4 digit 7 segment LED display, one segment is intermittent, need help

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I have a CD player with a 4 digit 7 segment vintage LED display. Like these: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven-segment_display

One of the segments (segment G) is intermittent. It goes in and out. I understand that if segment G was out in all 4 digits, then it could possibly be a driver transistor, controller, diode, etc. But it's only out in one of the digits. The other three digits are not affected. And on top of that it's intermittent.

I could not seen any suspect traces, or bad solder joints anywhere.

Any ideas of what may be causing this? Thanks for all of the help!

Edit: The model number is NSM4202A.
 
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It should still be possible to test if its CC or CA in circuit. Pin outs are pretty standard for these type of displays. Testing it like this would also confirm whether its a faulty LED or a problem elsewhere.

This will give you an idea what's available generally. You need to measure the dimensions of the package for a start. (if the link doesn't work then enter 'led 7 segment' as a search term and then click on LED displays. Other sites no doubt list far more)

LED Displays | CPC UK
 
It should still be possible to test if its CC or CA in circuit. Pin outs are pretty standard for these type of displays. Testing it like this would also confirm whether its a faulty LED or a problem elsewhere.

This will give you an idea what's available generally. You need to measure the dimensions of the package for a start. (if the link doesn't work then enter 'led 7 segment' as a search term and then click on LED displays. Other sites no doubt list far more)

LED Displays | CPC UK

This one is the closest that I could find, size, color, etc.: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TDCG1050M/TDCG1050M-ND/4074705

But that would really suck if I replaced it and the segment was still out.
 
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So get the pinouts by confirming what type of display it is (CC or CA), do a static diode test to see if they all light (if ones dead then that's conclusive). If a diode test isn't 100% definitive then measure the voltage applied to, and the voltage across the suspect segment for confirmation. A dead segment will typically be open circuit and so have the full 5 volts (typically) voltage across it and not be lit. Or more rarely it might be short or low resistance in which case you would still see the 5 volts applied to any series limiting resistor for that segment.
 
The one in your link is common anode. So use the pin outs and run your meter over the pins checking each digit in turn. If yours is common cathode then the LED's will be reversed.
 

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But that would really suck if I replaced it and the segment was still out.
To me this display looks like the standard philips display of the time (mid to late 80ies, e.g. Philips CD460). These displays were very prone to this type of failure and IIRC the failure was not caused by the display but by the controler/driver chip and/or bad contacts (bonded wires to the chip or vias on the display board).
 

The model number is NSM4202A. It's an old part used in Philips/Sony players. I believe they were made by National Semi (NS?).

I took it completely apart and put it back together again. Re-soldered all of the joints. I opened the plastic hood, the actual LEDs are bare/open, just tiny little microscopic filament wires.

I'm guessing segment G has become faulty. I don't think I can repair it. After putting it together, it does the same thing. Flickers in and out every 5-10 minutes.

I put a request in a t the parts section of this forum. Thanks for all of the help guys, but this will be hard to source 🙁
 
Looks like I spoke to soon 😉

Expensive but worth it for a treasured player. I seem to recall there was a resistor to change (that sets the LED current) on some of these. There was a printed sheet in the packet detailing values. If replacing a display I would err on the low current side... and try it first on the old one to see the effect.
 
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