How to glue wood if clamps are out of question? More precisely, how to ensure that the angles are and stay right? And how do you do it, do you glue the sides to the top and bottom first and then the baffle and the back or all at once?
I haven't found a place to buy them from....? 🙄
I know about duct tape but I wonder how could I make 18 mm heavy MDF stick into place with that? After all, it requires precisions below 1 millimeter.
As till said, your option is to use screws. You also have the option of removing the screws after the glue dries and filling the holes. If you don't like that idea, use heavy weights.
Cal
Cal
Cal Weldon said:
I have to admit I kinda dislike the idea of having screws in my speakers, but if it is the only option... And above all, I'm afraid I won't be able to make the holes for the screws right and I'll ruin all that's been done till now. I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.
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Why not make some?
Cut a few right-angled triangles from offcuts of your MDF, glue them up to make two strong prisms, fix one securely to a stout batten, and make the other adjustable using bolts, etc. Alternatively, you could use opposed wedges for adjustment and tightening
Why not make some?
Cut a few right-angled triangles from offcuts of your MDF, glue them up to make two strong prisms, fix one securely to a stout batten, and make the other adjustable using bolts, etc. Alternatively, you could use opposed wedges for adjustment and tightening
There is some type of glues that works without much clamping. But I don't know its long-term behaviour.
regards
Charles
regards
Charles
... a Spanish windlass.
Wrap rope around the enclosure and secure as a loop. Insert stick in a bite of the loop around the box and start turning the rope, gradually increasing the tension.
Just like a tourniquet.
Wrap rope around the enclosure and secure as a loop. Insert stick in a bite of the loop around the box and start turning the rope, gradually increasing the tension.
Just like a tourniquet.
I've used weights in the past when clamps are unavailable or too small: http://www.vikash.info/audio/mtm_floorstander/build_day04.asp
I think the method used to attach the pieces together is quite important. I attach one panel at a time and in a very particular order so that only the ends of each panel can overhang. These are then trimmed off with a router and flush trim bit for perfect finish every time. For this method I use 4 precisely cut panels and two slightly larger-than-required panels.
As each panel is attached the enclosure will gradually sqaure up.
Vikash said:
You build them in exactly the same way that I do, it works well and is easy to do. I use clamps though, you can never have enough clamps
😀
I never glue anything, even if i have clamps (which i do) without using dowels or screws. I rarely use screws. Even with good clamps there is always a chance that due to the slick nature of the glue, the wood will slide around a little bit. Having a couple of dowels holding the pieces in place prevents this and also adds to the strength of the structure. Try placing them at non perpendicular angles to the piece of wood to better hold the wood in place.
Masking Tape
I have a project on my website held with just masking tape.
You must use carpenters wood glue, as the poly stuff does not tack quickly.
http://www.geocities.com/thespeakerguy/satellite1.html
As I looked again at my website, it shows me using poly glue. Guess this is where I learned that lesson.
I have a project on my website held with just masking tape.
You must use carpenters wood glue, as the poly stuff does not tack quickly.
http://www.geocities.com/thespeakerguy/satellite1.html
As I looked again at my website, it shows me using poly glue. Guess this is where I learned that lesson.
Panel Thickness
If you use cleanly cut 3/4" plywood panels they will set up on edge pretty well. If you use good plywood (baltic/russian birch) you can use the thicker, stronger clear packaging tape to join the panels. You can pull it tight.
MDF, unless industrial grade, sucks. Bad dust problem, poor screw retention, surface and several layers tear off even glued well. It's like pressed paper, about as strong, and will still resonate. Heavy as hell. Better to build a laminate panel of 2 lesser thicknesses, half mdf and half or more of plywood.
Insure that both bottom and top are identical and square, then just set the sides up around the bottom first, of course, and tape as you go.
Once secured to the bottom tightly, fit the top in carefully and tape well. Check for square and shift as needed. Bungi (elastic) cords work also, once formed up.
Tim
If you use cleanly cut 3/4" plywood panels they will set up on edge pretty well. If you use good plywood (baltic/russian birch) you can use the thicker, stronger clear packaging tape to join the panels. You can pull it tight.
MDF, unless industrial grade, sucks. Bad dust problem, poor screw retention, surface and several layers tear off even glued well. It's like pressed paper, about as strong, and will still resonate. Heavy as hell. Better to build a laminate panel of 2 lesser thicknesses, half mdf and half or more of plywood.
Insure that both bottom and top are identical and square, then just set the sides up around the bottom first, of course, and tape as you go.
Once secured to the bottom tightly, fit the top in carefully and tape well. Check for square and shift as needed. Bungi (elastic) cords work also, once formed up.
Tim
Re: Panel Thickness
I use 18 mm MDF, it is already cut, too late. I don't know if it is industrial grade, but I presume not. Anyway, I won't use screws.
I use 18 mm MDF, it is already cut, too late. I don't know if it is industrial grade, but I presume not. Anyway, I won't use screws.
I once used someting like this for a prototype case. It was quick and convenient. One prerequisite for its usage is that at least one of the two surfaces to be joined is porous, which is the case for MDF and fibreboard but not for plywood.
http://www.pattex.de/pattex/produkte/montage/kraft_kleber_sup.htm
Edit: Forgot to mention that it has a creamy consistency with quite some adhesion while it is still wet.
Regards
Charles
http://www.pattex.de/pattex/produkte/montage/kraft_kleber_sup.htm
Edit: Forgot to mention that it has a creamy consistency with quite some adhesion while it is still wet.
Regards
Charles
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