Who makes an IEC Power Inlet plug/switch/fuse/ or some combination of those that will actually fit the 27.5 x 59 cut-out hole in the back of the DIY store 4U chassis? I cannot seem to find anything and don't want to buy the accessory kit the DIY store sells for it. I have everything already but that mains inlet plug. https://www.diyaudio.com/media/pdf/4u-300-e-back-panel-temporary-diagram.pdf
The back panel kit page:
Back panel parts kit plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit – diyAudio Store
notes the spec for the power entry module at the first bullet point.
It certainly would be handy if the other parts were noted with detailed specs.
One item that tripped me up was the stand off male threaded end length. It's 5 mm to suit the hole depth of the heat sinks. The majority of M3 standoffs that I could find have an end length of 6 mm. I had to hunt around for a workable fit. A Digi-key or Mouser number would have saved a lot of messing about.
Back panel parts kit plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit – diyAudio Store
notes the spec for the power entry module at the first bullet point.
It certainly would be handy if the other parts were noted with detailed specs.
One item that tripped me up was the stand off male threaded end length. It's 5 mm to suit the hole depth of the heat sinks. The majority of M3 standoffs that I could find have an end length of 6 mm. I had to hunt around for a workable fit. A Digi-key or Mouser number would have saved a lot of messing about.
Thanks for the reply and Yep, I discovered the information there after I started the thread. I also had to order the M3 hardware. If they are too long, that isn't a problem. Just thread a nut on, file/cut off the end and screw the nut off to clean-up the threads. It would be nice if they used 6/32 threading so every computer motherboard standoff on earth would fit it. I have bags of those left over from computer builds. But no, M3? Fortunately Amazon has 1 day deliver on those so I can resume my F5 assemble today.
1.they're on other side of Pond
2.they're 'Talians - that's the nation with all these cars and all these motorcycles ; it's wonder in fact that they didn't invented their own standard for screws , different from Metric and ..... well - not-Metric
say ..... Da Vinci thread ?
2.they're 'Talians - that's the nation with all these cars and all these motorcycles ; it's wonder in fact that they didn't invented their own standard for screws , different from Metric and ..... well - not-Metric
say ..... Da Vinci thread ?
if they are all 6mm, it would still work just fine if you think about it... 🙂 Anyway the heatsink holes are not drilled to such an exact depth that it would matter.
The threaded M3 holes in the heatsinks can be cleaned up with something called a bottom tap. Easy to make from a regular plug or through hole tap using a grinder or dremel tool. Just cut off the tapered portion of the regular tap, then carefully grind a small 45° bevel to ease the threads into the existing hole. Use any kind of alcohol or naptha based cleaning fluid to lubricate the tap.
Or simply put a small M3 washer under the M3 standoff, so that all of the standoffs end up at the same height off the heatsink.
Or simply put a small M3 washer under the M3 standoff, so that all of the standoffs end up at the same height off the heatsink.
if there is some sand residue in taps - remember that's combined machining and chemical production - in most cases all you need is compressed air to get rid of
even bicycle pump will do the job - I always have one handy in my shop
still didn't had any tap problematic with tapping itself , just some sand ..... bit or two
even bicycle pump will do the job - I always have one handy in my shop
still didn't had any tap problematic with tapping itself , just some sand ..... bit or two
I shouldn't complain... my mustang is a mix of metric and SAE fasteners. Please just pick one! Drives me crazy. Or maybe "Nuts" would be more appropriate.1.they're on other side of Pond
2.they're 'Talians - that's the nation with all these cars and all these motorcycles ; it's wonder in fact that they didn't invented their own standard for screws , different from Metric and ..... well - not-Metric
say ..... Da Vinci thread ?
Thanks for all the "make it work" suggestions.
The ModuShop chassis work to exemplary Italian build quality. Certainly, no swarf or other fab residue in the tapped holes that I found. And every 5mm threaded length stand off screwed home snugly. Italiano perfecto!
When I was getting materials together, I missed the advice on the store's heat sink page that mentioned hole depth. This detail is advertised. In hindsight, what would have helped me was if the complete spec on the stand off was advertised with the back panel page I might have picked up on it sooner.
Life is full of little challenges. Just trying to help the next guy have a smooth build experience. Not much fun to have to stop and order more stuff or mess about in the shed when you weren't planning to. Especially if you're keen to get the job finished.
The ModuShop chassis work to exemplary Italian build quality. Certainly, no swarf or other fab residue in the tapped holes that I found. And every 5mm threaded length stand off screwed home snugly. Italiano perfecto!
