I think its 500w but i'm not sure.I just want to ask questions in this forum cause your knowledge is much than me.Sorry for my bad english.I did this amplifier and worked but its clipping i think.I really dont know what youre tellin it. It gives dc to my subwoofer i think.Cause i dont think this amlifier can heat up a 1000w rms/3000w peak pioneer ts-w3004spl. Please help me i will use amplifier in low freq.For only subwoofer.Thanks a lot.I know its so simple but if you can help i can do better.Thanks for helping so much.
I did circuit in ares.I added ares layout and i will add jgp format.
I did circuit in ares.I added ares layout and i will add jgp format.
This is the Pass Labs forum.
We are afraid of high power amplifiers. 😎
I think you want the Solid State Forum.
We are afraid of high power amplifiers. 😎
I think you want the Solid State Forum.
This is the jpg version.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
500W from two pairs of MJ15003/15004?!
BD139/140 as VAS/CCS at +/-70V rails?!
BD243C/244C as drivers at +/-70V rails?
No OP-stage protection?!
Etc...
Etc...
It looks a bad design. Build a Leach-amp or something like that!
Anyway:
BD139/140 as VAS/CCS at +/-70V rails?!
BD243C/244C as drivers at +/-70V rails?
No OP-stage protection?!
Etc...
Etc...
It looks a bad design. Build a Leach-amp or something like that!
Anyway:
Clipping? Exactly how does it clipping?
Do not think, let's measure! 🙂
where did you find this design? did you design/build it yourself? if you did, congratulations, you designed and/or built an amp that produced music, which you should be proud of yourself for.
im new to homebrewing amps myself, so i hope this isn't a case of the blind leading the blind, but basically the best piece of advice i can give you is listen to the guys on this forum ... they really know their stuff imo.
everything Andy said is money. you shouldn't even be thinking about pushing anywhere near 500W out of this amplifier. reduce the rail voltages, at least for now, to +/- 40V for ~100W into 8 ohm or maybe +/- 50V for ~150W into 8 ohm. this will ensure the outputs stay well within their SOA's and reduce the voltage requirement on the VA and predriver transistors, which as Andy pointed out are grossly underrated for +/- 70V.
im new to homebrewing amps myself, so i hope this isn't a case of the blind leading the blind, but basically the best piece of advice i can give you is listen to the guys on this forum ... they really know their stuff imo.
everything Andy said is money. you shouldn't even be thinking about pushing anywhere near 500W out of this amplifier. reduce the rail voltages, at least for now, to +/- 40V for ~100W into 8 ohm or maybe +/- 50V for ~150W into 8 ohm. this will ensure the outputs stay well within their SOA's and reduce the voltage requirement on the VA and predriver transistors, which as Andy pointed out are grossly underrated for +/- 70V.
on the other hand
factory made sansui B1000 uses only 2 transistors per channel drives the with stk3082II and use rail voltage of almost 65+65 volts....producinng almost 120w per ch
of course this happens together with a very triger happy protection..... it is enough to furt next to the amp and protection will be activated
factory made sansui B1000 uses only 2 transistors per channel drives the with stk3082II and use rail voltage of almost 65+65 volts....producinng almost 120w per ch
of course this happens together with a very triger happy protection..... it is enough to furt next to the amp and protection will be activated
where did you find this design? did you design/build it yourself? if you did, congratulations, you designed and/or built an amp that produced music, which you should be proud of yourself for.
gain said:
Andy L. Francis said:
I changed bd243c-244c with bd139-140.I mean i used 243c and 244c not bd139-140. Can i fix this amp' problem? Why it heats up cables(from amplifier to subwoofer)? And they are not small cables.Can anyone help me to do 500-750w amplifier @2ohms.Im using subwoofer 4+4 ohms parallel.It's 2 ohm now and i want to use it in home for 2weeks.Thanks again.And i know its not proffessional design.
if cables are heat up
everything is gone kiss your speakers goodby !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ops !!!! thats gona be expensive
i wonder how many other people .......
everything is gone kiss your speakers goodby !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ops !!!! thats gona be expensive
i wonder how many other people .......
I'm sorry but my subwoofer works perfectly.I'm using it in my car and its %100 ok. Please write helpful things dot write like say good bye to your speaker!!!!! or something like this.Will you be happy if it was failed.please. I just want help.My subwoofer is pioneer TS-W3004SPL and its normal.Please write constructive posts.
constructive post
there you go
1) if transistors and speakers are short circuited then you send DC to your allready shor circuited speaker then this is the only reason that cables are getting warm .
2) if all this is wrong IE no short circuit in the output transistors and speakers then simply the cable you use is too small .
