Hello everyone!
I'm starting a new project - a "simple" DSP assisted 2-way, ported, boombox speaker.
I already figured out which woofer I want to use, it's a salvaged 3.5" woofer from a single Monacor EUL-30 PA speaker with a dead mylar tweeter.
I have already measured the tsp parameters, haven't measured the frequency response yet but it sounds almost like a wideband speaker. I suppose it can cross over with pretty much any tweeter also thanks to its small diameter.
For amplification, I am using a dual channel TPA3118+BP1048B2 bluetooth amplifier+DSP unit which will take care of the crossover and straighten out the frequency response for the single drivers, woofer and tweeter(s) separately. The speaker will work in mono. I can use very steep filters on it, if needed.
The speaker's enclosure will be 3D printed, therefore all of the design is done inside FreeCAD.
I need help with the tweeter configuration. Since this is a bluetooth speaker (which will be likely used to play some music outside with friends) I would like to achieve some decent sound coverage, within the limits of what I already have.
I do understand that a narrow, monopole directivity pattern is good for indoor, on-axis listening, however, I'm very willing to sacrifice that to achieve a wider coverage.
As far as I know, there are mainly two ways of doing that. I could either use a rear firing tweeter (which, I guess, would have to be padded down by quite a significant amount) or two "splayed" tweeters with a ≈15deg angle between them (this might cause some issues with clearance, unless I angle them inward).
I will be using a pair of simple, cheap and old 2" cone tweeters I already have lying around the house. I also have some 1/2" Mylar tweeters (the cheap kind) I could use.
The front baffle measures 252x130mm.
I had some trouble finding the theory behind that so I wanted to ask if someone has had a similar experience.
Thank you very much!
I'm starting a new project - a "simple" DSP assisted 2-way, ported, boombox speaker.
I already figured out which woofer I want to use, it's a salvaged 3.5" woofer from a single Monacor EUL-30 PA speaker with a dead mylar tweeter.
I have already measured the tsp parameters, haven't measured the frequency response yet but it sounds almost like a wideband speaker. I suppose it can cross over with pretty much any tweeter also thanks to its small diameter.
For amplification, I am using a dual channel TPA3118+BP1048B2 bluetooth amplifier+DSP unit which will take care of the crossover and straighten out the frequency response for the single drivers, woofer and tweeter(s) separately. The speaker will work in mono. I can use very steep filters on it, if needed.
The speaker's enclosure will be 3D printed, therefore all of the design is done inside FreeCAD.
I need help with the tweeter configuration. Since this is a bluetooth speaker (which will be likely used to play some music outside with friends) I would like to achieve some decent sound coverage, within the limits of what I already have.
I do understand that a narrow, monopole directivity pattern is good for indoor, on-axis listening, however, I'm very willing to sacrifice that to achieve a wider coverage.
As far as I know, there are mainly two ways of doing that. I could either use a rear firing tweeter (which, I guess, would have to be padded down by quite a significant amount) or two "splayed" tweeters with a ≈15deg angle between them (this might cause some issues with clearance, unless I angle them inward).
I will be using a pair of simple, cheap and old 2" cone tweeters I already have lying around the house. I also have some 1/2" Mylar tweeters (the cheap kind) I could use.
The front baffle measures 252x130mm.
I had some trouble finding the theory behind that so I wanted to ask if someone has had a similar experience.
Thank you very much!
Mount them on rings with metal pipe strap to them, and bend them around until it sounds proper. Then fiberglass it all in place. A rear tweet would be wired reverse polarity, and won't be heard without reflection.
I think you should at least get better tweeters since you are putting in so much work. Mylar may sound ok up past say 12k, but at 12k you have maybe 1/2 inch before it can be audible that the drivers are apart. That is impractical and impossible. Experiment is the only way. A speaker is like an instrument, every variance will sound different. You may end up with your mylars reverse polarity, tweeters regular along with woofer. If you put them aiming in and triangulating, you will probably find the sound you want, but it all comes down to fractions of a mm and alot of listening and testing.
I want the same thing for my Bluetooth speaker. I want alot to listen to also
I think you should at least get better tweeters since you are putting in so much work. Mylar may sound ok up past say 12k, but at 12k you have maybe 1/2 inch before it can be audible that the drivers are apart. That is impractical and impossible. Experiment is the only way. A speaker is like an instrument, every variance will sound different. You may end up with your mylars reverse polarity, tweeters regular along with woofer. If you put them aiming in and triangulating, you will probably find the sound you want, but it all comes down to fractions of a mm and alot of listening and testing.
I want the same thing for my Bluetooth speaker. I want alot to listen to also
I saw a speaker with 2s mounted on each top corner, aiming out. It spread wide, but was utilitarian sounding. It had an 8 in the middle. Because of the small size drivers, the image did meet in the middle, despite the 2s aiming out from each top corner of the enclosure.