I picked up a slim subwoofer a while back. It's amazingly visually unobtrusive, sealed, with some light stuffing and not the most rigid of boxes, but it sounds rather good to my ears. I'm not thrashing the volume, just using it for a bit of reinforcement for music and movies.
It's an Artcoustic model with two Peerless 10" drivers (part number P830934, seems to be custom for Artcoustic), designed to be wall or floor mounted such that the drivers face the wall or floor with a standoff of 30mm/1.2". Overall dimensions are 500x500x140mm. There's a bypassable low pass crossover set to 120Hz. The wall mounting helps with keeping it unobtrusive, and having the drivers face the wall negates any need for a grille to keep it safe from kids and pets.
What I want to do is create a second similar sub for the other channel in this room, and maybe a third one to use in another room. Given the unusual dimensions, number of drivers and wall-facing arrangement, what do I need to consider? Never having built a sub before I have no idea even how to plug a two driver arrangement into most box calculation tools, let alone understand the wall-facing loading arrangement!
All advice gratefully received - see attached photos for a better idea of the sub I'm using as a model.
It's an Artcoustic model with two Peerless 10" drivers (part number P830934, seems to be custom for Artcoustic), designed to be wall or floor mounted such that the drivers face the wall or floor with a standoff of 30mm/1.2". Overall dimensions are 500x500x140mm. There's a bypassable low pass crossover set to 120Hz. The wall mounting helps with keeping it unobtrusive, and having the drivers face the wall negates any need for a grille to keep it safe from kids and pets.
What I want to do is create a second similar sub for the other channel in this room, and maybe a third one to use in another room. Given the unusual dimensions, number of drivers and wall-facing arrangement, what do I need to consider? Never having built a sub before I have no idea even how to plug a two driver arrangement into most box calculation tools, let alone understand the wall-facing loading arrangement!
All advice gratefully received - see attached photos for a better idea of the sub I'm using as a model.
You can eliminate that dip by using a tactile transducer 😛
BTW I once did a similar low depth sub ( one peerless 8" and the same -without magnet- used as a passive ) but didn't think about the wall facing speakers. I did reconvert the same units into a smaller cube, which worked better.
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