Audi RS7 Bose Subwoofer Replacement Advice

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tf1216

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Joined 2004
#1
The Bose equipment is lacking in this car. There is little to no punch even after adjusting settings. Round one upgrade involves only replacing the Bose woofer and the amplifier channel. I would like to start there. There is a YouTube video I am going to follow but curious if someone would recommend gear instead of the Polk Audio that was used. The fun starts at 5:00.

YouTube

I do not know the volume of the enclosure but a picture is attached here.

Here is the driver used in the video:
Polk Audio Subwoofer Used (Discontinued):
Cutout: 7 1/16" / Depth: 4"
Polk Audio MM840 8" Single 4 ohm Mobile Monitor Subwoofer

Newer Model:
Polk Audio MM 842 DVC 900W Peak 8" MM1 Series SVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Thoughts?
 

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#3
There is no audible sign that either the amp or the woofer are defective.

I have never tested the Bose audio system in a '16 A7/S7/RS7 prior to hearing this one. Reading on the forums, it does appear others also fee the bass is lacking.
 
#4
In the past, bose has had problems with some of their equipment that made it perform poorly. In many cases, it was leaky capacitors doing the damage. When the defective components were repaired/replaced, they were much better and good enough for a lot of owners.

Would there be any car dealers with a used vehicle that they would let you listen to the system?
 
#5
Great idea. Car is in service today. This will be easy to do.

An A5 Sportback was provided for the day with the B&O system. It is also lacking any worthy punch. A friend has a '13 Camry SE with the basic audio system. It punches much harder than what I am hearing from these Audis.
 
#7
I've got a Q5 with the B&O system. I think they are just crap(in the sub stage). Undersized driver and amp for sub duties. Mine is in the spare(18 or 19" wheel) and I considered doing something custom with an old 8" RE Audio sub I have but might just get the new JBL BassPro Hub as a drop-in replacement. I couldn't determine the amp he used from the video but I imagine somewhere between 2-300RMS is what I'd shoot for and a matching spec sub. ie: 300W RMS sub if you have a 300W RMS amp. I'd rather have more amp than I need than not enough(like if you have a 1000W RMS sub). I like to use the stroke of the sub. Nothing special about Polk for the last 30 years. Speaker design/production technology is really good these days. I'm likely to go for Dayton drivers if I don't want to spend much or get a better driver for the same price. The limiting factor will be the flex on the plastic enclosure. I usually buy old school, used gear. Back in the day(before Bose was in cars) we said "Bose blows. All highs, no lows."
 
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