Active Ultra-Compact Near-Field Monitors and Subwoofer

Peerless SDS-135F25CP05-04 can be used to make very small satelites. 10L sealed gives a 72Hz F3, so easy to cross to a sub, and it can be crossed on top to about 2kHz with a relative steep filter (but as you use dsp...). It's a very good and cheap driver, but hard to get outside wholesale from Peerless. But the dutch site Sound Import seems to have regular stock (now 2 left, next delivery in september). Digikey have them also here (i don't know in India).

For tweeter i would probally look at the SB Acoustic Satori TW29BN. It's made in Indonesia so not so far off and as i hear, easy to get in India. It's also the best Berrillium tweeter i know. I like them more than the Bliesma T34B (the other one i heared). And you can cross them right in the right region to that Peerless woofer (arround 2kHz). I would not use berrillium altough, it's to brittle for me. I'm more fond of tweeters like the SB26ADC that are smoother.

For sub, small is hard, and here Dayton is hard to beat, the RS210HF can get a 15L case and with eq get 30Hz flat to 94db before running out of xmax. And those don't sound bad or distorted at all (or not more than high end brands subwoofer that go low). Smaller that low you won't find i think. The SB23MFCL45 is also a great subwoofer, but need a few times that volume to go that low.

DSP and amps need to be found after the speaker design i think, but MiniDSP and Ncore (Fusion or not) or Icepower amps can bring you far. Even a wel executed LM3886 chipamp probally could. Many monitors actuallty have those chipamps in them and sound right for their purpose. As long as the amp is neutral and low noise it does not matter what topology it has.
 
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You need to cross higher, but can use it in half the size of the CP05. This is a quick sim from both...

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Have you thought about going three-way (plus sub)? Have a look at this very compact solution in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...the-reference-mini-post-mortem-thread.340260/
I am doing a similar design with a cheaper tweeter (scan, but not beryllium) and cheaper woofers. The mids would be very clean (not having to do bass duty), and you would not have any difficulties integrating with a subwoofer (if a sub is actually needed).

The Minidsp Flex 8 is a very neat solution that I am about to use. It has Dsp, dac, volume control, and digital input selectors - even Bluetooth - all rolled into one package. six channels for three-way, two spare for subs.

I have also made a 6xamp with hypex UCD180hxr sharing the same heat sink for compactness. Was this what you were thinking?
 
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For sub, small is hard, and here Dayton is hard to beat, the RS210HF can get a 15L case and with eq get 30Hz flat to 94db before running out of xmax. And those don't sound bad or distorted at all (or not more than high end brands subwoofer that go low). Smaller that low you won't find i think. The SB23MFCL45 is also a great subwoofer, but need a few times that volume to go that low.
Are you not talking about the RSS210HO? The SB23 requires 12 liters to equal it at 30Hz and below, but the RSS210 indeed only requires 9.5 liters for the same Q of 0.707. If car audio counts, you have subs like the ESX QE822 that have basically the same output at only 5 liters, but I'm sure the Dayton wins in sound quality.
Another alternative is using two of the Dayton E150HE - tiny bit more output, slightly lower Q, benefits of dual-opposed, Klippel-verified excursion in the same volume.
 
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Going with the following for the first iteration: -

1. Full Range: 2 * Sica 4 C 1,5 CP Coaxial.

2. Sub-Woofer: 1 * Dayton Audio RS210HF.

3. Enclosures: Closed, MDF, CNC machined.

4. Amplifier: 2 * Dayton Audio KABD-4100 with built-in DSP (cascaded mode, though not sure how to bridge one set of outputs for driving the sub).

5. Power Supply: HDPlex AC-DC 400 (to start with).

6. Chassis: Hammond.

Thanks mates for all the suggestions for arriving at the above.
 
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Why did you settle for the Sica? You thought about top nontch Purify and Beryllium (=Bliesma T25B) combination - the Sica is far from that.
There are not many Coax out there which don't have dips and chancellations on axis - an in the nearfiel you hear that! (Like every Seas I know personal).
KEF did it right, Genelec The Ones are also perfect.
 
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IamJF, the Sica Coax seem to be finding its way in some studio monitors, as pointed out by FM here. Seemed a very good value proposition that way, as it would address the itch to try out a Coax. I am aware that it may not be of that quality, but costs way lesser, and hence went from cheaper amplifiers and DSP to match (from Hypex + miniDSP to Dayton). The overall project cost is down to 1/3, leaving me lot more funds for other R&D :cool:
 
@Rokytheman:

Will crossover the sub high and DSP out the loss of mid-bass from the Sica in a sealed enclosure, since application requires low SPL only. Adding a woofer will increase the size and defeat the purpose of the build. Have heard that the Dayton Sub does well right up to woofer frequency range...

Special thanks to @waxx, the Dayton Sub seems unbeatable for the intended application.

If that does not sound good, will vent the Sica, extending down to 120Hz in ~2L.

If that too fails, will revert to better driver selection, as have budget left for that, followed by amplifier upgrade. As such the valued inputs of @IamJF above have almost relegated my current selection to a Plan-B which will happen to get executed before Plan-A!!

That said, I somehow do feel that the requirement at hand will be best served by a Coax, though a good one and possibly something better than the Sica if we can find one.

Anyways mates, do let the guidance and suggestions flow in, as the project is far from closed or even frozen. Its a great learning experience for me interacting with the helpful and experienced FMs here. Do not mind iterations and experimentation with the motto "fail fast and fail cheap", and therefore cheapest options get executed first!!
 
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Most if the time such subwoofer with relative High MMS will Sound better and improve even further the lower you cross (50-80 hz with LR24 filter). In theory it could cross at 200 hz. In practice most if the time it sounds muddy at 200 hz (This is being polite).

Think the small Sica is good, but I would not let it play Down to the sub.

I think you didnt mention max liters of you main speakers?