I just got myself a switchcraft locking TRS jack for a headphone amp project I am working on. Before installing it, I tested it out to see how well the locking mechanism works and found that it doesn't really work at all. It actually takes less force to unplug something than a non-locking jack I have on another amp (I am not even pushing the unlocking mechanism). Do I need some kind of special connector or did I just receive a bad jack?
Ah. clones of the Neutrik one.
Do you have a Switchcraft plug on a guitar cord or something? PLug that in there to see. I have no idea, but your phones plug could be slightly slender. I would expect those to grip fairly well.
I don;t know your project of course, but in my world, if I spin my chair and catch my phones cord, I'd much rather it yank out of the jack that have the plug stay and the wires yank out of it. Or have the phones yanked off my head onto the floor. Just an opinion.
Do you have a Switchcraft plug on a guitar cord or something? PLug that in there to see. I have no idea, but your phones plug could be slightly slender. I would expect those to grip fairly well.
I don;t know your project of course, but in my world, if I spin my chair and catch my phones cord, I'd much rather it yank out of the jack that have the plug stay and the wires yank out of it. Or have the phones yanked off my head onto the floor. Just an opinion.
I'm building a Beta22 and I have seen many recommendations not to plug/unplug the cord while the amp is on due to the possibility of shorting the connections to each other damaging the amp. I figured a locking TRS would give me a good reminder that I should turn it off before changing my headphones.
The word "clone" makes me feel like this one is lower quality than the one Neutrik makes, is that the case? I just wanted one that looked a little nicer.
Thanks.
The word "clone" makes me feel like this one is lower quality than the one Neutrik makes, is that the case? I just wanted one that looked a little nicer.
Thanks.
No intended implication. "Clone" to me just means an identical thing. Neutrik makes a product. Switchcraft sees over time that there is market potential for that product, so they start making the same thing. I wouldn;t imagine it is part for part identical, but the sismilarity in appearance is surely on purpose, and the functionality is the same. I just called it a clone to identify it, as opposed to the many many other 1/4" jacks Switchcraft makes. I have always considered Switchcraft products to be top quality.
I appreciate your concerns and they are reasonable. I am thinking about my real world experiences. Things are always catching on other things. If I am wearing phones at a mixer, I can and do catch the cord as I turn my chair. Plugged into a small table top device, I see images of the cord yanking the amplifier off the table. Don't worry about it, I am just paranoid.
I appreciate your concerns and they are reasonable. I am thinking about my real world experiences. Things are always catching on other things. If I am wearing phones at a mixer, I can and do catch the cord as I turn my chair. Plugged into a small table top device, I see images of the cord yanking the amplifier off the table. Don't worry about it, I am just paranoid.
if anything switchcraft are usually higher quality, if a bit heavier/chunkier and more expensive overall. its not really a clone, doesnt have that emergency explosive disable look going on like the neutrik, but it is obviously built to fit the same panel cutout and be locking.
Cool. Thanks for the info everyone. Since it doesn't work with any of my connectors I am just going to order a new one and see how it goes. If the new one doesn't lock correctly with what I have I guess I will just be extra careful.
I suggest you take it up with the support department where you bought it to see if they can check for you, they may replace it for free, or confirm that perhaps the tolerances of the switchcraft arent quite right yet.
I don't find the genuine Neutrik all that "locking" - if anything it makes it more likely you will partially pull the plug to the dangerous range and then realize the lock is still egnaged
I dont use either, though I have some of the neutriks here. I'm balanced all the way baby. I use lemo 4 pin OB series, which are truly locking and smaller than most minis. they also circumvent the issue you mention, which was another one of the reasons I decided to change. the fact the phono system shorts the amp and headphones on the way in and out is a deal breaker on its own.
being DIYers, I see no reason to use phono or mini even for single ended systems.
but none of that helps the OP I guess, just an option to consider.
being DIYers, I see no reason to use phono or mini even for single ended systems.
but none of that helps the OP I guess, just an option to consider.
The reason to use standard connectors is compatibility. If you never intend to use anything outside of the immedisate system, use anything. But it might be frustrating to take your favorite headphones to the studio and then try to plug them in with an odd connector on the cord.
i'm aware of that but the standard connectors are ALL **** including 2 x 3 pin XLR, that was a stupid idea for headphones. Its easy enough to make an adapter. using a 4 pin connector you can adapt to anything, use balanced headphone outputs or SE, spades etc whatever. I have adapters for all the common formats but I use lemo directly at home. most do not have to go into the studio and if they do, an adapter should not be a roadblock
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