Hello everyone 🙂
Following on from my last successful modification to my crossover, I want to take it one step further 😀.
I have attached a photo of my current Xover below, it is a 12dB / oct for the LF, (1k3) and 24dB/oct for HF (1k3).
Now, what I want to do is make it switchable between active or passive crossover. I was hoping to simply connect the active system up to the terminals of the drivers while they are still connected to the Xover.
Although looking at the diagram I now have reservations! Would it be a case of simply a dpst switch connecting "T+ to input - " and "W+ to input - " to be broken for active?
While this would require a new speakon socket for me, what would be the best way to have the current sockets switchable?
Many thanks for taking your time to read this 🙂
Following on from my last successful modification to my crossover, I want to take it one step further 😀.
I have attached a photo of my current Xover below, it is a 12dB / oct for the LF, (1k3) and 24dB/oct for HF (1k3).
Now, what I want to do is make it switchable between active or passive crossover. I was hoping to simply connect the active system up to the terminals of the drivers while they are still connected to the Xover.
Although looking at the diagram I now have reservations! Would it be a case of simply a dpst switch connecting "T+ to input - " and "W+ to input - " to be broken for active?
While this would require a new speakon socket for me, what would be the best way to have the current sockets switchable?
Many thanks for taking your time to read this 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Zerokelvin, you are right in having second thoughts.
What is bound to happen is that at certain frequencies the LC networks will effectively short circuit. Never run a complex xover without drivers connected for that reason. This is what would happen with your plan, since you would drive the xover unterminated in the reverse direction. You could terminate the xover at the speaker terminal with a resistor to possibly prevent this, but that would be plain stupid, because there is another reason you can't do it because you would connect two outputs of the power amps together at one point (one lead), and who knows what smoke that will create.
The only proper way of doing it is two have your drivers each connected separately to outside the enclosure, keep both passive and active xover outside the box. Cheaper than the kind of switch you had in mind too.
vac
What is bound to happen is that at certain frequencies the LC networks will effectively short circuit. Never run a complex xover without drivers connected for that reason. This is what would happen with your plan, since you would drive the xover unterminated in the reverse direction. You could terminate the xover at the speaker terminal with a resistor to possibly prevent this, but that would be plain stupid, because there is another reason you can't do it because you would connect two outputs of the power amps together at one point (one lead), and who knows what smoke that will create.
The only proper way of doing it is two have your drivers each connected separately to outside the enclosure, keep both passive and active xover outside the box. Cheaper than the kind of switch you had in mind too.
vac
Hmm, yes relatively high power 4pdt switches are expensive 🙁
I see now how they (quite obviously!) would have the series LC across them! Not sure my amplifiers would appreciate this 😀
Another option I guess is a push to break switch (4pst) but these seem to be equally as expensive! They must exist as you see relatively budget PA speakers with "active on/off" switches on them.. Hmm..
Thanks 😀
I see now how they (quite obviously!) would have the series LC across them! Not sure my amplifiers would appreciate this 😀
Another option I guess is a push to break switch (4pst) but these seem to be equally as expensive! They must exist as you see relatively budget PA speakers with "active on/off" switches on them.. Hmm..
Thanks 😀
20A DPST rocker switches are dirt cheap I suppose, could use two two of those per crossover 
Just not a very elegant solution!
Just not a very elegant solution!
Budget PA speakers tend only to have a high pass on the top end, the bass is run full range. That makes the switch a tad simpler. 😉
That's true!
Think I'll go for 4 of these H8350AB - ARCOLECTRIC SWITCHES - SWITCH, DPST, LAT | Farnell United Kingdom
8 ohm, 800w load gives 10A - so these should be fine. Ugh, nasty solution though 🙁
Think I'll go for 4 of these H8350AB - ARCOLECTRIC SWITCHES - SWITCH, DPST, LAT | Farnell United Kingdom
8 ohm, 800w load gives 10A - so these should be fine. Ugh, nasty solution though 🙁
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