hi, i bought used mixer from good friend in very nice condition, but i need 3 potentiometers labeled trim to change.
cant find part number nowhere please help.thank you.
cant find part number nowhere please help.thank you.
10mm pot? About 20mm of black shaft sticking up? Flat on one side?
If you can find any dead Behringer mixer, I think they use the same controls on most of them. You might source a control that way.
Pots are almost always custom made for the equipment makers, so you may never find this at a general supply house.
Can we mail things like that to Croatia from the USA? I have a mixer board from a Behringer PMH880S, and there are a lot of 50k pots on it. 50k linear and what they call 50kG for volume controls and sends. Once my shop gets moved, I would be willing to send some of those pots if you can't find otherwise.
If you can find any dead Behringer mixer, I think they use the same controls on most of them. You might source a control that way.
Pots are almost always custom made for the equipment makers, so you may never find this at a general supply house.
Can we mail things like that to Croatia from the USA? I have a mixer board from a Behringer PMH880S, and there are a lot of 50k pots on it. 50k linear and what they call 50kG for volume controls and sends. Once my shop gets moved, I would be willing to send some of those pots if you can't find otherwise.
Thank You very much.
I contacted "local" Behringer service for parts and they will probably send me parts.
Will send You pm if needed yours and that service dont send me parts.
I contacted "local" Behringer service for parts and they will probably send me parts.
Will send You pm if needed yours and that service dont send me parts.
reflowing opamps from affected channels solved problem as pots measure fine.
but now i have crackling noise present on few other channels that were good before????
it seems that those low quality (IDE?) cabling used to connect everything is problematic because everything measures fine, oh yes and fx board stoped working, display and controls work but there is simply no fx applied when turned up.
i am so mad right now that i am thinking about making new pcb to fit inside this box and simply throw original pcbs in garbage ,together with original smps,as i cant bare hardware that is unstable and to fail when i need it most.
but now i have crackling noise present on few other channels that were good before????
it seems that those low quality (IDE?) cabling used to connect everything is problematic because everything measures fine, oh yes and fx board stoped working, display and controls work but there is simply no fx applied when turned up.
i am so mad right now that i am thinking about making new pcb to fit inside this box and simply throw original pcbs in garbage ,together with original smps,as i cant bare hardware that is unstable and to fail when i need it most.
Before blaming the cables, I almost always have to clean the inserts and push switches.
Fortunately it usually cleans up from outside. Every input channel has an insert, and maybe the masters do too, I forget. Poke a plug in and out of the noisy channels insert, does it change anything? Spray some Deoxit down the jack, push a plug in and out a few times to spread it, usually all it takes. Do ANY jack that says insert.
The push switches as used for channel assign, mute, PFL, etc, they get noisy too. Sometimes a dead channel is just a dirty assign switch. The switch caps are square, I grip them with pliers and pop them off. That exposes the little square shaft of the switch itself. There is enough space alongside the shaft in the switch body so a small squirt of Deoxit will dribble inside. The poke the switch up and down a few times to work it around. Usually works. And to be honest, I never had a problem with any internal cabling on the Behringer line. MAckie mixers are famous for ribbon cable problems.
Taking the boards out flexes everything, and sometimes it wasn't the solder so much as it was the moving of the board. I have had DSP problems, but no effect has most often been the FX level slider itself.
Fortunately it usually cleans up from outside. Every input channel has an insert, and maybe the masters do too, I forget. Poke a plug in and out of the noisy channels insert, does it change anything? Spray some Deoxit down the jack, push a plug in and out a few times to spread it, usually all it takes. Do ANY jack that says insert.
The push switches as used for channel assign, mute, PFL, etc, they get noisy too. Sometimes a dead channel is just a dirty assign switch. The switch caps are square, I grip them with pliers and pop them off. That exposes the little square shaft of the switch itself. There is enough space alongside the shaft in the switch body so a small squirt of Deoxit will dribble inside. The poke the switch up and down a few times to work it around. Usually works. And to be honest, I never had a problem with any internal cabling on the Behringer line. MAckie mixers are famous for ribbon cable problems.
Taking the boards out flexes everything, and sometimes it wasn't the solder so much as it was the moving of the board. I have had DSP problems, but no effect has most often been the FX level slider itself.
Thank You for bothering and writing that much info,hm there are inserts on all problematic channels, when I come from work will try poking around everything with contact cleener spray. It is just that those IDE? connectors connect too easy.
Already disasembled and reasembled it 2 times if it is fixable from outside I wasted lot of time .At least I cleaned it thoroughly on inside.
Leaving it on for 12 hours changed nothing so not overheating or smps problem(and working channels are always dead silent).
There is fx pot on all channels, and it is not working on all channels so I think there is problem on fx board somewhere.
There is lot of people online reporting same crackling sound problem with all kinds of behringer mixers,weird thing is this one didnt have problem before disasembling.
There is 3 different assign switches and there is crackling present on all of them operating.
One channel even has dc on output, becouse changing volume on that channel pushes speakers in/out altough it settles fast couse of dc block caps somewhere in way.
Problem is somewhere between channel inputs and channel faders.
When I put strong signal on input,little below clipping in problematic channel that crackling sound disapears,it is not masked by signal it just disapears as on same volume without signal that crackling turns on clip led and with signal there is no clip led operating.
Sorry for writing too much.
Already disasembled and reasembled it 2 times if it is fixable from outside I wasted lot of time .At least I cleaned it thoroughly on inside.
Leaving it on for 12 hours changed nothing so not overheating or smps problem(and working channels are always dead silent).
There is fx pot on all channels, and it is not working on all channels so I think there is problem on fx board somewhere.
There is lot of people online reporting same crackling sound problem with all kinds of behringer mixers,weird thing is this one didnt have problem before disasembling.
