My problem is multifacetet, but I think chipamp category fits best. I have a work laptop as a source and I used a pair of small DIY 4" full-range speakers for Teams and background music. I've been powering them with a small, single TPA3116 based amp. I occasionally use this amp to power other speakers, including experimental DML speakers, and there it clearly runs out of power. I've been planning on adding a dsp unit, which would require even more power if boosting bass. In my case I cannot use the source computer as software DSP, it must be an independent device.
Right now I have unemployed Raspberry Pi 4B and a Zero 2 W, both of which have more than enough CPU to run a few filters. But what should I hook them down to? There are a few options.
Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W
Now bear in mind that even thou this is very low-fi system for very low-fi requirements, I value good performance and would like to have a unit that's capable to run some more demanding speakers when traveling to the lake side on holidays. I'm budget aware, but not budget limited. I'd like to keep price of new purchases at or less than 150 € unless there is a very good reason to spend more. I'm open to consider any reasonable suggestions. I'm mostly contemplating between Hifiberry amp and going to buy a more powerful chipamp with a cheap DAC hat for the Zero or use the 4B with USB dongle DAC that I have.
Right now I have unemployed Raspberry Pi 4B and a Zero 2 W, both of which have more than enough CPU to run a few filters. But what should I hook them down to? There are a few options.
Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W
- Has only one usable USB port and it must go to the source computer. The other port is for decoration only (or power, but so it the first port).
- Can be powered through the source USB port or through a hat.
- Output is limited to hats, because of the USB port configurations. A DAC or an integrated amplifier hat.
- Small and runs cool.
- One usable USB-OTG port for source. Hosts 4 USB ports for output.
- Needs external power supply or can be powered through the hat. The current draw is too big for powering only through the source USB host. USB 3.0 is rated for 900 mA, with my computer it works, but the system was not that stable. It also takes under-clocking to reduce power draw.
- To use the only USB-OTG port for powering and connection, it takes a power-data split cable, USB-C power source, a USB power blocker to protect the source, a power switch on USB cable (optional) and a few USB cables for covering distance.
- Output can be set to hat or one of hosted USB ports.
- 4B runs too hot for my liking. Even when under-clocked to minimum.
- RPi 4B with USB DAC works.
- Either RPi model with DAC hat works.
- The number of power adapters and wire-pain increases.
- Takes more desktop space.
- Either RPi model works.
- Can be powered though the hat, makes wire management easier.
- Options for hats are very limited and often low-powered and use not-so-great chips. Most probably one of Hifiberry amps would be my choice.
- The problem is that there is very little data, reviews or shared experiences about these devices. Are people using them "happily ever after" or did they end up in recycling them?
- Not pretty, but would satisfy the tech geek side of me 🙃
- The only considerable options that I've found are the JAB5 and it's Dayton copy KABD-4100.
- Same problems as with amp hats.
- It's got it's own DSP, but no other form of lossless digital input.
Now bear in mind that even thou this is very low-fi system for very low-fi requirements, I value good performance and would like to have a unit that's capable to run some more demanding speakers when traveling to the lake side on holidays. I'm budget aware, but not budget limited. I'd like to keep price of new purchases at or less than 150 € unless there is a very good reason to spend more. I'm open to consider any reasonable suggestions. I'm mostly contemplating between Hifiberry amp and going to buy a more powerful chipamp with a cheap DAC hat for the Zero or use the 4B with USB dongle DAC that I have.
Pay attention to this amplifier version with DSP, supply voltage from 12V to 32V, output power from 18W to 100W on each channel.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/3-way-dsp-amp.415065/#post-7734938
If you need to have a USB input, you can use any USB to SPDIF converter.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/3-way-dsp-amp.415065/#post-7734938
If you need to have a USB input, you can use any USB to SPDIF converter.
Does anyone know what happened to Hifiberry AMP3? It's been removed from their site as if it never happened. There are a few left at resellers like the Audiophonics. The AMP3 seems to have a MA12070 and it's (marketed as) more powerful than AMP4. But why try to hide it's existence? Did it burn down houses or what?
I used one of the HiFiBerry amps on top of a Pi 4, which was then mounted on the back of a 2-way speaker along with a 24V SMPS. It was a test platform for DSP and wireless audio. The amp was OK but power seemed less than advertised. I think it was the Amp4.
There is nothing that will beat an outboard amplifier and then you can get decent power to the speakers... even a decent TPA3255 based amp (e.g. Fosi Audio, etc.) would be much better than the TPA3116 you were using.
There is nothing that will beat an outboard amplifier and then you can get decent power to the speakers... even a decent TPA3255 based amp (e.g. Fosi Audio, etc.) would be much better than the TPA3116 you were using.
For the record I decided to for a separate amp get a DAC hat for the RPi. The reasons are: Better performance/price x Watts/price and more options to choose from in general. Also I noticed that with my experimental DML speakers the TPA3116 based amp that I now have, will run out of juice with 24 V power source, so increasing that with a TPA3255 based solution should improve things. I also use it for experiments while DIYing speakers, so the separate amp should give me more flexibility.
I will just have to deal with increasing wire pain, although I'm actively looking for solutions how to reduce that. Like by thinking different power management options. Time will tell.
I will just have to deal with increasing wire pain, although I'm actively looking for solutions how to reduce that. Like by thinking different power management options. Time will tell.