Hi all.
My Klipsch LaScala/Belle clone project has to wait (have a new job in NL/amsterdam, a lot of traveling and no space), but keeping in touch with greg (mid/high horn combo).
So I came up with an idea to build a small speaker using cheap pro drivers (higher efficiency) to drive them with some cheap tube amp.
Drivers used should be Beyma SM108, B&C DE10 (ME10 or XT120)
attached are sketch ups.
My Qs are:
-any good CNC wood cutting near Amsterdam? (considering I dont have to provide wood, just drawings)
-any good source for the drivers in Netherland?
also would like to hear your suggestions 🙂 (critics welcome)
Danny
My Klipsch LaScala/Belle clone project has to wait (have a new job in NL/amsterdam, a lot of traveling and no space), but keeping in touch with greg (mid/high horn combo).
So I came up with an idea to build a small speaker using cheap pro drivers (higher efficiency) to drive them with some cheap tube amp.
Drivers used should be Beyma SM108, B&C DE10 (ME10 or XT120)
attached are sketch ups.
My Qs are:
-any good CNC wood cutting near Amsterdam? (considering I dont have to provide wood, just drawings)
-any good source for the drivers in Netherland?
also would like to hear your suggestions 🙂 (critics welcome)
Danny
Attachments
sorry i can't be of help with this design but i hope you can make it work. i have been interested in building a hifi set with pro drivers to hear what they sound like but all the designs i see use 12 or 15" drivers and i don't want anything that big. your 8"+1" looks just right for me.
david
david
The SM108 is almost textbook for a B4 alignment: 11.3L net, f3=69Hz. You can work out the port.
ME10 works well with the DE25 for about a 2k xover, but unsure of the DE10. I also like the XT120.
You are still going to need to design a xver for it.
Re wood: do as I do and go to a kitchen maker with a large accurate table saw and get them to cut it. Usually doesn't cost much.
ME10 works well with the DE25 for about a 2k xover, but unsure of the DE10. I also like the XT120.
You are still going to need to design a xver for it.
Re wood: do as I do and go to a kitchen maker with a large accurate table saw and get them to cut it. Usually doesn't cost much.
brett thanks.Perhaps I can consider another 8" driver, because I have something like 25-27L net volume (driver, port, bracing already deducted).
Any suggestions? I'd like to get the driver down to cca 60Hz, at least, with some EQ, so the driver has to have a bigger xmax .
I've been considering a B&C 8NDL51,a little bit expensive for what i want, but good xmax.
david, my design goal is more like dynamics, and high power level.And portability 🙂 I dont want a speaker that weights 150kg when I'm abroad. I want to use activ Xover.
danny
Any suggestions? I'd like to get the driver down to cca 60Hz, at least, with some EQ, so the driver has to have a bigger xmax .
I've been considering a B&C 8NDL51,a little bit expensive for what i want, but good xmax.
david, my design goal is more like dynamics, and high power level.And portability 🙂 I dont want a speaker that weights 150kg when I'm abroad. I want to use activ Xover.
danny
Ahoj 🙂
RCF L8S800 should by good.. http://www.prodance.cz/protokoly/RCF_L18S800.pdf
emi beta 8 is ok if you want to keep it cheap..
if you have 25L volume you can also consider 10"...
RCF L8S800 should by good.. http://www.prodance.cz/protokoly/RCF_L18S800.pdf
emi beta 8 is ok if you want to keep it cheap..
if you have 25L volume you can also consider 10"...
nazdarek sumacSK 🙂
yes i want to keep it cheap, i have another ongoing project at home which is very expensive to me.10" is to big.
I dont know about the eminence beta8, but i like the idea of beyma sm108.
I've modeled it in WinISD with linkwitz transform circuit, and taken down to 50Hz in 23L closed box, it showed that i wont reach the Xmax. but perhaps i'm doing something wrong 🙁 also the sensitivity was around 94dB ...
can somebody model this driver in a different program if he get the same? i'm little bit confused. anyway, i will be ordering the drivers after new year holiday.
danny
yes i want to keep it cheap, i have another ongoing project at home which is very expensive to me.10" is to big.
I dont know about the eminence beta8, but i like the idea of beyma sm108.
