Awesome group and forum!
I just surfed on tonight, and I've become extremely interested in persuing a speaker project now. I'm currently running a couple quest q665 towers, and cerwin vega rears and center. THEY NEED TO ALL GO! I'm really interested in the Audax HT kit. I've read a couple things on this forum, and everyone has nothing but great things to say about them.
My question is this. How good do they really sound? Are they comparable to a Paradigm or B&W speaker? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
TIA
I just surfed on tonight, and I've become extremely interested in persuing a speaker project now. I'm currently running a couple quest q665 towers, and cerwin vega rears and center. THEY NEED TO ALL GO! I'm really interested in the Audax HT kit. I've read a couple things on this forum, and everyone has nothing but great things to say about them.
My question is this. How good do they really sound? Are they comparable to a Paradigm or B&W speaker? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
TIA
Come on guys, what should I expect from this kit? Compared to the speakers I can buy in my local hi-fi shop, will these make me happy?
SplitSlim said:
If you exclde your time to put it together a well designed kit should save you in the neighborhood of 60-80% of what you would spend at a hifi shop (this assumes that the we don't consider the c#@$ a lot of stores sell). An experienced Frugal-phile(tm) can often get the same quality in the single digit percentages.
dave
Thanks for the reply...
I've decided to go ahead with the Audax HT kit. I'm going to start with the rears and move on from there.
I have a question though. Being the real newbie that I am, I'm a little lost in regards to the xover diagrams I'm reading for the kit. I understand what each symbol is (r1, l1, c1, etc), but what is the best way of assembling the xover? On a peg board and solder the connections on the bottom? Please excuse my newbyness, but once I get this xover quetsion answered I'm all set.
Here is one of the diagrams.
TIA...
P.S- Are these speakers 8ohm?
I've decided to go ahead with the Audax HT kit. I'm going to start with the rears and move on from there.
I have a question though. Being the real newbie that I am, I'm a little lost in regards to the xover diagrams I'm reading for the kit. I understand what each symbol is (r1, l1, c1, etc), but what is the best way of assembling the xover? On a peg board and solder the connections on the bottom? Please excuse my newbyness, but once I get this xover quetsion answered I'm all set.
Here is one of the diagrams.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TIA...
P.S- Are these speakers 8ohm?
Soldering
I solder my x-over's point to point, I mount he components on a piece of wood (glue or a screw) and then solder the components directly to each other.
I solder my x-over's point to point, I mount he components on a piece of wood (glue or a screw) and then solder the components directly to each other.
Excellent, that's kind of what I was thinking.
What about the "IN", "OUT", and "GROUND" connections? What is recommended for these points? I know that "IN" is the positive coming in from the amp, "OUT" is the positive going to the woofers, and "GROUND" is the negative to the woofers and the negative from the amp, right?
What about the "IN", "OUT", and "GROUND" connections? What is recommended for these points? I know that "IN" is the positive coming in from the amp, "OUT" is the positive going to the woofers, and "GROUND" is the negative to the woofers and the negative from the amp, right?
Right. Newbie?
For mounting I like the particle board that comes with holes and which is the same type used for tool boards (the type you put on the wall and stick small hook type things in and hang your tools on). I use straps (the plastic self-locking straps used for strapping cables) through the board to mount the components. This makes it easy to remove stuf and do tweaking. I would only glue after "the final version" is ready....
/UrSv
For mounting I like the particle board that comes with holes and which is the same type used for tool boards (the type you put on the wall and stick small hook type things in and hang your tools on). I use straps (the plastic self-locking straps used for strapping cables) through the board to mount the components. This makes it easy to remove stuf and do tweaking. I would only glue after "the final version" is ready....
/UrSv
X-OVER BOARDS
Hi,
An overdue tip perhaps:
Often I use a piece of MDF scrap board and double sided adhesive as used to fix carpetry to the floor and copper nails as binding posts.
That allows for easy rearrangement after listening is done and it is also easier when you want to unwind some coiling from the inductors.
Another 2 Eurocents in the pottie,😉
Hi,
An overdue tip perhaps:
Often I use a piece of MDF scrap board and double sided adhesive as used to fix carpetry to the floor and copper nails as binding posts.
That allows for easy rearrangement after listening is done and it is also easier when you want to unwind some coiling from the inductors.
