I need a pair of bookshelf speakers to sound great with vinyl ONLY, as I've already got a nice hifi system
( Denon UD-M30 with Denon made by Mission SC-M50 speakers) that I use for playing all my other music including cds and tracks on youtube, etc.
1. the aux out is already being used by the computer, so I can't attach a phono preamp to that.
2 the drivers are only pretty small(I think they are 4.5 inch mid/bass) so probably would get damaged with bass heavy music at various volumes including the occasional house party.
I have got loads of big pieces of solid 18mm (11 ply laminates) structural plywood I found when clearing out my shed the other day. Would say it's grade A/BB
I'm not a fan of MDF as the dust is so fine it's hazardous especially as I got asthma.
Hope it's suitable being A/BB and 18mm (11 ply laminates) structural plywood, there's very tiny knots on one side, but a few of the pieces have tiny gaps in one of the layer of the laminates, right at the end up of the layers which would need filling.
So I might as well use this as it's free and solid.
Drivers I've taken a fancy to for bass/mid would be the Beyma 8BR40/N or Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2 which go deep, have great xmax, pretty sensitive and handle enough power for hifi anyway.
Will need help if someone can please work out a suitable cabinet dimensions and port/s diameters for me for the given drivers above which would be most useful!
Tweeters I'd like to use would be the Monacor DT-300 with a suitable wire-wound resistor if used(or an L-pad) with the first Beyma driver to balance the sens a bit.
X-over design I'd most likely build my own using say the guide on here:
Shavano Music Online - Second Order Crossover Networks 2nd order offers better protection than first order xover.
And high quality x-over parts from say Cross-over parts • Europe Audio
Just need best on advice if that wood is suitable at all?
The enclosure dimensions including the port/s ideally to get a tuning frequency of ideally 40hz, but will settle for 45hz or 50hz if not possible.
One driver reaches 35hz the other 30hz though.
Thanks
( Denon UD-M30 with Denon made by Mission SC-M50 speakers) that I use for playing all my other music including cds and tracks on youtube, etc.
1. the aux out is already being used by the computer, so I can't attach a phono preamp to that.
2 the drivers are only pretty small(I think they are 4.5 inch mid/bass) so probably would get damaged with bass heavy music at various volumes including the occasional house party.
I have got loads of big pieces of solid 18mm (11 ply laminates) structural plywood I found when clearing out my shed the other day. Would say it's grade A/BB
I'm not a fan of MDF as the dust is so fine it's hazardous especially as I got asthma.
Hope it's suitable being A/BB and 18mm (11 ply laminates) structural plywood, there's very tiny knots on one side, but a few of the pieces have tiny gaps in one of the layer of the laminates, right at the end up of the layers which would need filling.
So I might as well use this as it's free and solid.
Drivers I've taken a fancy to for bass/mid would be the Beyma 8BR40/N or Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2 which go deep, have great xmax, pretty sensitive and handle enough power for hifi anyway.
Will need help if someone can please work out a suitable cabinet dimensions and port/s diameters for me for the given drivers above which would be most useful!
Tweeters I'd like to use would be the Monacor DT-300 with a suitable wire-wound resistor if used(or an L-pad) with the first Beyma driver to balance the sens a bit.
X-over design I'd most likely build my own using say the guide on here:
Shavano Music Online - Second Order Crossover Networks 2nd order offers better protection than first order xover.
And high quality x-over parts from say Cross-over parts • Europe Audio
Just need best on advice if that wood is suitable at all?
The enclosure dimensions including the port/s ideally to get a tuning frequency of ideally 40hz, but will settle for 45hz or 50hz if not possible.
One driver reaches 35hz the other 30hz though.
Thanks
Forget about the Beyma 8BR40/N for now. It will require large volume enclosures.
Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2, use this woofer in a 50L@30Hz. A reflex might be a good use of this driver for your application.
Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2 reference sensitivity: 88.8 dB/2.83V/m
Port: 9.4cm x 39cm
Use this crossover as your starting point for your 2-Way with Monacor DT-300 tweeter.
Use one type of variable attenuators in place of R3/R4 for calibration of the tweeter output.
AT-52H
Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2, use this woofer in a 50L@30Hz. A reflex might be a good use of this driver for your application.
Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2 reference sensitivity: 88.8 dB/2.83V/m
Port: 9.4cm x 39cm
Use this crossover as your starting point for your 2-Way with Monacor DT-300 tweeter.
Use one type of variable attenuators in place of R3/R4 for calibration of the tweeter output.
AT-52H
Attachments
Hi,
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/amiga
That crossover page is garbage, don't use it.
If you must have a bookshelf (and stands) :
Zaph|Audio - ZA-SR71
Parts from Falcon Acoustics | The Leading DIY Speaker Parts and Kit Supplier since 1972
very budget stuff : search e-pray for :
Speaker Kit 5 : 2x Peerless M16NH + 2x Monacor DT25N + 2x Crossovers NEW
Speaker Kit 3 : 2x Peerless SKO204PP + 2x Monacor DT99 + 2x Crossovers NEW
rgds, sreten.
YMMV but if you want a 8" bass unit, knocking up an
Audionote AN-E style cabinet and stands out of your
18mm ply is not a bad idea with the latter kit.
Very cheap and cheerful, great value, but not great.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/amiga
That crossover page is garbage, don't use it.
