*Not sure if this is appropriate for this forum, if not, mods please advise*
I am electronically talent-less. I need a custom crossover made but don't have the skills, wondering is there anyone out there who might build one for me, please?
There is a thread here on diyaudio around what I'm looking for, for anyone interested - crossover question for a sub
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Regards to all, glad this forum is still alive and well.
I am electronically talent-less. I need a custom crossover made but don't have the skills, wondering is there anyone out there who might build one for me, please?
There is a thread here on diyaudio around what I'm looking for, for anyone interested - crossover question for a sub
________________
Regards to all, glad this forum is still alive and well.
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Pioneer sub
Hi,
I looked at the thread you link to and I don't think it is very clear which option you want.
There are basically three types of crossovers:
1) Passive "high level" crossovers that come between the amplifier and the speaker's drive units. This is the most common approach.
2) Passive "line level" crossovers that come between the line level source and the amplifiers driving the speakers
3) Active "line level" crossovers that are just like the above, but use active filters and are therefore more adjustable.
If you can use #3, there are literally dozens of used pro-audio models on ebay that would XO at 80hz and may work with your system. Some are portable, others are meant for studio or home use.
But there are still unanswered questions:
Do you have at least 3 channels of amplification? Are you using the JBL amp or not?
If not, are you trying to drive 2 channels from 80hz on up and 1 mono sub all with the Alpine amp?
Or are the "main" speakers powered so the Alpine will just drive the sub?
You also need to specify what you are putting in front of the amps. Is it a preamp with an XLR or RCA output or some other thing (like a BT device, or some sort of digital music player). Not all of these sources have the same compatibility with xover choices above.
Hope this helps
Hi,
I looked at the thread you link to and I don't think it is very clear which option you want.
There are basically three types of crossovers:
1) Passive "high level" crossovers that come between the amplifier and the speaker's drive units. This is the most common approach.
2) Passive "line level" crossovers that come between the line level source and the amplifiers driving the speakers
3) Active "line level" crossovers that are just like the above, but use active filters and are therefore more adjustable.
If you can use #3, there are literally dozens of used pro-audio models on ebay that would XO at 80hz and may work with your system. Some are portable, others are meant for studio or home use.
But there are still unanswered questions:
Do you have at least 3 channels of amplification? Are you using the JBL amp or not?
If not, are you trying to drive 2 channels from 80hz on up and 1 mono sub all with the Alpine amp?
Or are the "main" speakers powered so the Alpine will just drive the sub?
You also need to specify what you are putting in front of the amps. Is it a preamp with an XLR or RCA output or some other thing (like a BT device, or some sort of digital music player). Not all of these sources have the same compatibility with xover choices above.
Hope this helps
If you'd like the passive line-level circuit whose schematic is shown in your linked thread (that's the one with the 1.47H inductor), I can build one of those for you. PM me.
Thanks guys. Abraxalito I will indeed PM you.
Ludcam since you were so kind as to take an interest, I have made this diagram and will attempt to answer your questions below
bear in mind I'm not the brightest when it comes to electronics of any description -
_____________________________________________________________
There are basically three types of crossovers:
1) Passive "high level" crossovers that come between the amplifier and the speaker's drive units. This is the most common approach.
This is what i thought initially, but 2ohm 80Hz crossovers that can handle 150 watts are hard to find apparently.
2) Passive "line level" crossovers that come between the line level source and the amplifiers driving the speakers
line level... that's why I made the diagram, is the output from the bluetooth receiver even going to be line level?
This is the approach suggested to me on the thread and it does indeed seem like a clever way to go.
3) Active "line level" crossovers that are just like the above, but use active filters and are therefore more adjustable.
Never seen those, would be interested to look at them.
If you can use #3, there are literally dozens of used pro-audio models on ebay that would XO at 80hz and may work with your system. Some are portable, others are meant for studio or home use.
But there are still unanswered questions:
Do you have at least 3 channels of amplification? Are you using the JBL amp or not?
