You could try a biggish cap on the + and - pole of your headunit and caramp (if any).
I used to have some whining in my car, a change to shielded RCA's and a 1F powercap fixed the problem
I used to have some whining in my car, a change to shielded RCA's and a 1F powercap fixed the problem
I have just bought a surpressor 3 farads. Which connects to a ground then the cable from the surpressor is connected to the main output of the alternator!!!! Madness.
I#m running 4 JBL speakers on a Alpine MRPT130
And
A Subwoofer running on a Alpine MRV - T707
Will a SURPRESSOR sort the problem out?
Also what about Dimming of lights???? How will i sort that out.
I#m running 4 JBL speakers on a Alpine MRPT130
And
A Subwoofer running on a Alpine MRV - T707
Will a SURPRESSOR sort the problem out?
Also what about Dimming of lights???? How will i sort that out.
The big cap stops the lights from dimming, since the atternator/battery doesn't see the full load of the amp
Engine Wine
Well, to solve your problem...filters or chokes are just bandaids. You have a ground loop somewere in your system. Find the problem first. Check all your grounds, clean up the connections etc. make sure all of your amp grounds connect at the same point...not the battery (clean batt terms/add/cleanup ground strap connections). Also, make sure your using proper signal cables, shielded...away from sources that could give noise...comps/large wiring harnesses etc.
Also, make sure that your gains are adjusted correctly. Make sure no speaker wires are shorting to ground. Check connections at your headunit.
Rino
Well, to solve your problem...filters or chokes are just bandaids. You have a ground loop somewere in your system. Find the problem first. Check all your grounds, clean up the connections etc. make sure all of your amp grounds connect at the same point...not the battery (clean batt terms/add/cleanup ground strap connections). Also, make sure your using proper signal cables, shielded...away from sources that could give noise...comps/large wiring harnesses etc.
Also, make sure that your gains are adjusted correctly. Make sure no speaker wires are shorting to ground. Check connections at your headunit.
Rino
Re: Engine Wine
Actually, the battery is the best place... Your going to have a hard time connecting everything to a single point on the chasis... So what if you have to run a few extra feet of power cable.. it should solve all your problems...
Rino odorico said:
Actually, the battery is the best place... Your going to have a hard time connecting everything to a single point on the chasis... So what if you have to run a few extra feet of power cable.. it should solve all your problems...
mcyates said:
If thats a capacitor, then chances are no..... A capacitor and a choke might.... or one of those filters designed to remove noise... I'm not too sure whats in them... 🙄 But, if you have a ground loop, then, you could try a ground loop isolator (if ya lazy) or fix the problem properly.. 🙂 lol
Well I have checked ALL the cable about 1,000 times as i kept losing my left front and back speakers. They would just die when the volume was low, but when i turned it up loud they came back on. There was nothing wrong with the cable or connections. So i have today bough a new amp £99.99 Alpine - T130.
Grounding the system at the Batt.
I would not suggest to run the amp grounds to the batt. Yes, the batt is the best source for ground (it is the source), but unless you mount your amp under the hood, running ground cables will add to your problems...lengthening grounds add resistance...ground loops...different current paths...meaning noise.
You mentioned about the system cutting out at low volumes...sound like a connection problem to me. Cold solder joint or a short somewhere.
Rino
I would not suggest to run the amp grounds to the batt. Yes, the batt is the best source for ground (it is the source), but unless you mount your amp under the hood, running ground cables will add to your problems...lengthening grounds add resistance...ground loops...different current paths...meaning noise.
You mentioned about the system cutting out at low volumes...sound like a connection problem to me. Cold solder joint or a short somewhere.
Rino
it would benefit you to be sure to run the RCA's away from the power wire. If they are run next to each other in parallel there is no stopping the whine noise. The best idea is to run the remote and power on one side of the car, and hte RCA's down the middle of the car or on teh other side of the car. It alos helps a lot if you are sure to run the RCA's flat agaisnt the metal floorboard as that seems to act like a shield. If I was a betting man I would put the odds at 90% that your power and RCA's are right next to each other .
Re: Grounding the system at the Batt.
Well.... if you ask me (which you didn't) I don't think you will be adding any resistance, more likely reducing it... you have no idea how good your chosen ground point really is.. 🙄 Umm, I don't see how you can get ground loops with EVERYTHING grounded to the same place... Different current paths... to what??
