Hey,
A buddy dropped off a homebrew amp that he wants a switch installed to select between Fixed adjustable bias and common Fender Cathode biasing.
I was wondering about floating the lead to the wiper on the bias pot.
Is it ok to let it float? Drawing below is basically the idea.
Discuss "😀
Trout
A buddy dropped off a homebrew amp that he wants a switch installed to select between Fixed adjustable bias and common Fender Cathode biasing.
I was wondering about floating the lead to the wiper on the bias pot.
Is it ok to let it float? Drawing below is basically the idea.
Discuss "😀
Trout
Attachments
No problem with the electrical configuration, wiper can float. I would probably not recommend switching with the power on - could generate quite a pop. For improved reliability on the bias side I would probably put a 20K resistor across the switch contacts from the bias pot wiper to the pair of 220K grid bias resistors so if the contact becomes unreliable you do not have an open in either position of the switch. Other approaches to accomplish the same end should be equally fine, the key is to prevent an unbiased runaway condition.
I have this arrangement on my "November" build from the AX84 site, and it works fine. As Kevin said, don't switch it with the power on 🙂
Look at the schematic here:
November AX84 amp schematic
Look at the schematic here:
November AX84 amp schematic
Re: Hot switching
I'd be worried about the life of that cathode cap. The switch shorts it to ground.
gingertube said:
I'd be worried about the life of that cathode cap. The switch shorts it to ground.
Re: Hot switching
Yep, a double bias between positions, also cheaper switch. Very clever.
gingertube said:
Yep, a double bias between positions, also cheaper switch. Very clever.
I actually don't use a cathode bypass capacitor.
2 of the above circuits used to switch either or both pairs of a parallel push pull 6V6 amp (Also has triode pentode switching on each pair).
If you want to use a cathode bypass cap then just add a series resistor in line with the bypass cap. Value approx 1/10th of the cathode bias resistor - this WILL change the sound a little in that it will supress some 3rd harmonic distortion in cathode bias mode.
I would suggest you actually try the amp without a cathode bypass cap. Seriously lovely.
Cheers,
Ian
2 of the above circuits used to switch either or both pairs of a parallel push pull 6V6 amp (Also has triode pentode switching on each pair).
If you want to use a cathode bypass cap then just add a series resistor in line with the bypass cap. Value approx 1/10th of the cathode bias resistor - this WILL change the sound a little in that it will supress some 3rd harmonic distortion in cathode bias mode.
I would suggest you actually try the amp without a cathode bypass cap. Seriously lovely.
Cheers,
Ian
I am not actually to worried about pops & bangs.
I mounted the switch in a location that would make hot switcjing impractical.
He wants this mod more as a way to alter the feel of the amp.
After talking with him, more than likely it will rarely be used. He just likes the cathode bias feel better, but wants to be able to switch back occasionally.
The KOC mod looks pretty good, but it would be a pretty tight fit in an already over crowded chassis.
Trout
I mounted the switch in a location that would make hot switcjing impractical.
He wants this mod more as a way to alter the feel of the amp.
After talking with him, more than likely it will rarely be used. He just likes the cathode bias feel better, but wants to be able to switch back occasionally.
The KOC mod looks pretty good, but it would be a pretty tight fit in an already over crowded chassis.
Trout
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