No the JBL wastes energy through heat, it's warm even at idle, so it doesn't seem like an efficient way to go for a battery powered system (to me, an idiot)
If not, are you trying to drive 2 channels from 80hz on up and 1 mono sub all with the Alpine amp?
No I'm going to feed a mono signal to the amp, and then use one channel for the sub, and one channel for the 2x 8ohm speakers. Two channels in total. The Alpine PDX 2.150 is capable of this configuration
Or are the "main" speakers powered so the Alpine will just drive the sub?
1 channel for the 2x speakers, the other channel for the sub.
You also need to specify what you are putting in front of the amps. Is it a preamp with an XLR or RCA output or some other thing (like a BT device, or some sort of digital music player). Not all of these sources have the same compatibility with xover choices above.
Please see diagram, and thanks )
Ludcam since you were so kind as to take an interest, I have made this diagram and will attempt to answer your questions below
bear in mind I'm not the brightest when it comes to electronics of any description -
_____________________________________________________________
There are basically three types of crossovers:
1) Passive "high level" crossovers that come between the amplifier and the speaker's drive units. This is the most common approach.
This is what i thought initially, but 2ohm 80Hz crossovers that can handle 150 watts are hard to find apparently.
2) Passive "line level" crossovers that come between the line level source and the amplifiers driving the speakers
line level... that's why I made the diagram, is the output from the bluetooth receiver even going to be line level?
This is the approach suggested to me on the thread and it does indeed seem like a clever way to go.
3) Active "line level" crossovers that are just like the above, but use active filters and are therefore more adjustable.
Never seen those, would be interested to look at them.
If you can use #3, there are literally dozens of used pro-audio models on ebay that would XO at 80hz and may work with your system. Some are portable, others are meant for studio or home use.
But there are still unanswered questions:
Do you have at least 3 channels of amplification? Are you using the JBL amp or not?
No the JBL wastes energy through heat, it's warm even at idle, so it doesn't seem like an efficient way to go for a battery powered system (to me, an idiot)
If not, are you trying to drive 2 channels from 80hz on up and 1 mono sub all with the Alpine amp?
No I'm going to feed a mono signal to the amp, and then use one channel for the sub, and one channel for the 2x 8ohm speakers. Two channels in total. The Alpine PDX 2.150 is capable of this configuration
Or are the "main" speakers powered so the Alpine will just drive the sub?
1 channel for the 2x speakers, the other channel for the sub.
You also need to specify what you are putting in front of the amps. Is it a preamp with an XLR or RCA output or some other thing (like a BT device, or some sort of digital music player). Not all of these sources have the same compatibility with xover choices above.
Please see diagram, and thanks )
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mmmmhhh I can help for the second" device" that appears on the diagram: it's "mixer" indeed 😛
Well, mixers - as in this case the L&R channels are summed- do have the same diversification as the filters ( in this case, crossovers)
as they can be:
-passive-
-active-
The latter involves a power supply and some transistors and the usual suspects 😛
The first uses just the usual suspects, which are...
I can help you in this case...mmmmmh if you don't want to order from Mouser or other electronic suppliers, you can easily smash some old circuit board and get two resistors of the same value.
This is the first part...then they must be jointed together electrically, well, mechanically 😱
The first part will throw you in the magic realm of DIY and knowledge
Paths, joints...sounds good
😀
Well, mixers - as in this case the L&R channels are summed- do have the same diversification as the filters ( in this case, crossovers)
as they can be:
-passive-
-active-
The latter involves a power supply and some transistors and the usual suspects 😛
The first uses just the usual suspects, which are...
I can help you in this case...mmmmmh if you don't want to order from Mouser or other electronic suppliers, you can easily smash some old circuit board and get two resistors of the same value.
This is the first part...then they must be jointed together electrically, well, mechanically 😱
The first part will throw you in the magic realm of DIY and knowledge
Paths, joints...sounds good
😀
Hi picowallspeaker, appreciate your reply, as with all the replies. It's not that I'm stupid, it's just that i have things I'm good at,
and things I'm not good at, and electronics is not one of the things I'm good at.
