Peter Daniel said:
My guess would be simple wet/dry sanding to 600 or 1200 grit followed by some rubbing/buffing compound or jewler's rouge.
I've put a high polish on brass and copper using the method above. Just takes a little elbow grease unless you've got a motorized buffer.
se
In case of copper, do you need any type of coating to protect it after? I'm using copper panels in my next amp.
Peter Daniel said:
Sure. Just like brass it'll start darkening. If you want something permanent, you'll need to go with something like a hot dip lacquer, but otherwise a coat of paste wax can keep it looking good for a while.
se
The slightest finger print will mark copper. The acid from the oils on your skin will begin to stain the surface and the only way to get the marks off again is more polishing. The longer the print is left, the worse it'll get. Commonly handled or touched sections will darken up really fast, rapidly ruining a uniform copper polished surface.
Although every single finger print will show up on stainless, they rub off just as easily without etching.
Copper panels MUST be laquered if they are not to look absolutely shocking.
My 2c
drew
Although every single finger print will show up on stainless, they rub off just as easily without etching.
Copper panels MUST be laquered if they are not to look absolutely shocking.
My 2c
drew
As has been mentioned before, Incralac lacquer is the only thing to use on copper based metals, and it does work.
OK OK here's a place to get it (and some damar for your speakers)
http://www.consemp.com/catalog/f.html
OK OK here's a place to get it (and some damar for your speakers)
http://www.consemp.com/catalog/f.html
I know all that about copper, but I'm after some sort of "weathered" finish. I'm not looking for shiny polished copper, as this will not much the rest of exterior. I'm afer the look you get when the copper pipes are exposed to elements and nothing can stain them anymore.
Is there a technique to achieve that type of permanent finish without further need for lacquers? I noticed that heating speeds up the proccess of getting copper oxidized. When it's evenly oxidized, it shouldn't accept stains from handling anymore.
I'm using that type of cork on the sides and frame (top, bottom and fronts) is made with copper bars.
Is there a technique to achieve that type of permanent finish without further need for lacquers? I noticed that heating speeds up the proccess of getting copper oxidized. When it's evenly oxidized, it shouldn't accept stains from handling anymore.
I'm using that type of cork on the sides and frame (top, bottom and fronts) is made with copper bars.
Attachments
Peter Daniel said:
The chassis started as a regular sheet of .090 6061 aluminum. I then sheared it to size on a sheet metal shear, and broke it into a |_| shape on a sheet metal break.
Then, I sanded with 220 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander. This left much deeper marks than I first thought. I then wet sanded with 800, 1000, and 2000 grit wet sandpaper. After that, I started hand rubbing using a regular O'Cello (cellulose) sponge and Blue Coral liquid metal polish. This came from Wal-Mart. I repeated this process 12-15 times.
This is certainly possible with copper and brass, just start with the 1000 grit paper. Once you get the finish you want, clean VERY well with mineral spirits to clean up all the residue that the metal polish leaves. Then clean with a good spray-n-wipe cleaner. Rinse well with water, and dry thoroughly. I then wiped with alcohol to do a fine de-grease.
Next, I would appyly a clear laquer, probably a spray. Let dry well, then spray again. Then wet sand with some 1000 grit paper, and spray again. Finally, polish with a paste type auto polishing compound. This is finer than rubbing compound, but has more abrasives than regular wax. I did this with a copper J-Pole ham radio antenna and it looked great outdoors for years.
I watched an artist accelerate the patina on some copper leaf that he had applied to a wall he was painting. He had a couple of spray bottles different strengths of mild acids in them. It was a long time ago but I think he told me he was using copper sulfate (is that an acid?) and some kind of vinegar. He was defiantly gong for a green patina witch I think is more extreme than you are looking for.
To experiment, you could try polishing up some pennies and dropping them in glasses with different concentrations.
To experiment, you could try polishing up some pennies and dropping them in glasses with different concentrations.
Peter Daniel said:
http://www.coscosci.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm
has recipes for every finish you could imagine.
I've heard that if you just take it outside and pee
on it, then leave it out for a few days, you'll get what you're looking for. I have not verified this, nor do I plan to. You might try a mild vinegar solution then bake at 200 F several times.Nik
Variac said:
Automotive spray-can clear coat will work fine, as long as you allow it to dry well between coats, and lighty wet sand between coats.
Incralac has special chemical properties which preserve the finish. Might be overkill for indoor use but it drives me crazy when stuff oxadozes under the lacquer. Love hte patina info as an architect I've been searching for this.
My browser filter stuck this in the SPAM folder due to the title!
My browser filter stuck this in the SPAM folder due to the title!
MantramAudio,
How do you deal with fingerprints? I've noticed that the non-anodized aluminum I've worked picks these up very easily. The glossier the finish, the more visible. 🙁
How do you deal with fingerprints? I've noticed that the non-anodized aluminum I've worked picks these up very easily. The glossier the finish, the more visible. 🙁
Peter, just to let you know, there exist a similar stuff to alodine but for copper. I was using it when I was working in a plating / anodizing shop....I just need to remember what was the name...It used very frequenly on microwave telecommunication equipment to protect from corrosion.
I will try to find the name of the stuff.
Francois Gregoire
I will try to find the name of the stuff.
Francois Gregoire
WOW! Nice Work!
Hi MantramAudio,
Very, very tasty!! Where did you source the fantastic looking conical feet?
Cheers
Jon
Hi MantramAudio,
Very, very tasty!! Where did you source the fantastic looking conical feet?
Cheers
Jon
Dark Shadow,
You said you worked in a anodizing/plating shop and as we live in the same city I was hoping you could tell me some places I could go to anodize some parts for an amp at reasonable prices.
My parts are somehow small anyway, 2 6"x3"x0.5" plates
Also, there seems to be a reasonable amount of diyers in montreal and its growing more and more with the popularity of the GC, it somehow introduces people to sites like diyaudio.com. And once you make one project, you somehow get addicted to diy, and can never stop and you waste all your money in it. (speaking with experience)
Anyway, we could all one day organize something nice.
Sorry for being a little offtopic here...
You said you worked in a anodizing/plating shop and as we live in the same city I was hoping you could tell me some places I could go to anodize some parts for an amp at reasonable prices.
My parts are somehow small anyway, 2 6"x3"x0.5" plates
Also, there seems to be a reasonable amount of diyers in montreal and its growing more and more with the popularity of the GC, it somehow introduces people to sites like diyaudio.com. And once you make one project, you somehow get addicted to diy, and can never stop and you waste all your money in it. (speaking with experience)
Anyway, we could all one day organize something nice.
Sorry for being a little offtopic here...
Ilianh said:
I was working for CPTech at St-Kaurent city. So have this place or there have also TNM amd verdun anodizing. All will do anodize for small part but will changer a minimum cost I think like 75$. So you should try to get lot of part or make a group buy do get down the cost.
It would also be great to organise something to meet all diy of mtl.
Btw do you know any place in mtl that sell blackgate capacitor? I got all my sample from Nation to build my GC and the rectifier but I missing the transformer and more important, the capacitor...
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