Another 2 Eurocents in the pottie,😉
By the way, a good connection is a connection that stay together even if there is no solder. Solder is used only to hold the connection, not to make the "link". Use a sandpaper to remove all paint/dust/rust/oxydation from the wires before connecting them.
Another 0.02$ but unfortunately CDN 🙂
Another 0.02$ but unfortunately CDN 🙂
SplitSlim said:
The diagram says this is the tweeter crossover. Then In is plus from the amp. Out is plus of the tweeter. Ground is connected to the other tweeter terminal & the minus from the amp.
dave
Dave, correct as always🙂
But, either the mid or bass drivers are wired phase reverse ( I think it's the mid, but I'm not sure, so check the notes on the website carefully) , so these connections will go from the plus output to the minus speaker terminal, and vice versa.
Slim, I have built the centre speaker, ( with a few tweaks), and it is a very good speaker for the money, although perhaps a little soft on the top, but bass is well defined and relatively deep, and the midrange is clear and concise, exactly what is needed for a HT centre channel.
You may wish to think about building the crossover in a seperate box, as it is difficult to fit into the cabinet once built, especially if you use large air cored inductors.
A thread on the Audax HT kits, and it got to 11 posts before I noticed it!😀
But, either the mid or bass drivers are wired phase reverse ( I think it's the mid, but I'm not sure, so check the notes on the website carefully) , so these connections will go from the plus output to the minus speaker terminal, and vice versa.
Slim, I have built the centre speaker, ( with a few tweaks), and it is a very good speaker for the money, although perhaps a little soft on the top, but bass is well defined and relatively deep, and the midrange is clear and concise, exactly what is needed for a HT centre channel.
You may wish to think about building the crossover in a seperate box, as it is difficult to fit into the cabinet once built, especially if you use large air cored inductors.
A thread on the Audax HT kits, and it got to 11 posts before I noticed it!😀
X-OVER.
Hi,
If the rest of the x-over is second order (as would be expected) the midrange should wired out of phase with respect of the others.
What Audax kit is this anyway?
Cheers,😉
Hi,
If the rest of the x-over is second order (as would be expected) the midrange should wired out of phase with respect of the others.
What Audax kit is this anyway?
Cheers,😉
Frank, this kit-
http://www.audax.com/doit/us_ht01.shtml
On second thoughts, I think it is the bass speakers that are wired out of phase, but the Audax site seems to be offline at the minute so I will check later...
http://www.audax.com/doit/us_ht01.shtml
On second thoughts, I think it is the bass speakers that are wired out of phase, but the Audax site seems to be offline at the minute so I will check later...
Hi,
Thks for the link Pinkmouse.
The bass out of phase?
I've trouble believing that but let's wait till that link goes live.
Cheers,😉
Thks for the link Pinkmouse.
The bass out of phase?
I've trouble believing that but let's wait till that link goes live.
Cheers,😉
AUDAX
Hi,
Bertrand,don't worry about it.
Nothing of use there anyway,maybe just this:
THE AUDAX HOME THEATER SYSTEM
The complete Audax Home Theater Loudspeaker system is comprised of; front left, right and center (LCR) speakers, left and right surround speakers and a powered subwoofer. All speakers in the home theater system use drivers from the same line, assuring spectral consistency across all channels.
The left and right channel speakers use the MTM geometry (the D'Appolito configuration) with a pair of 6.5" mid-bass drivers flanking a soft dome tweeter from the Audax Micro Series™ line. This compact tweeter permits closer than normal spacing of the mid-bass drivers resulting in a near ideal vertical polar response pattern for home theater application. The left and right channel speakers are 2-way vented systems with a 4th order acoustic in-phase crossover at 2650Hz. Sensitivity is rated at 88dB/2.83v/1m. Response is within +1.6dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The low frequency -3dB point is 50Hz. System impedance is 8W.
The center channel speaker forms the heart of a home theater system. It defines the focal point for all cinematic action. The center channel speaker must have uniform horizontal polar response over the viewing region both to preserve the spectral balance of spoken dialog and to center the action for off-axis viewers. It should also be essentially a full range system.