I can build this kind of stuff all day, so its not like I'm a dummy, its just that I know my limitations.
and things I'm not good at, and electronics is not one of the things I'm good at.
I can build this kind of stuff all day, so its not like I'm a dummy, its just that I know my limitations.
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If everyone is supposed to do it themselves, and get no help from anyone else, why does this forum exist?
Hi Again
Maybe I missed what application you have in mind and how important the sound quality is.
I get the idea of converting stereo to mono, giving you 2 identical channels that you then amplify with a single 2 channel amplifier.
But why are you doing this (playing the same exact sound out of two speakers) and what types of results do you want?
Public address? DJ? Movie sound at outdoor parties? I'm assuming home hifi or studio monitoring are not the applications you have in mind...
Maybe for your application, starting with the simplest approach would give you everything you need.
You have a 4 ohm bandpass subwoofer, meaning it only passes a specific frequency range. Maybe just start by connecting it as in your diagram (and pioneer's instructions where they show use both with and without a crossover) and see what you think.
If it sounds good enough, leave it alone.
If not good enough without a crossover, I would ask:
1) Am I getting enough bass relative to the JBL speakers?
2) Am I getting a "muddy" sound in the midbass because too much high frequency is coming out of the subwoofer
If you answer "yes" to #1 and #2, just use a passive crossover.
Parts express sells a 130hz 4ohm 200W pre-made crossover for $25
Or you can just stick a 15mh laminate core inductor in series with the woofer.
Or, you can just stick this between the stereo/mono converter and the subwoofer channel:
Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 100 Hz Low Pass RCA
If you answer "no" to #1 it means that your satellite speakers (the JBLs) are too sensitive relative to the subwoofer.
But if you also answer "no" to #2 it just means that you need to turn down the volume on the satellite speakers only. Can you do this with the Alpine or the BT 12V device? If not, you need a volume pot in line with the channel driving the JBLs. You can get these all wired up on Amazon for $10-20.
If you answer "no" to both, you need a crossover solution and a way to adjust volume for the satellites. You can always use something like the FMOD (in the link I sent you) and the volume pot on the satellite channel.
Maybe I missed what application you have in mind and how important the sound quality is.
I get the idea of converting stereo to mono, giving you 2 identical channels that you then amplify with a single 2 channel amplifier.
But why are you doing this (playing the same exact sound out of two speakers) and what types of results do you want?
Public address? DJ? Movie sound at outdoor parties? I'm assuming home hifi or studio monitoring are not the applications you have in mind...
Maybe for your application, starting with the simplest approach would give you everything you need.
You have a 4 ohm bandpass subwoofer, meaning it only passes a specific frequency range. Maybe just start by connecting it as in your diagram (and pioneer's instructions where they show use both with and without a crossover) and see what you think.
If it sounds good enough, leave it alone.
If not good enough without a crossover, I would ask:
1) Am I getting enough bass relative to the JBL speakers?
2) Am I getting a "muddy" sound in the midbass because too much high frequency is coming out of the subwoofer
If you answer "yes" to #1 and #2, just use a passive crossover.
Parts express sells a 130hz 4ohm 200W pre-made crossover for $25
Or you can just stick a 15mh laminate core inductor in series with the woofer.
Or, you can just stick this between the stereo/mono converter and the subwoofer channel:
Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 100 Hz Low Pass RCA
If you answer "no" to #1 it means that your satellite speakers (the JBLs) are too sensitive relative to the subwoofer.
But if you also answer "no" to #2 it just means that you need to turn down the volume on the satellite speakers only. Can you do this with the Alpine or the BT 12V device? If not, you need a volume pot in line with the channel driving the JBLs. You can get these all wired up on Amazon for $10-20.
If you answer "no" to both, you need a crossover solution and a way to adjust volume for the satellites. You can always use something like the FMOD (in the link I sent you) and the volume pot on the satellite channel.