Howdy!
I recently acquired this non-functioning PA cabinet that I've heard awesome reviews about but have no way of using. After a deep dive into plate amps and DSP, I've decided to see if I can use a Fusion FA253 (250w, 250w, 100w triamp) to power this MTM 2.5-way cabinet. One of the two identical Celestion midbass TF1020's gets a lowpass at 250hz, the second one gets passed at maybe 2kh and the 1" horn picks up the rest. I'm jumping off the deepend but I think I have the gumption to learn how to measure response and EQ with REW and the DSP onboard the Fusion amp. I'll be using this for simple live solo gigs with guitar, vocals, and some low bass and kick percusion (one-man band) and am hoping I can make this thing useable.
As it is, it's obviously been designed to be midbass/top and to be paired with a sub if needed. My options forward feel like either:
A) return this cabinet to it's original internal volume and don't touch anything else. Design the crossovers/EQ to mimic what I believe to be the original specs.
or
B) modifiy this cabinet/porting to lower the frequency range as much as I realistially can and design the crossovers/EQ anyway, new drivers (lightweiht neos maybe?).
I've been trying to figure out what I can do with this size of cabinet. A rough measurement yields about 1.25cuFt internal volume after accounting for driver displacement/internal baffles/hardware. The depth of the enclosure will limit the depth of the port so that is a hard limit. My assumption is that Line 6 did a great job of designing this but they may have also limited it due to costs and or wanting to position it within their product line to be paired with additional subs and boxes. I'm just wondering if there's value in working within this canvas and eeking out more performance (in exchange for SPL, I'm guessing) or just going with what's already been done.
I'll be building and glueing in a sealed compartment where the plate amp will be housed (the original plate amp is not the same frootprint so I can't use the original cast insert unfortunately).
Is this absolutely silly? I've already bought the new plate amp and am comitted but I'm also handy with tools and could use this amp in a new build. I just really want to use this form factor and see what it could offer. Thoughts?
Here's a link to the original manual (product is now discontinued, btw)
https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434d11...e6 L3t Specifications - English ( Rev A ).pdf
I recently acquired this non-functioning PA cabinet that I've heard awesome reviews about but have no way of using. After a deep dive into plate amps and DSP, I've decided to see if I can use a Fusion FA253 (250w, 250w, 100w triamp) to power this MTM 2.5-way cabinet. One of the two identical Celestion midbass TF1020's gets a lowpass at 250hz, the second one gets passed at maybe 2kh and the 1" horn picks up the rest. I'm jumping off the deepend but I think I have the gumption to learn how to measure response and EQ with REW and the DSP onboard the Fusion amp. I'll be using this for simple live solo gigs with guitar, vocals, and some low bass and kick percusion (one-man band) and am hoping I can make this thing useable.
As it is, it's obviously been designed to be midbass/top and to be paired with a sub if needed. My options forward feel like either:
A) return this cabinet to it's original internal volume and don't touch anything else. Design the crossovers/EQ to mimic what I believe to be the original specs.
or
B) modifiy this cabinet/porting to lower the frequency range as much as I realistially can and design the crossovers/EQ anyway, new drivers (lightweiht neos maybe?).
I've been trying to figure out what I can do with this size of cabinet. A rough measurement yields about 1.25cuFt internal volume after accounting for driver displacement/internal baffles/hardware. The depth of the enclosure will limit the depth of the port so that is a hard limit. My assumption is that Line 6 did a great job of designing this but they may have also limited it due to costs and or wanting to position it within their product line to be paired with additional subs and boxes. I'm just wondering if there's value in working within this canvas and eeking out more performance (in exchange for SPL, I'm guessing) or just going with what's already been done.
I'll be building and glueing in a sealed compartment where the plate amp will be housed (the original plate amp is not the same frootprint so I can't use the original cast insert unfortunately).
Is this absolutely silly? I've already bought the new plate amp and am comitted but I'm also handy with tools and could use this amp in a new build. I just really want to use this form factor and see what it could offer. Thoughts?
Here's a link to the original manual (product is now discontinued, btw)
https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434d11...e6 L3t Specifications - English ( Rev A ).pdf
In case anybody wants to know, I actually repaired one. It was long run and I almost went crazy, but got it done. It came to me with no power on. The fault appeared at the moment when they were running them on gasoline generators...and then turned off the generators before the PA... Official Line6 guy already gave up. The power supply was thoroughly shot, I replaced dozens of resistors, capacitors, transistors, diodes, a burned trace and the optocoupler. It finally came alive. Maybe even worse was the tiny board that holds two class D amps and itself contains TDA7293 high section amp. Few TDA7293s were burned, finally we had to get new PCB, because it's multilayer and I came to conclusion it's shorted inside. Board after long time came from the overseas, I soldered new components and voila high section was working.
BUT, and that's the reason I'm writing this, there was final catch. I was lucky enough that both class D amps for woofers were working, the bass was there, but not very satisfactory. I measured resistance of the woofers and one was quite high and the second open.
First I thought its shot too, but then from some reason I measured directly on the pads where the coil was connected and huh, just nice cca 2.7 dc Ohms on the "dead" speaker. Finally I found out that despite being totally tight and not corroded, the contact between pad piece and faston piece holded together with a rivet was faulty. Just two metal pieces sitting tightly on one another were not conducting. I sanded it and soldered thoroughly. The box is singing like new since. Guy is excited about super solid bass. So I recommend for anyone who have them to check this out. It really looked quite good, but it either didn't work, or half of the power was lost in that spot.
BUT, and that's the reason I'm writing this, there was final catch. I was lucky enough that both class D amps for woofers were working, the bass was there, but not very satisfactory. I measured resistance of the woofers and one was quite high and the second open.
First I thought its shot too, but then from some reason I measured directly on the pads where the coil was connected and huh, just nice cca 2.7 dc Ohms on the "dead" speaker. Finally I found out that despite being totally tight and not corroded, the contact between pad piece and faston piece holded together with a rivet was faulty. Just two metal pieces sitting tightly on one another were not conducting. I sanded it and soldered thoroughly. The box is singing like new since. Guy is excited about super solid bass. So I recommend for anyone who have them to check this out. It really looked quite good, but it either didn't work, or half of the power was lost in that spot.