Hi Guys,
Bought a new boat and want to load it with some old school gear I've been saving for a decade or so (the boat purchase left me a little light on $$$...)
Stereo is primarily used for party tunes (mix of country, top 40, hiphop, alt rock) when we're hanging on the beach so say 20-100' distance from the boat.
For amps I've got two Punch 60Xi's (270w 4 ohm mono) one each for:
Fosgate RFP-1412
AVI SL-250
Because of the listening distance from the boat I'm trying to find a design that will give max volume (although some semblance of sound quality would be nice...). For space I've got pretty much the whole under bow which is a flat floor in a perfect 48" equaliateral triangle shape with 13.5" of available height. Only challenge is the access hatch opening is limted to 30" x 17"
I've only ever built sealed and regular ported boxes but playing with winISD it looks like a 6th order bandpass could yield greater results but I'm a rookie at interpreting the all the data...also saw a previous thread for a boat where a TH was used so I'm open to suggestions.
Attached what I came up with for each...
Bought a new boat and want to load it with some old school gear I've been saving for a decade or so (the boat purchase left me a little light on $$$...)
Stereo is primarily used for party tunes (mix of country, top 40, hiphop, alt rock) when we're hanging on the beach so say 20-100' distance from the boat.
For amps I've got two Punch 60Xi's (270w 4 ohm mono) one each for:
Fosgate RFP-1412
AVI SL-250
Because of the listening distance from the boat I'm trying to find a design that will give max volume (although some semblance of sound quality would be nice...). For space I've got pretty much the whole under bow which is a flat floor in a perfect 48" equaliateral triangle shape with 13.5" of available height. Only challenge is the access hatch opening is limted to 30" x 17"
I've only ever built sealed and regular ported boxes but playing with winISD it looks like a 6th order bandpass could yield greater results but I'm a rookie at interpreting the all the data...also saw a previous thread for a boat where a TH was used so I'm open to suggestions.
Attached what I came up with for each...
Attachments
For a kick off, use WinISD Alpha - it yields much more information about the enclosure, including cone excursion for a given power input, and maxSPL charts (which are based on power handling and cone excursion).
For 100' distance, take off about 14dB from the calculated SPL.
Chris
For 100' distance, take off about 14dB from the calculated SPL.
Chris
With that little wattage available, I would deff look for pro drivers and horn loading for maximum efficiency!
The bow itself could be used as a large enclosure, the access hatch opening would be the exit. Slot loading would work well for easy access to multiple speakers, which could be of any size, even 21" woofers could be loaded sideways in the 13.5" height.
For maximum level, tune higher- for each octave lower you loose about 6 dB in level, the equivalent of anchoring your boat at 200 feet offshore rather than 100 feet .
Rather than blasting from offshore, I'd suggest building a sub into a cooler and bringing it on shore, you could get by with a fraction of the power and size. Since most of the cooler's interior (other than the amp, speaker(s) & battery) is empty, you could put a smaller cooler with your normal cooler goodies inside the large cooler sub.
Since coolers are waterproof, you could float it ashore, or tow it behind your dingy.
The difference in level between 6 feet and 100 feet is 24 dB, a cooler sub at six feet would only need 10 watts to produce the same level that would take 2400 watts at 100 feet.
The small 12 v AGM battery could be charged from the boat, and a solar panel could be added if you want to play all day with no recharging.
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Using the whole bow might be challenging as there are various access holes and panels i need to be able to get to amd trying to use the old subs if possible (although i coukd be convinced to upgrade these if they just arent the right drivers for this application). As well we spend most of our time hanging out i the water rather than on the beach so a fixed install within the boat is prefered.
Whats everyones thoughts on enclosure type? Is a6th order the way to go or would a horn work better with these drivers?
Whats everyones thoughts on enclosure type? Is a6th order the way to go or would a horn work better with these drivers?
Although a 6th order BP can be louder than a regular BR, they sound so "slow" that in a side by side comparison the BR wins to my ear.
If you use Hornresp, you can compare SPL with all different cabinet types using the drivers you have. You can also see the group delay problems the various cabinets have.
A 6th order BP can be simulated in Hornresp by using the "rear ported" option, then using the horn parameters to make a horn that has a large throat volume, then shrinks to a small mouth port.
Art
A passive radiator alignment (either normal PR, or 4th order bandpass loaded with a PR instead of a vent) will give you performance close to that of a vented alignment, and leave no holes in the box for moisture to get in.
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