3) this circuit in about 40-50 v rails will happily produce more than 100W BUT IN 8 OHMS LOAD !!!!also it will run problem free
4) we know nothing of your power supply
5) try to wire your subs in serious thus create a load of 8 ohms for the amplifier instead of 2 to see whats going on
6) if this makes the amp work better you have less power but a working device .
and finaly producing this ammount of power in a load of 2 Ohms you will need either a class d amplifier or a class AB amplifier like the one you use but with at least 10 sets of outputs even higher rail voltage ..... thermostats and other protection circuits ,huge coolers and a power supply that will cost a hell of a lot of money to produce
where i come if you wana paint one egg you use paint ....furting want do you anything ..... Meaning that you expect to produce 500w safely to drive these subs with a device that may be cost 20 EUro in parts ....
no way hose .....
there you go
1) if transistors and speakers are short circuited then you send DC to your allready shor circuited speaker then this is the only reason that cables are getting warm .
2) if all this is wrong IE no short circuit in the output transistors and speakers then simply the cable you use is too small .
3) this circuit in about 40-50 v rails will happily produce more than 100W BUT IN 8 OHMS LOAD !!!!also it will run problem free
4) we know nothing of your power supply
5) try to wire your subs in serious thus create a load of 8 ohms for the amplifier instead of 2 to see whats going on
6) if this makes the amp work better you have less power but a working device .
and finaly producing this ammount of power in a load of 2 Ohms you will need either a class d amplifier or a class AB amplifier like the one you use but with at least 10 sets of outputs even higher rail voltage ..... thermostats and other protection circuits ,huge coolers and a power supply that will cost a hell of a lot of money to produce
where i come if you wana paint one egg you use paint ....furting want do you anything ..... Meaning that you expect to produce 500w safely to drive these subs with a device that may be cost 20 EUro in parts ....
no way hose .....
BD139/140 > MJE340/350
BD243C/244C > MJE15032/15033
BC547/557 > MPSA42/92 (2N4501/5551 is better)
And use only 8r speaker (4r+4r serial) 'cause of the SOA of OP stage!
Maybe you'll need the full Thiele-network, apply 4.7r-2W//~2.2uH on the output.
I'd add a trimmpot in the Vbe multiplier for proper idle current adjustment.
BD243C/244C > MJE15032/15033
BC547/557 > MPSA42/92 (2N4501/5551 is better)
And use only 8r speaker (4r+4r serial) 'cause of the SOA of OP stage!
Maybe you'll need the full Thiele-network, apply 4.7r-2W//~2.2uH on the output.
I'd add a trimmpot in the Vbe multiplier for proper idle current adjustment.
How can i add a trimmpot in the Vbe multiplier and where i will add trimmpot? How will be the pot? 2k-5kohm?Thanks so much. And i'm starting to do leach amp 🙂
3.9k resistor instead of 1.5k resistor, 1k resistor + 1k trimmpot in series instead of the 3.3k resistor
In the current setup (1k - 3.3k) your bias current in the OP stage is zero!
You'll need ~50mA (~10mV on emmiter resistors) instead.
In the current setup (1k - 3.3k) your bias current in the OP stage is zero!
You'll need ~50mA (~10mV on emmiter resistors) instead.
my friend
leach amp ....hmm ok then
do you thing that a leach amp will do 500w stable at 2 Ohms load ?????
with how many out put transistors ????
with what rail voltage .....
there is nothing wrong with the amplifier you allready have .....more or less .....
leach amp of any version will do you no good its probably more well designed more stable and produces a safe ammount of power with very good quality .....
it will not put out 500w in 2ohms
still we know nothing of your power supply .....
a trimer of 1k can be added in serious after you replace the 3k3 resistor with a 2k2 next to the BD 243 c you have mounted on the main heatsink in the midle ...this will provide you with ajustable idle ....will not give you more power or eliminate the cliping ......
or follow andys suggestion .....
leach amp ....hmm ok then
do you thing that a leach amp will do 500w stable at 2 Ohms load ?????
with how many out put transistors ????
with what rail voltage .....
there is nothing wrong with the amplifier you allready have .....more or less .....
leach amp of any version will do you no good its probably more well designed more stable and produces a safe ammount of power with very good quality .....
it will not put out 500w in 2ohms
still we know nothing of your power supply .....
a trimer of 1k can be added in serious after you replace the 3k3 resistor with a 2k2 next to the BD 243 c you have mounted on the main heatsink in the midle ...this will provide you with ajustable idle ....will not give you more power or eliminate the cliping ......
or follow andys suggestion .....
Darkkiller,
Check this thread out!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119958
My friend called John aka "MJL21193" has a great project for you... 😎
Check this thread out!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119958
My friend called John aka "MJL21193" has a great project for you... 😎
way to go andy !!!!!!
that a real thing and may be possible to produce all that power .....but someone will have to tell him about how much power and rail voltage this beast will require ...together with cooling
that a real thing and may be possible to produce all that power .....but someone will have to tell him about how much power and rail voltage this beast will require ...together with cooling
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