I have recently acquired Auna Linie 300 5.1 speakers...
Central speaker came with a bad tweeter and they are bad quality anyway... But at first I thought it could be the way they were soldered and maybe bad cap, so today I desoldered it and tested directly however the tweeter was playing at much lower volume than the other speakers with the same exact tweeters, so I increased a bit more the volume and puff, it burned as I was testing without the cap however I was testing treble only sounds...
Central Speaker:
Bookshelf speakers: Same specs as central speakers above...
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I want to buy the Dayton Audio TD20F Tweeter which is a cheap but pretty good tweeter
TD20F specs:
4 Ohms;
90.0 dB @ 2.83V/1m;
Frequency: 3Khz to 20Khz;
Resonant Frequency (Fs) 1696 Hz;
20W RMS, 40max with proper crossover;
Full Specs: Dayton Audio - TD20F-4 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter 4 Ohm
My questions:
♪-I would like to know what's the best frequency for the crossover between the woofer playing almost full range with the tweeter I mentioned above from Dayton Audio (Woofers with only low frequency cut on the amp at my chosen level and redirected to my subwoofer but no high frequency cut-off, direct connection);
♪- I'm planing to upgrade the center\front speakers all with Dayton Audio tweeters and continue with the original woofer directly connected to +- and just add a cap for the tweeter.
♪- original caps are 2.2uF 50V, what caps should I use for the Dayton Audio tweeter (will it be any good with the original caps?)?
Extra info (not important):
● And no, I don't plan to buy an actual good crossover for now because those are cheap speakers, maybe later if I also change the woofer I would be willing to apply proper crossover electronics with actual woofer max frequency cuttoff, for now just want to upgrade the tweeters the cheapest way as those are terrible while the rear speaker big towers are actually decent because they have better actual silk dome tweeters, so when playing games rear audio is much clear than front audio (also the big rear towers are ported and the front+center speakers are SEALED) so the rear also has better bass, but that will be fixed with higher frequency crossover for the woofers from the amp so that they lose a bit more bass.
● I'm still waiting for the receiver to arrive and for now I have those speakers connected to my Logitech Z5500 integrated amp with it's nice 10 inch subwoofer and I'm using 80hz crossover via software direct 5.1 from a kinda good old Auzentech sound card, but this amp has an internal non adjustable crossover which I don't known the frequency, but anyway when I get the receiver maybe I will put 90hz crossover for front+center and maybe 100 or 120hz for rear big tower speakers (and if they are still not much clear I could increase as I need mostly sound clarity for gaming and let the big subwoofer do all the huge kicks, explosions, rumble and shake all my windows😀).
Central speaker came with a bad tweeter and they are bad quality anyway... But at first I thought it could be the way they were soldered and maybe bad cap, so today I desoldered it and tested directly however the tweeter was playing at much lower volume than the other speakers with the same exact tweeters, so I increased a bit more the volume and puff, it burned as I was testing without the cap however I was testing treble only sounds...
Central Speaker:
- frequency range: 92Hz - 20kHz
- sensitivity: 87dB +-3dB
- 8 ohm
- max: 76 watts - 35W RMS
- speakers are sealed 2-way. The Woofer is directly connected to +- (No Crossover) and the tweeters only have a small 2.2 uF 50V cap and the crap tweeters are 4 ohms (3watt) and the woofers are 8ohms and all 5 speakers are 8 ohms at the end...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bookshelf speakers: Same specs as central speakers above...
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I want to buy the Dayton Audio TD20F Tweeter which is a cheap but pretty good tweeter
TD20F specs:
4 Ohms;
90.0 dB @ 2.83V/1m;
Frequency: 3Khz to 20Khz;
Resonant Frequency (Fs) 1696 Hz;
20W RMS, 40max with proper crossover;
Full Specs: Dayton Audio - TD20F-4 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter 4 Ohm
My questions:
♪-I would like to know what's the best frequency for the crossover between the woofer playing almost full range with the tweeter I mentioned above from Dayton Audio (Woofers with only low frequency cut on the amp at my chosen level and redirected to my subwoofer but no high frequency cut-off, direct connection);
♪- I'm planing to upgrade the center\front speakers all with Dayton Audio tweeters and continue with the original woofer directly connected to +- and just add a cap for the tweeter.
♪- original caps are 2.2uF 50V, what caps should I use for the Dayton Audio tweeter (will it be any good with the original caps?)?
Extra info (not important):
● And no, I don't plan to buy an actual good crossover for now because those are cheap speakers, maybe later if I also change the woofer I would be willing to apply proper crossover electronics with actual woofer max frequency cuttoff, for now just want to upgrade the tweeters the cheapest way as those are terrible while the rear speaker big towers are actually decent because they have better actual silk dome tweeters, so when playing games rear audio is much clear than front audio (also the big rear towers are ported and the front+center speakers are SEALED) so the rear also has better bass, but that will be fixed with higher frequency crossover for the woofers from the amp so that they lose a bit more bass.
● I'm still waiting for the receiver to arrive and for now I have those speakers connected to my Logitech Z5500 integrated amp with it's nice 10 inch subwoofer and I'm using 80hz crossover via software direct 5.1 from a kinda good old Auzentech sound card, but this amp has an internal non adjustable crossover which I don't known the frequency, but anyway when I get the receiver maybe I will put 90hz crossover for front+center and maybe 100 or 120hz for rear big tower speakers (and if they are still not much clear I could increase as I need mostly sound clarity for gaming and let the big subwoofer do all the huge kicks, explosions, rumble and shake all my windows😀).