When I was getting materials together, I missed the advice on the store's heat sink page that mentioned hole depth. This detail is advertised. In hindsight, what would have helped me was if the complete spec on the stand off was advertised with the back panel page I might have picked up on it sooner.
Life is full of little challenges. Just trying to help the next guy have a smooth build experience. Not much fun to have to stop and order more stuff or mess about in the shed when you weren't planning to. Especially if you're keen to get the job finished.
Is there already a "things you should know about the 4U but didn't know to ask" thread yet? Couldn't find one but may start one if it doesn't exist. Being new to this hobby and forum, I takes a LONG time to sift through some of these build threads. And I trip over stuff then find them later in the thread somewhere. The build guides are good, but don't have some of the details I've needed without going to the Forum thread. I know... it's DIY but that doesn't mean it needs to be difficult. It's like there should be something in between the build guide and the rambling stuff on the Forum threads. Maybe a "Best of" condensation of the Forum thread? An example is the B1Korg thread where the first part of the Build in that is no longer correct. But without reading the whole thread you miss the fact that it is. But I DO appreciate what 6L6, Nelson, and others do for us on this site!!!! Just observations of a Noob.
Bob, I hear you brother.
There is a chassis thread over in the store forum. Doesn't quite fit the target you're describing from my read. Happy to contribute my thoughts to your worthwhile venture.
There is a chassis thread over in the store forum. Doesn't quite fit the target you're describing from my read. Happy to contribute my thoughts to your worthwhile venture.
Thanks Astromo. Right now I'm taking a lot of notes because I'm assembling a 4U chassis for an F5 build. Just stupid little things like how long the M3 screws should be to mount the F5 FETs to the heat sink. Or you need to attach the rails to the heat sink before you attach the base mounting plate to the rails. HIFI 2000 doesn't even attempt to tell you what bolts they supply go into which spots. All trial and error. My wife on the other hand likes the fact it takes forever. Her take is, the longer a project takes, the longer until I invest in another one! LOL
M3 length. Yes to that. And what size standoffs. Simple things you know once you’ve done them but if not finding such info either is costly cause you did it wrong or lengthy even with 5. dan google-fu. Or both 😉
Forgot that the ever helpful 6L6 put this guide together:
Illustrated guide to the 4U deluxe Chassis - diyAudio
The link is noted on the 4U Deluxe Chassis Page over at the store.
It's not in his signature, which is what I've used to find many a guide.
Illustrated guide to the 4U deluxe Chassis - diyAudio
The link is noted on the 4U Deluxe Chassis Page over at the store.
It's not in his signature, which is what I've used to find many a guide.
Most of the images are missing and the images that are there show different hardware from what I have in front of me. But it looks like he had it covered at one time. That said, the manufacturer should do a much better job of assembly instructions. Only thing I have is an exploded view that's hard to interpret and no indication of what screw size/type/length goes where and in what order it should be assembled. I know your take Zen Mod. It's DIY. Just figure it out. BTW I cycle thousands of miles a year. Never on a Japanese bicycle. ;-)
Bob, the joys of going Italiano.
The gruppos I have on my rides are good old Italian tractor parts (10 years old and still trucking) not that Japanese fishing gear stuff. Love Campag. Designed to withstand a MOAB bomb blast and maintainable with long spare parts availability. That's an example of just how well the Italians can engineer mechanical kit.
You're right about the 6L6 guide but even with the images missing, it helped me immensely.
I opted for some different fasteners plus I modded the top/bottom cover plates to work with hex, cup head machine screws. My personal view is that the self tapping screw design philosophy detracts from the overall quality of the product. Now my case has the extra little bit of pro feel (even if it's just me that really knows it's there).
The gruppos I have on my rides are good old Italian tractor parts (10 years old and still trucking) not that Japanese fishing gear stuff. Love Campag. Designed to withstand a MOAB bomb blast and maintainable with long spare parts availability. That's an example of just how well the Italians can engineer mechanical kit.
You're right about the 6L6 guide but even with the images missing, it helped me immensely.
I opted for some different fasteners plus I modded the top/bottom cover plates to work with hex, cup head machine screws. My personal view is that the self tapping screw design philosophy detracts from the overall quality of the product. Now my case has the extra little bit of pro feel (even if it's just me that really knows it's there).
I love the idea of threading the top/bottom plates. Thanks! I also drilled/tapped the mounting bolt for the transformer through the mounting plate. M8-1.25 tap. Everyone has one of those I'm sure. And also drilled/tapped the standoffs for the PS Board and block rectifiers. I'll look for other improvement opportunities. Guess I need to buy a black anodized machine bolt assortment off Amazon now...
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