NO NOISE!!
Rino odorico said:
Well.... if you ask me (which you didn't) I don't think you will be adding any resistance, more likely reducing it... you have no idea how good your chosen ground point really is.. 🙄 Umm, I don't see how you can get ground loops with EVERYTHING grounded to the same place... Different current paths... to what??
NO NOISE!!
well the problem was from the amp to the speakers as I I checked everything from the head unit to the amp. Is was the (White = right speaker socket) socket for the amp which had the problem. I put the right speker plug into it and it didn't work, the left speaker plug into it and it didn't work. But both the plugs ran on the (Red = Left Speaker socket.)
Also both speaker connections worked and the then they both didn't work when going through the amp via the right speakers!!!
Also both speaker connections worked and the then they both didn't work when going through the amp via the right speakers!!!
Jared said:
Too true... Only problem is that in newer cars wires run EVERYWHERE!!! I ran my audio libe through the roof of the car... 🙄 LOL... The first audio cable I used wasn't even shielded... I had a few problems... especially seeing it was running right next to the wires to the tails lights and still.. lol 🙄 hmm..
My last post on this subject
My last post on the subject.
Skinny Boy...not to get into it with, this is not my intention. But, to answer your post. You mentioned to run all ground cables to the batt. Yes the batt is the best place to ground...it's the source. But if this is done, the cable resistance will add...longer cable means more resistance. Different resistance means different current. Also, longer cables will/can act as inductors/mics...posib. of adding noise again.
Finding your resistance for ground is simple. Measure it with a multi meter. Find the lowest spot near your amp. To do so, first measure the resistance of the lengthend wire (used to get black lead to the batt) then subtract that from your findings.
To make things even better when connecting grounds...use the STAR meathod.
Rino
My last post on the subject.
Skinny Boy...not to get into it with, this is not my intention. But, to answer your post. You mentioned to run all ground cables to the batt. Yes the batt is the best place to ground...it's the source. But if this is done, the cable resistance will add...longer cable means more resistance. Different resistance means different current. Also, longer cables will/can act as inductors/mics...posib. of adding noise again.
Finding your resistance for ground is simple. Measure it with a multi meter. Find the lowest spot near your amp. To do so, first measure the resistance of the lengthend wire (used to get black lead to the batt) then subtract that from your findings.
To make things even better when connecting grounds...use the STAR meathod.
Rino
what are the best connections to use. I am currently using the Terminal Blocks. I will take some photos tomorrow. Its a mess. but i will take some anyway and post them on here so you can help me out.
If you don't mind?
If you don't mind?
Re: My last post on this subject
Yes, but connecting your amp to the chasis at the back of the car, and your headunit to the battery at the front, and then connecting a ground from one to the other is going to create a ground loop.... right?? lol... I just like arguing my point.. lol
Use 4GA wire... it has a Current Capacity of 110A and 0.00097ohms per metre resistance.... so, if you use say 12metres?? thats a resistance of 0.01164 ohms.... Good luck at measuring a lower resistance than this through the chasis with a standard multimeter..
🙄
Rino odorico said:
Yes, but connecting your amp to the chasis at the back of the car, and your headunit to the battery at the front, and then connecting a ground from one to the other is going to create a ground loop.... right?? lol... I just like arguing my point.. lol
Use 4GA wire... it has a Current Capacity of 110A and 0.00097ohms per metre resistance.... so, if you use say 12metres?? thats a resistance of 0.01164 ohms.... Good luck at measuring a lower resistance than this through the chasis with a standard multimeter..
🙄
Are you using one of those small automotive type capacitors that have a mounting tab and one wire, that connects from the alternator output terminal to the alternator frame? Like *right at* the alternator with very short wires? These can be useful.
I have never tried one but they are the standard first-thing to do. I don't have a sound system in the car; for me driving time is thinking time. Mowing the grass time is thinking time too.
Something I just thought of - does the main positive feed for your sound system connect to the battery terminal or to the alternator output connection? Connecting directly to the battery would be a quieter point than the alternator because the battery impedance would damp the whine a bit like a large capacitor.
Something I just thought of - does the main positive feed for your sound system connect to the battery terminal or to the alternator output connection? Connecting directly to the battery would be a quieter point than the alternator because the battery impedance would damp the whine a bit like a large capacitor.
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