I would like to convert a passive speaker to active one using chip amplifier.
It's a PA two ways system with 100W bass driver and 50W tweeter (all 8 ohms).
So, power stay on single chip amp range, allowing compact design.
I have a few questions,
thanks
It's a PA two ways system with 100W bass driver and 50W tweeter (all 8 ohms).
So, power stay on single chip amp range, allowing compact design.
I have a few questions,
- in order to not reinvent the wheel, do someone already explore this design ?
- I think of TDA7293 but is it the best answer ?
- Among all circuits designs, is there a design more appropriate for this use ?
thanks
A single TDA7293 is under-powered for your use.
However, 2 pcs of TDA7293 in modular configuration will give you 70W into 8 ohms or 125W into 4 ohms.
Bridging 2 units will give you 250W into 8 ohms.
However, 2 pcs of TDA7293 in modular configuration will give you 70W into 8 ohms or 125W into 4 ohms.
Bridging 2 units will give you 250W into 8 ohms.
Hello Altec9440,
Several months ago a guy took four of my kits for a similar project. You can take a look at the kits here - https://www.kaltecs.com/store/.
Drop me an email if you need any details.
Cheers,
Kaltecs
Ultra-low distortion composite audio amplifier kits and other good stuff. To learn more visit Kaltecs.com
Bridged TDA7294 plus a single one or even an LM1875 for Tweeter are a perfectly practical combination, so yes.
So a powered loudspeaker, it won’t be active unless you add an active XO and another amplifier.
dave
I think the OP is referring to a powered speaker.
That is having the amplifier inside the speaker but using the internal passive crossover.
Dave is right about active speakers. In such instances, the passive crossover is replaced by an electronic one.
So you have an electronic crossover and power amplifier inside the speaker box.
That is having the amplifier inside the speaker but using the internal passive crossover.
Dave is right about active speakers. In such instances, the passive crossover is replaced by an electronic one.
So you have an electronic crossover and power amplifier inside the speaker box.
you are right Dave, overall design will include XO and symetrical inputs. I plan to mount it on the back of speaker in some kind of heatsink case.
If designing preamp / xo is not a problem, I need help for selecting proper chip for the job. It can be any serial (STK, LM or TDA). Only power ratings (100W and 50W continuous power 8 ohms), low distorsion and safe operation all day long are mandatory.
thanks.
Hi there,
In my previous job I had to deal with Behringer and Mackie PA speakers. They were great for PA but had very poor performance as HI-FI speakers. Really poor lower and upper ends. The drivers in PA speakers are designed to have high sensitivity and extreme durability and that is all they can offer. Enclosures are not optimized for good bass performance as well.
I don't understand why to pour money in something which is already been born crippled?
Maybe the PA speakers which you're modding are exception.
It's a global upgrade. I use flightcases with 4 amplifiers and sometimes I need light system. Active speaker is simple to handle. Speakers are good for voice but need bass cubes for music. I will transform them as conference sound system and keep amplifiers for new FOH system.
As Sanyo stopped production, I will wait that fakes become better then originals 😉
WHO mentioned Hi Fi speakers?
From post #1 they are called PA speakers, unless said otherwise meant for PA duty ... which was confirmed on post #11
As of speaker classes, there are two large groups: Passive "fed ´power from a power amp" and Active, "fed signal from a preamp"
Internal active or passive crosovers, internal single or multiple power amps do not move them from one class to the other, they are still "active".
Except output power, it's exactly what I'm looking for. He also have STK...
If I can't find "all included" board, I will follow advice.
I already done this passive to active mod with SGS TDA2040 a long long time ago 🙂
Or buy an electronic crossover (https://www.xkitz.com/collections)
and pick whatever amplifiers you want…
and pick whatever amplifiers you want…
My Synergy is not suitable for your use.
It is more for speaker designers.
The highest power I have in a chip amp format is the TDA7293mod.
https://ampslab.com/tda7293mod.htm
I designed this kit for home and PA.
For higher power, it can be bridged to an incredible 250W into 8 ohms.
Coming from chip amps, that's pretty amazing.
I have a 24dB/oct crossover but I've yet to work on the web page.
It is a 2-way with a delay on board to time align the woofer to the horn.
It is more for speaker designers.
The highest power I have in a chip amp format is the TDA7293mod.
https://ampslab.com/tda7293mod.htm
I designed this kit for home and PA.
For higher power, it can be bridged to an incredible 250W into 8 ohms.
Coming from chip amps, that's pretty amazing.
I have a 24dB/oct crossover but I've yet to work on the web page.
It is a 2-way with a delay on board to time align the woofer to the horn.
Where I live active invariably means one amp per driver fed from a line level crossover. The amps can be integrated into the cab or external in a rack.
Passive means one amp and a speaker level crossover. A subgroup of these are powered speakers which have the amp and crossover built into the cab.
You call "passive" something which has active electronics inside? (a power amp)
Which needs a power supply to fed it?
Which receives signal trough a thin shielded cable?
To boot you call active a cabinet which gets power (not signal) through thick unshielded cables from external amplifiers, mounted in a rack?
You DO have it upside down.
EDIT: look what the cat brought:
Which needs a power supply to fed it?
Which receives signal trough a thin shielded cable?
To boot you call active a cabinet which gets power (not signal) through thick unshielded cables from external amplifiers, mounted in a rack?
You DO have it upside down.
EDIT: look what the cat brought:
Last edited:
Absolutely.
Here in Europe in professional circles if a speaker is active or passive depends purely on the type of crossover used.
Line level is active, speaker level is passive.
Active vs passive speakers: what's the difference? Which is better? | What Hi-Fi?
Here in Europe in professional circles if a speaker is active or passive depends purely on the type of crossover used.
Line level is active, speaker level is passive.
Active vs passive speakers: what's the difference? Which is better? | What Hi-Fi?
You want quality, reliability, light weight, low power consumption, low cost for PA? There is only one logical answer: look at class D amps, best with a DSP. The savings on heat sink and power supply allone make it a no brainer. Sound in allmost any case is better than cheap A/B chips.
The first class A/B chip amps are a thing of the past and should only be used for special high end needs. The best A/B amp chips, once ridiculously cheap, are not produced temporarily (maybe never again) and the few left are sold at mad prices. The Chinese copy industry is incapable to copy them 1:1, so all the fake chips which are offered at any corner of the internet, have nothing to do with the originals. Not sound, performance or protection do match the real ones.
The first class A/B chip amps are a thing of the past and should only be used for special high end needs. The best A/B amp chips, once ridiculously cheap, are not produced temporarily (maybe never again) and the few left are sold at mad prices. The Chinese copy industry is incapable to copy them 1:1, so all the fake chips which are offered at any corner of the internet, have nothing to do with the originals. Not sound, performance or protection do match the real ones.