Hello!
You guys I have brought at home a G 212 Ampeg guitar amplifier that looks near to mint but enerving and somehow unsetteling is the sound that it produces every time when I turn it on that consisting of an loud boom!
Is that normal? Are the main caps I suppose 2 since I did not open it up, bloated or worn out and that is why is making that loud boom? Is it repairable? Will the problem go away?
Thank you!
You guys I have brought at home a G 212 Ampeg guitar amplifier that looks near to mint but enerving and somehow unsetteling is the sound that it produces every time when I turn it on that consisting of an loud boom!
Is that normal? Are the main caps I suppose 2 since I did not open it up, bloated or worn out and that is why is making that loud boom? Is it repairable? Will the problem go away?
Thank you!
Found it, that is a 410, don't ask!
Solid State and there is no mute or anti bang on the amplifier, so that is how it is. When you switch it off, it will emit a loud pop as the supply rails collapse. Generally louder when powered up as the power supply has full power available.
Solid State and there is no mute or anti bang on the amplifier, so that is how it is. When you switch it off, it will emit a loud pop as the supply rails collapse. Generally louder when powered up as the power supply has full power available.
I know 410 is 4 x 10, just read the prospect of presentation for theyr range of products for theyr history line of products put out for the public on avaylability to buy on choice.
I am thinking what if I trigger an On/Off switch in another case copling and decoupling the drivers after the amp is On. That would bypas mechanically the amplifier bop sound, not?
I am thinking what if I trigger an On/Off switch in another case copling and decoupling the drivers after the amp is On. That would bypas mechanically the amplifier bop sound, not?
If you use a normally open relay contact, 24Volt coil. Wire the contact in series with the loudspeaker, feed the coil with a 1k 2Watt resistor from +ve rail to ground and fit a 2k2uF 63Vollt capacitor across the coil. That will slow the contacts down to stop any noise with the CR time. Place a diode, 1N4003 or equivalent reverse biased across the resistor, this will discharge the capacitor at switch off. Cathode to +v rail!
Here is a link to the schematic for all interested.
http://bmamps.com/Schematics/ampeg/Ampeg_G212,_G410,_G412_Schematic.pdf
Turn-on thumps are common. COnsider that this amp is 40 years old, and that thump hasn't hurt it yet. I'd be inclined to think it won't hurt the amp in the future. The thumps are limited to the voltage in the system, and that is the same limit as clipping the amp. So if the amp can be run all the way up without destroying itself, it will handle the thump. So in my mind it is not a problem.
Thumps come from the power amp, but can also come from the preamp. The two EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER jacks are directly connected to the signal path at the power amp input. If you insert a shorting plug into one of those jacks, you shunt the preamp out to ground. If the pop lessens, then the preamp is involved. If ther is no change in the pop, it is all power amp.
Read the notes upper right on the schematic. Check the bias setting.
http://bmamps.com/Schematics/ampeg/Ampeg_G212,_G410,_G412_Schematic.pdf
Turn-on thumps are common. COnsider that this amp is 40 years old, and that thump hasn't hurt it yet. I'd be inclined to think it won't hurt the amp in the future. The thumps are limited to the voltage in the system, and that is the same limit as clipping the amp. So if the amp can be run all the way up without destroying itself, it will handle the thump. So in my mind it is not a problem.
Thumps come from the power amp, but can also come from the preamp. The two EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER jacks are directly connected to the signal path at the power amp input. If you insert a shorting plug into one of those jacks, you shunt the preamp out to ground. If the pop lessens, then the preamp is involved. If ther is no change in the pop, it is all power amp.
Read the notes upper right on the schematic. Check the bias setting.
So just placing so to be said an on/off switch on the speakers cable and to switvh them on after a couple of secconds would be wrong?
That would work as a system without any problem. You could use an on/off switch if you wanted.
You are a life saver! I am having it done by Friday evening due to time lack and come back with a response! Btw this is the last time I am doing this but I have aGP8 and a FC100 MKII and no interconnecting RRC 6 pin for it! how should I proceed with doying this should I get 1 to 1 2 to 2 and so on on the pins or should there be a 7th one be added for the round metal casing as ground? Pics later, sorry none avaylable right now!
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