Audiopipe APCL-15001D riser board

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Does anyone knows the part number for the 4 sand off IC's on the driver board for this Audiopipe amplifier?
 

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In this particular amp, im having DC voltage on the output of this amp. The four IRF640 behind the rotary controls (not the input jack side) is getting hot.
Ive removed the riser board and ive checked all the components that drives the gate signals for the output fets.
Ill post up a pic of the amp shortly.
 
This is the side that's getting hot, I've checked all the components that drives these fets but I haven't find anything with any significant irregularity that's causing it, any ideas anyone?
 

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Remove the rectifiers (AFTER discharging the rail caps). Then you can check the drive signals on the FETs. Without the rectifiers, you can connect your scope ground to the source legs of the FETs and see the signal clearly with the FETs in the circuit. If there is any problem with the drive signal, it should be obvious.
 
Should I also put in back the driver board? As I'm having the heating issue with ans
Without it in the circuit.
I obviously won't get power to the output and the frontend stages of the amp, will I see a signal on the oscilloscope?
And why is it when I use the ground reference on the speaker ground(torrodial center tap secondary) I'm seeing large voltages around the pins and tab of the 5volt regulator (7805) unlike the other bank the tab is ground and there is 12volts and 5volts respectively.
 
I'm not getting a signal; I'm getting 12.22 volts on the gate and one of the IRF640 from the same bank was overheating rapidly. I've removed it and the remaining three is at room temperature. Is there any other checks I should make?
The scope setting was T/D 1 ms and V/D 5v.
 

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The driver board hasn't been repaired before its only been removed and reinsert on the main board. There's no solder blob or any short.
My question Sir Babin, if the driver board is removed should it still flicker the power led while on protect (just the same as when it's in and the rectifier is in place)?
 
I don't remember the LED flashing when I've done this. Short the positive and negative speaker terminals to see if that makes a difference.

Sometimes you can get tiny strands of solder (especially with chipquik) between the pins on the driver board when it's being removed. You can check with a meter to see if you have shorted pins.
 
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