I've modeled it in WinISD with linkwitz transform circuit, and taken down to 50Hz in 23L closed box, it showed that i wont reach the Xmax. but perhaps i'm doing something wrong 🙁 also the sensitivity was around 94dB ...
can somebody model this driver in a different program if he get the same? i'm little bit confused. anyway, i will be ordering the drivers after new year holiday.
danny
here's a good source for drivers and i THINK that they are from the Netherlands
EUROPE AUDIO - Home page
EUROPE AUDIO - Home page
I like these two designs. Thanks for posting them to get our creative juices flowing. Can anyone comment on which sounds better in a simple two way like this, the Beta 8 or the Alpha 8 in a home stereo application. Is it possible to use these drivers without crossover and just blend an appropriate tweeter? They seem to roll off nicely on top.
TIA!
Godzilla
TIA!
Godzilla
Hi Godzilla!
I've actualy chosen the Beyma SM108.
But a lot of guys mentioning the Eminence drivers.Isn't the Beyma a class better?
danny
I've actualy chosen the Beyma SM108.
But a lot of guys mentioning the Eminence drivers.Isn't the Beyma a class better?
danny
Though I have no experience of that Beyma, I have used many others and they all did well. I would likely choose it over an Eminence Alpha or Beta, which have not impressed me with any I have used so far.Hi Godzilla!
I've actualy chosen the Beyma SM108.
But a lot of guys mentioning the Eminence drivers.Isn't the Beyma a class better?
danny
here's a good source for drivers and i THINK that they are from the Netherlands
EUROPE AUDIO - Home page
Naah! I've found a shop in Czech for the sm108 for 45euros and a shop in UK for the tweeter for 38euros 🙂 even if I consider shipping charges, I save something like 60 euros.... 😉 with the horn its totaling in 238euros for drivers.
Somehow the Netherlands are a little bit expensive in everything 😀
Danny
Consider the ME20, instead of the ME10, which is also a 90x60 horn but it is a cast aluminum vs a molded plastic. I have used both and prefer the ME20.
Skip
Skip
Skip:
I went for the XT120 horn, already ordered for a good price of 19Euros 🙂
Hope I can get them just after new year, because after that its a lot of business trips for me 🙁
danny
I went for the XT120 horn, already ordered for a good price of 19Euros 🙂
Hope I can get them just after new year, because after that its a lot of business trips for me 🙁
danny
OK, so the wood will be cut on monday. The front, back, top and bottom will be covered in black vinyl imitating leather 🙂
still have to decide what shape/color for the sides, but that is only aesthetics .... sound is more important
will post pics as soon as....
danny
still have to decide what shape/color for the sides, but that is only aesthetics .... sound is more important
will post pics as soon as....
danny
Last edited:
Hi all,
a small update. Wood should be cut this month, horns are ordered. only think that changes is the color, nothing important ( light maple sides, white vinyl mid section).
First important change is the 8" midbass. I'm thinking of a B&C NDL51.
....................... (input your comment here 🙂 )
But more important is the change of layout. These speaker stay as they are. the only thing is, a subwoofer (supporting bass cabinet) will be added as money will allow.
So it will be a modular speaker (sub crossed somewhere around 80Hz).
I spoke to Tony Gee, I had an idea of placing two identical woofers in one cabinet, the other one on the back side, same axis, connected opposite faze, to get higher efficiency and to cancel out vibrations. He told me that is a bad idea, that to control the faze shift would be impossible.
Any thoughts on this?
Danny
a small update. Wood should be cut this month, horns are ordered. only think that changes is the color, nothing important ( light maple sides, white vinyl mid section).
First important change is the 8" midbass. I'm thinking of a B&C NDL51.
....................... (input your comment here 🙂 )
But more important is the change of layout. These speaker stay as they are. the only thing is, a subwoofer (supporting bass cabinet) will be added as money will allow.
So it will be a modular speaker (sub crossed somewhere around 80Hz).
I spoke to Tony Gee, I had an idea of placing two identical woofers in one cabinet, the other one on the back side, same axis, connected opposite faze, to get higher efficiency and to cancel out vibrations. He told me that is a bad idea, that to control the faze shift would be impossible.
Any thoughts on this?
Danny
The Beta 8 works well with with just a small inductor in series. Bring in the tweeter around 6Khz.
Very good driver by all accounts and measurements I've seen. I have them in mind for some future builds.First important change is the 8" midbass. I'm thinking of a B&C NDL51.
....................... (input your comment here 🙂 )
A quick sim shows 130Hz f3 sealed, so either a pair EQ'd or ported would be needed to get 80Hz.
They will behave like a spaced bipole like this. Whether you consider this a plus or not for your design I dunno.I spoke to Tony Gee, I had an idea of placing two identical woofers in one cabinet, the other one on the back side, same axis, connected opposite faze, to get higher efficiency and to cancel out vibrations. He told me that is a bad idea, that to control the faze shift would be impossible.
Any thoughts on this?
Danny
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