Can anyone tell me if the 10 ohm resistor in parallel with the ESL input needs to be so high a wattage (I think some one said 40 watts). I have matched non-inductive 16 watt resistors I want to use if I can
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Can anyone tell me if the 10 ohm resistor in parallel with the ESL input needs to be so high a wattage (I think some one said 40 watts). I have matched non-inductive 16 watt resistors I want to use if I can
My opinion is that 16 watts is far too small in wattage. The original resistor is 50 watts (if I remember correctly) and even that resistor sometimes cooks when the speaker is driven very hard. I recommend a minimum of 50 watts in this application: the best reliability would be to use a metal-bodied resistor mounted to the metal chassis (I did this in my own pair of 1100s). I also question if there would be any sonic value to using a non-inductive resistor in this application.
Not sin test tones - a bit of Euro Techno. You mean I can use the 16 watt.
You've provided meaningful information. But I don't know enough of the circuit to help you more myself.
B.
Thanks, I'll look for Dale's with heat sinks. I use non inductive and matched in everything, pre-amps, amps and speakers (I may be mad, but it's a lovely hobby).
I also question if there would be any sonic value to using a non-inductive resistor in this application.
If non-inductive, the resistor can do double duty by suppressing HF resonances
due to the speaker wires. There is usually no cost penalty for non-inductive versions.
just looked at the 1100 board again - I think the Colber CW20E wirewound is non-inductive I'm sure that it's the original (20 watt). If they measure close enough I'll leave them for now.
just looked at the 1100 board again - I think the Colber CW20E wirewound is non-inductive I'm sure that it's the original (20 watt). If they measure close enough I'll leave them for now.
An average amp output of 20W is awfully loud into most speakers (but no test tones).
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