Probably wrong forum for this, but I like it here🙂
I got some of these little LED drivers,
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1800to1899/pdf/nte1866.pdf
I've tried to make a deadbug circuit with it just to do soem tests, but cannot seem to get it working. The pwr supply is obvious, so is the Vin...Pin7 called 'amp output' I assume is common for the LEDs.
So far I have tried the following:
1. LED's cathodes to pin7, anodes to each 'D' pin.
2. LED's anodes to pin 7, cathodes to each 'D' pin.
3. LED's cathodes to GND, anodes to each 'D' pin.
4. LED's anodes to GND, cathodes to each 'D' pin.
I used 12V for pwr, input to pin8 was both 1kHz clean input from 0-2Vrms, and DC from 0-5volts.
The only connection which gave any result was no2, but then the LEDs come on at the same time, D5 has no light. No signal, no light , barely start a signal, all LEDS on at the same time.
Anyone here used this device? I may have destroyed my test example, but before I spend any more time and replace the device I would love to get some hints.
Thanks
I got some of these little LED drivers,
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1800to1899/pdf/nte1866.pdf
I've tried to make a deadbug circuit with it just to do soem tests, but cannot seem to get it working. The pwr supply is obvious, so is the Vin...Pin7 called 'amp output' I assume is common for the LEDs.
So far I have tried the following:
1. LED's cathodes to pin7, anodes to each 'D' pin.
2. LED's anodes to pin 7, cathodes to each 'D' pin.
3. LED's cathodes to GND, anodes to each 'D' pin.
4. LED's anodes to GND, cathodes to each 'D' pin.
I used 12V for pwr, input to pin8 was both 1kHz clean input from 0-2Vrms, and DC from 0-5volts.
The only connection which gave any result was no2, but then the LEDs come on at the same time, D5 has no light. No signal, no light , barely start a signal, all LEDS on at the same time.
Anyone here used this device? I may have destroyed my test example, but before I spend any more time and replace the device I would love to get some hints.
Thanks
I used 12V for pwr, input to pin8 was both 1kHz clean input from 0-2Vrms, and DC from 0-5volts.
It says Vin(max) = 62 mV(RMS) ...
I may have destroyed my test example, but before I spend any more time and replace the device I would love to get some hints.
Unless you have very limited space I'd strongly recommend to go for proven (and seemingly less fragile) LM391x series (3916 = VU-meter). The uptside is they allow more precise display, using 10 elements rather than 5.
I agree, the LM chips seem better. I bought these a while back b/c they were cheap and plan to use them for noncritical things.
I noticed the max input as well, but I assume that's for all LEDs to light up, when it displays max signal, and that it can still handle higher signals with out being destroyed.
I slowly increased the input signal, and even though I passed the 'max' level, I kept going b/c it wasn't acting according to plan.
I think I will drop this for now, and next time get the LM chips you mentioned.
I noticed the max input as well, but I assume that's for all LEDs to light up, when it displays max signal, and that it can still handle higher signals with out being destroyed.
I slowly increased the input signal, and even though I passed the 'max' level, I kept going b/c it wasn't acting according to plan.
I think I will drop this for now, and next time get the LM chips you mentioned.
As all NTE numbers are made as a replacement parts, there is always another datesheet (for the original part), that will give you much more info, than the NTE d/s.
The original part for your NTE is BA6144. Compare.
BA6144 Datasheet pdf - LED level meter driver/ 5-point/ VU scale - ROHM
The original part for your NTE is BA6144. Compare.
BA6144 Datasheet pdf - LED level meter driver/ 5-point/ VU scale - ROHM
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