I am experimenting since quite a time with TPA3055 modules at supply-voltages of 30 Volts and up .
Tired of moifying the power-supply every time for different tests and after several ups and downs I found
that a combination of cheap chinese units gives me a good result for my own purposes of Voltages and
currents with an ample margin for both values :
a 24 or 36V switched PSU with 10 to 20 Amp-rating ( of the type see picture ) is one :
and a boost-converter of 20 amps input current ( again see picture ) is the other.
Both together come to 50 dollars or less and allow for any output voltage and current one might want
to try for ones amp . Lowest voltage is 24 or 36 volts , depending on chosen PSU , and current is limited
by maximum input current of the booster or less if so adjusted on the booster unit. Set both in screened
box to keep radiation locked in and taking power out through a small choke and an equally small
capacitor ( 470uF/100V los esr-type )and you have a stabilized PSU which adapts to whatever you want
at a very low cost , weight and safe to operate as any failure can only result in lower voltages.
Choke and capacitor placed next to the outside wall of screen-box.
Gives 8 to 15 amps depending on freely adjusted output voltage up to 50 volts
As it happens it makes a good low cost PSU to use in a definite amp as well .
Opinions ?
Tired of moifying the power-supply every time for different tests and after several ups and downs I found
that a combination of cheap chinese units gives me a good result for my own purposes of Voltages and
currents with an ample margin for both values :
a 24 or 36V switched PSU with 10 to 20 Amp-rating ( of the type see picture ) is one :
and a boost-converter of 20 amps input current ( again see picture ) is the other.
Both together come to 50 dollars or less and allow for any output voltage and current one might want
to try for ones amp . Lowest voltage is 24 or 36 volts , depending on chosen PSU , and current is limited
by maximum input current of the booster or less if so adjusted on the booster unit. Set both in screened
box to keep radiation locked in and taking power out through a small choke and an equally small
capacitor ( 470uF/100V los esr-type )and you have a stabilized PSU which adapts to whatever you want
at a very low cost , weight and safe to operate as any failure can only result in lower voltages.
Choke and capacitor placed next to the outside wall of screen-box.
Gives 8 to 15 amps depending on freely adjusted output voltage up to 50 volts
As it happens it makes a good low cost PSU to use in a definite amp as well .
Opinions ?
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Another point I would like to make here for all those who ask so many never-ending questions about power-supply-units is this :
it is always better to have too much than to have too little , and with nowadays cost of these things and with the different cost
of a smaller versus a bigger unit it is surely right to save a few coins on your beers or coffees or whatever and go for the bigger one.
I bought two chinese PSU´s for two big active speker-boxes , 48V at 500W so 10 amps for 29 dollars each. Since the average power
of audio is well below max theses are not even stressed at all but have the necesary reserves when needed.
Think about it.
it is always better to have too much than to have too little , and with nowadays cost of these things and with the different cost
of a smaller versus a bigger unit it is surely right to save a few coins on your beers or coffees or whatever and go for the bigger one.
I bought two chinese PSU´s for two big active speker-boxes , 48V at 500W so 10 amps for 29 dollars each. Since the average power
of audio is well below max theses are not even stressed at all but have the necesary reserves when needed.
Think about it.
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A lot of older servers used 48vdc power supplies. I pulled a 48v, 31A power supply from a decommissioned server. I’ve never tested that 31A limit. These things are just ending up in landfills. Unfortunatel, New servers run on 12v bulk power.
Hello, would you make a schematic - can be handwritten - how you exactly wire up these components?
When you adjust voltages do they stay stable after some use?
When you adjust voltages do they stay stable after some use?