Are Alpair 10.3/10P/12PW discontinued? The reason for asking is all the drivers are now under archive section on the web: https://www.markaudio.com/Shop-category/archive/
If yes, is MAOP 10 recommended successor driver?
If yes, is MAOP 10 recommended successor driver?
Moving those models to the archive would mean that MA has discontinued them. I know the 12PW is discontinued. The only 10 cm available is the MAOP10. You could contact MA to confirm. The MAOP 10 is based on the Pluvia, so it could be discontinued too once stock runs out. I wouldn't be basing a new build on a 10 cm MA driver unless MIA confirms new designs are coming.
Thanks for pointing that out, as I was considering the MAOP 10 for a new build.
Thanks for pointing that out, as I was considering the MAOP 10 for a new build.
Maop 10 is based on Alpair 10.2 and it seems that od also ended. There is some stock on few stores, but not on MA site
All three show still in stock at KJFAudio for anyone looking to buy. https://kjfaudio.com/product-catego.../full-range-drivers/markaudio-drivers/page/2/
jeff
Officially this are all NLA, get them while you can.
I would expect that new simialr drivers, but in the new baskets.
For instance i understand the CHR-90 is derived from the A10, the Pluvia 7HD is a reworking of the A7.3.
The tooling for the old big bezel driver baskets have to be wearing out.
Note that new drivers based on the old Alpairs have also had a name demotion (all Alpairs moving to mono-suspension?) and whikle before the model range would largely define quality that is not really true now.
A12pw was just underappreciated and didn’t sell well.
dave
I would expect that new simialr drivers, but in the new baskets.
For instance i understand the CHR-90 is derived from the A10, the Pluvia 7HD is a reworking of the A7.3.
The tooling for the old big bezel driver baskets have to be wearing out.
Note that new drivers based on the old Alpairs have also had a name demotion (all Alpairs moving to mono-suspension?) and whikle before the model range would largely define quality that is not really true now.
A12pw was just underappreciated and didn’t sell well.
dave
Sad new as I was thinking that my next build would be using a pair of 12PW crossed over at around 10kHz. I just purchased a pair of 10Ps (my first MA drivers) and have been playing around with them in a larger (almost 50L) stand mount bass reflex cabinet. They are amazing drivers: easy on the ears but with better mid detail than my multi driver speakers.
@planet10 Curious to know if there is an agreed upon port tuning frequency for the 10P in a (large) bass reflex cabinet? Also thanks for your many informative post here on FR drivers. They have been very helpful!!
@planet10 Curious to know if there is an agreed upon port tuning frequency for the 10P in a (large) bass reflex cabinet? Also thanks for your many informative post here on FR drivers. They have been very helpful!!
I wouldn’t put A10p in anything bigger than 20 litres. Optimum MiniOnken is 17 litres.
Anything larger would need to be a quarterwave design.
I had a look, to get a 50 litre reflex to behave tunign needs to go below 20 Hz, here 15Hz. The 23 litre sealed box gives essentially the same performance, anmd given bigger bixes are harder to build probably better.
dave
Anything larger would need to be a quarterwave design.
I had a look, to get a 50 litre reflex to behave tunign needs to go below 20 Hz, here 15Hz. The 23 litre sealed box gives essentially the same performance, anmd given bigger bixes are harder to build probably better.
dave
With regards to the 10Ps in QW designs, they certainly worked well in the two that I built and lived with for a while - Pensil and FrugalHorn XL. While the relative merits of floorstanders vs standmount / mini- monitors / bookshelf designs - whatever you want to call them - can be debated, and even though I’ve owned many examples of each type over the years, when I started building, I always inclined towards the former.
Thank you for your reply! OK, forgive me as I'm just getting started on speaker building, but can you explain what you mean by getting the cabinet to "behave"?
My thinking with the cabinet is to support the range of something like 35-80Hz (which covers approximately the first octave including the drop D tuning of a bass.) Here is a calculation for a 44L (which is what I just measured my cabinet to be) tuned to 35 Hz using the Alpair 10P specs (Fs, Qts, & Vas):
For a 20L cab with a 45 Hz tuning:
Seems you get a nice benefit in terms of F6 and F10 (both ~10Hz lower) with just a 1-2dB loss in around 60Hz with the larger cabinet. Is there something I'm not considering? Thanks!!
My thinking with the cabinet is to support the range of something like 35-80Hz (which covers approximately the first octave including the drop D tuning of a bass.) Here is a calculation for a 44L (which is what I just measured my cabinet to be) tuned to 35 Hz using the Alpair 10P specs (Fs, Qts, & Vas):
For a 20L cab with a 45 Hz tuning:
Seems you get a nice benefit in terms of F6 and F10 (both ~10Hz lower) with just a 1-2dB loss in around 60Hz with the larger cabinet. Is there something I'm not considering? Thanks!!
Making sure the cabinet does not produce audiable resonances.
The second sim definitly looks better.
The first breaks one of my prime rukes of reflex: The first derivative of the frrequency response should not cross zero more than once.
That droop will cause the resonse to not be as audiably elegant, controlled, well behaved.
The shape of the curve is important.
dave
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