There is 3 different assign switches and there is crackling present on all of them operating.
One channel even has dc on output, becouse changing volume on that channel pushes speakers in/out altough it settles fast couse of dc block caps somewhere in way.
Problem is somewhere between channel inputs and channel faders.
When I put strong signal on input,little below clipping in problematic channel that crackling sound disapears,it is not masked by signal it just disapears as on same volume without signal that crackling turns on clip led and with signal there is no clip led operating.
Sorry for writing too much.
I meant the master FX level control, not the individual channel sends.
All the switches I can think of are the small square micro button with square post. Post is maybe blue? There are different shape button caps on them though. The button caps pop straight up and off. I use combination pliers because they get a better grip than my fingers. No force is needed.
I don't doubt you see many complaints online, because there are just so many thousands of these mixers out there. Behringer sells a LOT of them. And as a former Behringer service center I saw a lot too, and of the issues I faced, dirty/noisy inesrt jack and buttons was by far the most common.
You can use the insert jack for testing. I forget on that jack if it is the ring or the tip that is the return, but feed a signal into the insert jack instead of the input jack. To get the ring contact you will have to push the plug in half-way, to the first click. Now if some noise or lack of operation is gone, you have verified the jack as the most likely.
All the switches I can think of are the small square micro button with square post. Post is maybe blue? There are different shape button caps on them though. The button caps pop straight up and off. I use combination pliers because they get a better grip than my fingers. No force is needed.
I don't doubt you see many complaints online, because there are just so many thousands of these mixers out there. Behringer sells a LOT of them. And as a former Behringer service center I saw a lot too, and of the issues I faced, dirty/noisy inesrt jack and buttons was by far the most common.
You can use the insert jack for testing. I forget on that jack if it is the ring or the tip that is the return, but feed a signal into the insert jack instead of the input jack. To get the ring contact you will have to push the plug in half-way, to the first click. Now if some noise or lack of operation is gone, you have verified the jack as the most likely.
sprayed contact cleaner everywhere,cleaned with compressed air, repeat.
all 6.3mm-1/4inch plugs also sprayed with cleaner and repluged few 10 of times with plug and then blown with compressed air.
there was some sort of improvement so probably need to order new slider pots.
trim pots are not making crackling sound volume change.
all 6.3mm-1/4inch plugs also sprayed with cleaner and repluged few 10 of times with plug and then blown with compressed air.
there was some sort of improvement so probably need to order new slider pots.
trim pots are not making crackling sound volume change.
reflown all opamps and sprayed contact cleaner in every pot and switch and worked it few times , cleaned and measured slider pots which now seem fine, yet crackling remains.
pluging anything in insert does stop crackling on problematic channel,so as You advised i sprayed contact cleaner there and worked it a lot and repeat few times but no help.
re plugged all contact cables few times.
i think i am missing something obvious here as it should be good now.
pluging anything in insert does stop crackling on problematic channel,so as You advised i sprayed contact cleaner there and worked it a lot and repeat few times but no help.
re plugged all contact cables few times.
i think i am missing something obvious here as it should be good now.
So you have then determined that the crackling is coming from before the insert point in the signal path. Look at the schematic. There is not a lot in that space. If I recall, that mixer has the input mic pre on the rear jack board, with the leads to the trim control in a ribbon?
I just looked, The input circuit is four transistors in the balanced input, through one op amp to the insert jack. The trim control is part of the transistor circuit, but is indeed off that board and on the main mixer board. Using the XLR input, note that the TRS jack next to it is more or less in parallel, through some resistors. In the unused state, the TRS tip and ring have grounding contacts, and if those got dirty...
If you can't find the Xenyx 2442, the input circuit looks the same as the SL2442, though the individual part numbers are different.
I just looked, The input circuit is four transistors in the balanced input, through one op amp to the insert jack. The trim control is part of the transistor circuit, but is indeed off that board and on the main mixer board. Using the XLR input, note that the TRS jack next to it is more or less in parallel, through some resistors. In the unused state, the TRS tip and ring have grounding contacts, and if those got dirty...
If you can't find the Xenyx 2442, the input circuit looks the same as the SL2442, though the individual part numbers are different.
i have schematics.
isnt complicated,already checked all thats why i started cleaning.
nothing is dirty couse everything is cleaned very good.
it is crackling with both xlr mic input and phono line so problem is probably after that.
as crackling tends to lower when signal in volume goes up but doesnt corespond with trim it should be fault at opamp, or maybe those bias diodes?
i reflown opamp but will try to switch from working channel to not working to see what happens.
isnt complicated,already checked all thats why i started cleaning.
nothing is dirty couse everything is cleaned very good.
it is crackling with both xlr mic input and phono line so problem is probably after that.
as crackling tends to lower when signal in volume goes up but doesnt corespond with trim it should be fault at opamp, or maybe those bias diodes?
i reflown opamp but will try to switch from working channel to not working to see what happens.
now all by itself it stopped crackling on channel i was feeding in strong signal for test.
realy weird,diodes are fine opamps fine and changing them didnt change nothnig.
that trim pot when had signal on it changed crackling, when was lower signal there was more crackling. but when no signal didnt change nothing.
realy weird,diodes are fine opamps fine and changing them didnt change nothnig.
that trim pot when had signal on it changed crackling, when was lower signal there was more crackling. but when no signal didnt change nothing.
i found bulging caps that few days ago were looking fine. it is those 6v 1000uf caps on all problematic channels exactly.
i hope that those caps couse crackling not that crackling made thosecaps bulge.
i hope that those caps couse crackling not that crackling made thosecaps bulge.
replaced all,not only bulged caps with good quality nichicon, including ones in psu, crackling still present.
could it be those ribbon cables are loosing contact?
could it be those ribbon cables are loosing contact?
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