Hello.
I need suggestions for a box for two SUBS 12 "200rms each, for use in my HT. Based on the parameters, they can calculate for me?
I have a box with 100L Duct 3 "X 27 cm. It is ideal or not?
Thank you.
FS= 22.153 HZ
QES=0.961
QMS=6.715
QTS=0.841
VAS-LTS=178.658
no-%=0.195
MD(g)= 4.000
SDm²=55.155
Le=1.690
Re=3.600
BL=8.066
SPL=84.9
CMS u m/n=413.584
Mms g=124.794
Mmd kg=117.346
🙂
I need suggestions for a box for two SUBS 12 "200rms each, for use in my HT. Based on the parameters, they can calculate for me?
I have a box with 100L Duct 3 "X 27 cm. It is ideal or not?
Thank you.
FS= 22.153 HZ
QES=0.961
QMS=6.715
QTS=0.841
VAS-LTS=178.658
no-%=0.195
MD(g)= 4.000
SDm²=55.155
Le=1.690
Re=3.600
BL=8.066
SPL=84.9
CMS u m/n=413.584
Mms g=124.794
Mmd kg=117.346
🙂
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sub box
Hi there L88: Ran your T/S parameters in a box program I use and found: Vb=3.5cf, tuningF3=27.44hz, Fb=25.76hz, Pd=66.6w and SPLmax=103db (for a nominal Xmax=5mm) Does this meet your requirements for HT use or music you will play?
or Vb=6.0cf, tuning F3=22.65hz, power Pd=30.9w and SPLmax=100db (for a nominal Xmax=5mm) vent 3" x 4.1" regards, Michael
Hi there L88: Ran your T/S parameters in a box program I use and found: Vb=3.5cf, tuningF3=27.44hz, Fb=25.76hz, Pd=66.6w and SPLmax=103db (for a nominal Xmax=5mm) Does this meet your requirements for HT use or music you will play?
or Vb=6.0cf, tuning F3=22.65hz, power Pd=30.9w and SPLmax=100db (for a nominal Xmax=5mm) vent 3" x 4.1" regards, Michael
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Sorry I don't have handy access to a simulator at this time.
I do want to say that one 3" port for 2 12s is quite inadequate. Heck, a 3" port can be inadequate for a single long stroke 10. Of course, something like LEAP could tell you more precisely, and if the tuning is low it helps, but if you want to output more clean bass you need more port to reduce airspeed.
I do want to say that one 3" port for 2 12s is quite inadequate. Heck, a 3" port can be inadequate for a single long stroke 10. Of course, something like LEAP could tell you more precisely, and if the tuning is low it helps, but if you want to output more clean bass you need more port to reduce airspeed.
If you don't have access to a PC where you could download many free sims ( I still use WinISD), then you need to get the real equations from the White-Bullock series and do the math. We did it that way for decades. After all, there is no one correct solution, just the one of many you select. That makes it hard to just let someone else do your design work for you. QB4, C4, C4? EQ for C6?
To make it harder, your room matters. A sub modeled on it's own in free space is not what you get when you try and live with it. Believe it or not, you get something for free. Room gain. A sub that is flat to 30 Hz may be fine in the park, but in your house it is a disaster.
I agree, a pair of 4" ports is much more like it if they have full flairs. Maybe more. I gave up on single 3 with a Dayton 10 and the box was too small to to go bigger. That sub is now sealed with an LT. Problem solved.
Oh, not one box. TWO boxes so you can place them in two different locations to tune the room. Some prefer 4. I like 2 with bass traps.
To make it harder, your room matters. A sub modeled on it's own in free space is not what you get when you try and live with it. Believe it or not, you get something for free. Room gain. A sub that is flat to 30 Hz may be fine in the park, but in your house it is a disaster.
I agree, a pair of 4" ports is much more like it if they have full flairs. Maybe more. I gave up on single 3 with a Dayton 10 and the box was too small to to go bigger. That sub is now sealed with an LT. Problem solved.
Oh, not one box. TWO boxes so you can place them in two different locations to tune the room. Some prefer 4. I like 2 with bass traps.
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