other, or have I lost the plot??
that is correct i have them connected that way. just dont picture it the wrong way around.
the negatives and positives are completely seperated.
its got four inductors! not just two.
the negatives and positives are completely seperated.
its got four inductors! not just two.
That means that each channel is already a full-bridge output. Connecting the speaker to the - of one channel and the + of the other just means that you are using one half of the bridge of each channel, essentially not gaining anything but noise problems.
but wouldn't that at least be alright then to run a subwoofer for 2.1 channel?
it wouldn't be bridged fully at that point and subwoofers already muffle the noise
so noise wouldn't be an issue with a sub and it'd output the combined of the left+right channels
Then I could apply two bipolar caps to the stereo speakers so they dont need to play bass frequencies below 125hz-150hz
then i'd have a cheap 2.1 setup.
I've already got the subwoofer. and the stereo speakers. it'd be as simple as hooking the sub wired up along with the stereo speakers and some capacitors. already got the capacitors as well.
I prefer pretty shallow cutoff frequencies so the mids dont get affected too strongly like 125-150hz for stereo speakers. don't want to lose too much of the frequency range
it wouldn't be bridged fully at that point and subwoofers already muffle the noise
so noise wouldn't be an issue with a sub and it'd output the combined of the left+right channels
Then I could apply two bipolar caps to the stereo speakers so they dont need to play bass frequencies below 125hz-150hz
then i'd have a cheap 2.1 setup.
I've already got the subwoofer. and the stereo speakers. it'd be as simple as hooking the sub wired up along with the stereo speakers and some capacitors. already got the capacitors as well.
I prefer pretty shallow cutoff frequencies so the mids dont get affected too strongly like 125-150hz for stereo speakers. don't want to lose too much of the frequency range
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It could work in principle but you would probably find the sub to low in volume compared to the mid/high speakers.
You also would probably want a low-pass in front of the sub to keep all the hf stuff out and match the hipass of the mid/high section. In order words, a passive xover.
Jan
You also would probably want a low-pass in front of the sub to keep all the hf stuff out and match the hipass of the mid/high section. In order words, a passive xover.
Jan
Like I said, there is ZERO benefit to doing what you're doing. You would be better off just using one channel and grounding the input the other channel.
i have seen at least a japanese amp do this....
Jacco Vermeulen knows....
an amp's output is a virtual ground in ac sense,
so it is possible one is driven and the other just a virtual ground....
Jacco Vermeulen knows....
an amp's output is a virtual ground in ac sense,
so it is possible one is driven and the other just a virtual ground....
well muting one channel then unmuting and muting the other with my computers control panel proves that wrong.
because it was still outputting sound even if either input was muted with the other unmuted.
as long as at least one or the other was unmuted. i'd still get sound when i played a song.
And with both unmuted. it was twice as loud. that also proves its working.
although i could still do it better with bridging it. i dont think i have a way to invert one channel unless I bought two identical 1 to 1 ratio transformers with at least 30-500ohm resistance rated for line level signal.
then i could just invert one of the channels for example the right one
then plug my speakers in normally. invert the right speaker.
then plug a subwoofer to both speaker output positives.
and since the right channel is inverted. the subwoofer gets double the power from both speaker channels. without worrying about volume level.
That would probably cost more than it'd be worth.
because it was still outputting sound even if either input was muted with the other unmuted.
as long as at least one or the other was unmuted. i'd still get sound when i played a song.
And with both unmuted. it was twice as loud. that also proves its working.
although i could still do it better with bridging it. i dont think i have a way to invert one channel unless I bought two identical 1 to 1 ratio transformers with at least 30-500ohm resistance rated for line level signal.
then i could just invert one of the channels for example the right one
then plug my speakers in normally. invert the right speaker.
then plug a subwoofer to both speaker output positives.
and since the right channel is inverted. the subwoofer gets double the power from both speaker channels. without worrying about volume level.
That would probably cost more than it'd be worth.
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