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Normally I guess, assuming these were crossed reasonably to begin with I'd leave the woofer crossovers in place and adjust the tweeter to fit into that role. You'll want to choose one that is sensitive enough, and which is OK playing as low as the other one.
The woofers have no crossover, only the original tweeters have a simple 2.2uF 50V cap...
The Dayton Audio tweeters are more sensitive and play louder, but I don't mind equalizing via software and drop a bit the higher frequencies, or the actual added volume might actually help hear people local voices in the games I play which act as real life full surround with distance and location volume calculated.
I have kinda good headphones, but I hate playing with them, at night I just put subwoofer volume to 1 bar or completely OFF and just play with the satellite speakers with very low bass so that I don't wake up anyone but still get super amazing sound location much better than fake 3D surround on headphones (though those speakers miss a lot in clarity to even the original PC speakers of the Z5500 which actually just using a 3 inch full range speaker even have more bass and better high frequency than this much bigger 2-way speakers lol)...
The Dayton Audio tweeters are more sensitive and play louder, but I don't mind equalizing via software and drop a bit the higher frequencies, or the actual added volume might actually help hear people local voices in the games I play which act as real life full surround with distance and location volume calculated.
I have kinda good headphones, but I hate playing with them, at night I just put subwoofer volume to 1 bar or completely OFF and just play with the satellite speakers with very low bass so that I don't wake up anyone but still get super amazing sound location much better than fake 3D surround on headphones (though those speakers miss a lot in clarity to even the original PC speakers of the Z5500 which actually just using a 3 inch full range speaker even have more bass and better high frequency than this much bigger 2-way speakers lol)...
A little help would be very appreciated.
I already got the AV Receiver.
What Capacitor would you recommend as crossover for Dayton Audio TD20F Tweeter (specs of the tweeter on the first post), Woofer specs is unknown.
Also I have the following question:
- I have filled 1 sealed Bookshelf Speaker with Cotton and sounds better, but I just filled it up a lot (for testing purpose only). How much cotton would be recommended, just a thin layer all around? (back, bottom, sides and above?)
Thank You
guily
I already got the AV Receiver.
What Capacitor would you recommend as crossover for Dayton Audio TD20F Tweeter (specs of the tweeter on the first post), Woofer specs is unknown.
Also I have the following question:
- I have filled 1 sealed Bookshelf Speaker with Cotton and sounds better, but I just filled it up a lot (for testing purpose only). How much cotton would be recommended, just a thin layer all around? (back, bottom, sides and above?)
Thank You
guily
In your situation I'd probably start with the same 2.2uF capacitor and work from there. It should need reducing in level (if you bought one with sufficient sensitivity), so you could use resistors, but even easier would be to use a variable L-pad. Then you could consider increasing the capacitor, maybe taking it second order, and crossing the woofer.
Thank You so much. when I buy the Tweeter I will definitely try with the original 2.2uF.
Also if I try higher uF cap should I always stick with 50V caps like the original??
And about the cabinet stuffing with cotton, Should I fill it up everywhere or should I use a thin layer of cotton to sides, up\bottom and back?
Also if I try higher uF cap should I always stick with 50V caps like the original??
And about the cabinet stuffing with cotton, Should I fill it up everywhere or should I use a thin layer of cotton to sides, up\bottom and back?
It usually works better when it is not on the sides. Some materials can be used to lightly fill the box. There are some questions from this... will it stand up on its own, is it so thick that if you put it near the driver it will block the path?
I have used the cotton material in the attachment, the thinner denser cotton on all sides and the thicker but less dense cotton around.
Can anyone check if the speaker is good filled the way like the pictures?
Also I need to know if I want to try other Capacitor of higher value (uF) as crossover for the tweeter, does it still need to be 50V like the original?
Thank you
Hugo
Can anyone check if the speaker is good filled the way like the pictures?
Also I need to know if I want to try other Capacitor of higher value (uF) as crossover for the tweeter, does it still need to be 50V like the original?
Thank you
Hugo
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Help would be very appreciated people!!! (PLZ check my post above)
I just bought 3x Dayton Audio TD20F-4 Dome Tweeters
ALL TWEETER INFO:
->https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/275-020--dayton-audio-td20f-4-spec-sheet.pdf
(This is a pretty flat budget tweeter, however the ohms variation is a bit high on the higher end of frequency).
What kind of capacitor value would anyone recommend for this tweeter according that original woofer data is UNKNOWN and I also have no measuring equipment, only my ears...
The woofer is 8ohms 4.5 inch
I ordered with the 3 tweeters the following caps: 2.2; 3.3; 4; 8 and 10 uF to test.
What value would you guys randomly chose in my situation? (doesn't have to be any of the caps I bought, but the value you think would be more appropriated)
ps: I'm still waiting for them to arrive, will take a few time🙁
Thank You
guily
I just bought 3x Dayton Audio TD20F-4 Dome Tweeters
ALL TWEETER INFO:
->https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/275-020--dayton-audio-td20f-4-spec-sheet.pdf
(This is a pretty flat budget tweeter, however the ohms variation is a bit high on the higher end of frequency).
What kind of capacitor value would anyone recommend for this tweeter according that original woofer data is UNKNOWN and I also have no measuring equipment, only my ears...
The woofer is 8ohms 4.5 inch
I ordered with the 3 tweeters the following caps: 2.2; 3.3; 4; 8 and 10 uF to test.
What value would you guys randomly chose in my situation? (doesn't have to be any of the caps I bought, but the value you think would be more appropriated)
ps: I'm still waiting for them to arrive, will take a few time🙁
Thank You
guily
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