To this end, the center channel is a 3-way vented speaker. A Micro Series™ tweeter and 5.25" mid-bass driver are vertically aligned and placed on the centerline of the speaker baffle to handle the high frequencies and the midrange. A pair of 6.5" woofers flanks the tweeter and midrange drivers. Crossovers occur at 400Hz and 3.5kHz. On-axis frequency response is within +1.6dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The low frequency -3dB point is 55Hz and sensitivity is 87.5dB/2.83v/1m. At typical viewing angles within +15o off the on-axis position, response changes less than 1dB over the full frequency range.
Aiming the system toward AC-3, the monopole radiation pattern was chosen for the surround speakers. The surround speaker uses the same 6.5" mid-bass driver and tweeter used in the LCR channels. This surround speaker is a closed-box 2-way design with a 4th order in-phase acoustic crossover at 3kHz. Response is within +1.5dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The -3dB point is 85Hz and sensitivity is rated at 88dB/2.83v/1m.
The powered subwoofer uses 12" long throw woofer in a vented enclosure to produce a -3dB point of 30Hz. An integral 150-watt amplifier sums the left and right channels to supply a mono signal to the woofer. There is a 12db/octave electronic low-pass filter with a continuously variable crossover frequency ranging from 40 to 200Hz. A direct input bypasses this crossover to accept input from the LFE channel. A single subwoofer will produce 105dB SPL into a half-space at 26Hz. Corner placement and room gain can add 6-10dB more to this figure.
And it is not a three way but a two way D'appolito.
Hi,
Bertrand,don't worry about it.
Nothing of use there anyway,maybe just this:
THE AUDAX HOME THEATER SYSTEM
The complete Audax Home Theater Loudspeaker system is comprised of; front left, right and center (LCR) speakers, left and right surround speakers and a powered subwoofer. All speakers in the home theater system use drivers from the same line, assuring spectral consistency across all channels.
The left and right channel speakers use the MTM geometry (the D'Appolito configuration) with a pair of 6.5" mid-bass drivers flanking a soft dome tweeter from the Audax Micro Series™ line. This compact tweeter permits closer than normal spacing of the mid-bass drivers resulting in a near ideal vertical polar response pattern for home theater application. The left and right channel speakers are 2-way vented systems with a 4th order acoustic in-phase crossover at 2650Hz. Sensitivity is rated at 88dB/2.83v/1m. Response is within +1.6dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The low frequency -3dB point is 50Hz. System impedance is 8W.
The center channel speaker forms the heart of a home theater system. It defines the focal point for all cinematic action. The center channel speaker must have uniform horizontal polar response over the viewing region both to preserve the spectral balance of spoken dialog and to center the action for off-axis viewers. It should also be essentially a full range system.
To this end, the center channel is a 3-way vented speaker. A Micro Series™ tweeter and 5.25" mid-bass driver are vertically aligned and placed on the centerline of the speaker baffle to handle the high frequencies and the midrange. A pair of 6.5" woofers flanks the tweeter and midrange drivers. Crossovers occur at 400Hz and 3.5kHz. On-axis frequency response is within +1.6dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The low frequency -3dB point is 55Hz and sensitivity is 87.5dB/2.83v/1m. At typical viewing angles within +15o off the on-axis position, response changes less than 1dB over the full frequency range.
Aiming the system toward AC-3, the monopole radiation pattern was chosen for the surround speakers. The surround speaker uses the same 6.5" mid-bass driver and tweeter used in the LCR channels. This surround speaker is a closed-box 2-way design with a 4th order in-phase acoustic crossover at 3kHz. Response is within +1.5dB from 100Hz to 20kHz. The -3dB point is 85Hz and sensitivity is rated at 88dB/2.83v/1m.
The powered subwoofer uses 12" long throw woofer in a vented enclosure to produce a -3dB point of 30Hz. An integral 150-watt amplifier sums the left and right channels to supply a mono signal to the woofer. There is a 12db/octave electronic low-pass filter with a continuously variable crossover frequency ranging from 40 to 200Hz. A direct input bypasses this crossover to accept input from the LFE channel. A single subwoofer will produce 105dB SPL into a half-space at 26Hz. Corner placement and room gain can add 6-10dB more to this figure.
And it is not a three way but a two way D'appolito.
The rest of it.
Hope this help,😉
Hope this help,😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AND MORE REST
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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