If you must have a bookshelf (and stands) :
Zaph|Audio - ZA-SR71
Parts from Falcon Acoustics | The Leading DIY Speaker Parts and Kit Supplier since 1972
very budget stuff : search e-pray for :
Speaker Kit 5 : 2x Peerless M16NH + 2x Monacor DT25N + 2x Crossovers NEW
Speaker Kit 3 : 2x Peerless SKO204PP + 2x Monacor DT99 + 2x Crossovers NEW
rgds, sreten.
YMMV but if you want a 8" bass unit, knocking up an
Audionote AN-E style cabinet and stands out of your
18mm ply is not a bad idea with the latter kit.
Very cheap and cheerful, great value, but not great.
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Looking good, thanks!!!
As that's a different woofer I choose than the one in the design, how will it work and fit in the given design though?
Hi,
Value wise that Beyma driver gets nowhere near close
to the complete cheap 8" kit I recommended, (which
is £78 delivered in the UK for all drivers and the x/o's).
In any sense the Peerless is no worse than the Beyma,
or not much for a hell of a lot less, YMMV for reality.
I may have my doubts about the x/o's, but not half
as much as your very wrong x/o design plans.
Here take the path of least and budget resistance.
rgds, sreten.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20090902124715/http://geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/DesigningXO.htm
Value wise that Beyma driver gets nowhere near close
to the complete cheap 8" kit I recommended, (which
is £78 delivered in the UK for all drivers and the x/o's).
In any sense the Peerless is no worse than the Beyma,
or not much for a hell of a lot less, YMMV for reality.
I may have my doubts about the x/o's, but not half
as much as your very wrong x/o design plans.
Here take the path of least and budget resistance.
rgds, sreten.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20090902124715/http://geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/DesigningXO.htm
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Yeah, that's just speculation 😉
As far as you don't know the special driver very well and your expertise and
memory ( ??) can't lead you to the right direction...well, many drivers..!
It could ( remotely) happen that the tweeter is less efficient in that situation..who knows ?
A pair of L-pads are a good choice for a start; I wonder which kind of power rating I may choose, if 10 or 20 W 😕
Or maybe a set of 0,5-5 Ω resistors
Or an acoustically covering grille on the tweeter😛
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Hi,
is not speculation using that page for the x/o will be very wrong.
rgds, sreten.
ooohh, did Inductor suggested it 😕
I think he was referring to the tweeter, as it asks some minimum care for not getting burnt.
Indeed, it ( the online calculator) might work just for that, being the tw a manageable device- different from woofer...
So Inductor's advice should be taken with a pinch of salt 'cos nobody's going to make a complete introduction to ...well...er..system theory 😱
BTW the other day I've lost "my practical advice" given in my 2nd post...lost.
I was just thinking of the availabilty of the waveguide device for the Monacor DT 300, so a little investigation...😛😱
I think he was referring to the tweeter, as it asks some minimum care for not getting burnt.
Indeed, it ( the online calculator) might work just for that, being the tw a manageable device- different from woofer...
So Inductor's advice should be taken with a pinch of salt 'cos nobody's going to make a complete introduction to ...well...er..system theory 😱
BTW the other day I've lost "my practical advice" given in my 2nd post...lost.
I was just thinking of the availabilty of the waveguide device for the Monacor DT 300, so a little investigation...😛😱
Pfft...you don't really sound like you have much idea where you are going on this, my friend! Never mind any experience... 😀
The Beyma units are High Efficiency, but the 95dB 8WOOFER-P-V2 looks more manageable: http://www.beyma.com/uploads/ftp/Fichas_Tecnicas/000002934.pdf
The 100dB Beyma 8BR40/N is altogether too rough and ready and loud IMO:
http://www.beyma.de/fileadmin/seiten/download/pdf/Beyma_2010/8BR40N.pdf
Here's your homework: High Efficiency Speakers
I could suggest a half dozen woofers that might be doable, but your main issue is going to be getting the tweeter loud enough if you go high efficiency. That and getting a crossover that works. Troels Gravesen will give you some ideas though. It's a very good article. 🙂
I ran his filter up the flagpole for interest. I used a more conventional tweeter filter. It pushes the tweeter I used here very hard, but I like his idea of a low BSC coil with a 12R bypass. It's valve friendly.
The Beyma units are High Efficiency, but the 95dB 8WOOFER-P-V2 looks more manageable: http://www.beyma.com/uploads/ftp/Fichas_Tecnicas/000002934.pdf
The 100dB Beyma 8BR40/N is altogether too rough and ready and loud IMO:
http://www.beyma.de/fileadmin/seiten/download/pdf/Beyma_2010/8BR40N.pdf
Here's your homework: High Efficiency Speakers
I could suggest a half dozen woofers that might be doable, but your main issue is going to be getting the tweeter loud enough if you go high efficiency. That and getting a crossover that works. Troels Gravesen will give you some ideas though. It's a very good article. 🙂
I ran his filter up the flagpole for interest. I used a more conventional tweeter filter. It pushes the tweeter I used here very hard, but I like his idea of a low BSC coil with a 12R bypass. It's valve friendly.
Attachments
2-way crossover for Beyma 8WOOFER/P-V2 + Monacor DT-300
L1 is a 14 AWG 1,6 mm 0,34 ohm DCR.
C1=22uF
C3=8.20uF
R4=3R3
You can use R3/R4 for padding the tweeter or use the variable attenuator instead. 😀
Check the new components values.
L1 is a 14 AWG 1,6 mm 0,34 ohm DCR.
C1=22uF
C3=8.20uF
R4=3R3
You can use R3/R4 for padding the tweeter or use the variable attenuator instead. 😀
Attachments
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