Saw this and was very impressed, might even consider giving these a go sometime. Print files and recommended drivers are linked in description.
This guy is on another level with his projects.
This guy is on another level with his projects.
I would have used the W3-1797 shown in many of his images, including in use during his gaming demo in the right channel. That said, the 1364 is quite smooth.
The W3-1876S is a marvel. Can't get better in that size or dimension.
I also think the tweeter looks huge by comparison...
The W3-1876S is a marvel. Can't get better in that size or dimension.
I also think the tweeter looks huge by comparison...
That has a bunch of good ideas. But the HornResp design has me wondering. And he missed taking advantageof push-push when he added the 2nd woofer.
The tweeter is likely unnecessary.
dave
The tweeter is likely unnecessary.
dave
I saw this too and though that filling to cavities with that liquid is a clever idea! Have others tried that or similar?
You'd have to create the cavities as done above.
If you just allowed the walls to be hollowed, the infill pattern would prevent it flowing through the structure.. and removing the infill could take away the printing supports for parts of it.
If you just allowed the walls to be hollowed, the infill pattern would prevent it flowing through the structure.. and removing the infill could take away the printing supports for parts of it.
There are many solutions for making vase-like structures with FDM, so this is a non-issue. Any speaker design could be made with this method.
My only concern is the possibility of future degradation of the infill material. Any cracks that form will be unfixable points of resonance. That being said, the reinforced plaster can be replaced with other materials. The main problem from other materials will be curing temp, expansion / contraction, and degradation over time and stress accumulation. Choosing a suitable material will be much more cost, labor, and time intensive than just printing a dense infill, IMO.
I don't think you can just make solid blocks with the designer and let infiller do it's magic. This is complex enough to mandate specifically designed cavities. One should also design the cavities so that the plaster can actually flow into and fill all of the cavities and not leave any trapped air.
That's what I though too about the cracking. Also the plaster that DIY Perks used will only push the resonances to a higher frequency, so if different case structure doesn't push them high enough, it will still be a problem. Also low frequency displayed increased resonances in the video, but I think that is also a matter of the actual shape of the case being worked on.
I'm new to this kind of case building and materials. Are the any other options that could be used? For example something rubbery like? Or polyurethane or polystyrene?
That's what I though too about the cracking. Also the plaster that DIY Perks used will only push the resonances to a higher frequency, so if different case structure doesn't push them high enough, it will still be a problem. Also low frequency displayed increased resonances in the video, but I think that is also a matter of the actual shape of the case being worked on.
I'm new to this kind of case building and materials. Are the any other options that could be used? For example something rubbery like? Or polyurethane or polystyrene?
You only need to push the resonance frequency of the cabinet past 500hz or so before the it doesn't matter, and it's not as big of a deal as many make it out to be. Cabinet structure design is usually more important than the material used when it comes to dampening cabinet specific resonance.
I think this project is an interesting and nice one in terms of a technical showcase, and it was certainly fun and educative for the builder to set it up. Thank you for sharing
Any system relying the W3-1876S will be limited in terms of SPL. Besides being small, this specific W3-1876S is flawed in terms of sensitivity. All in all, what a ridiculous mouthful is it when TangBand labels this mickey driver a Subwoofer ...
From the Datasheet:
SENSITIVITY 1W/1m：76 dB
MAXIMUM POWER INPUT：30 W
X-max：5 mm
EFFECTIVE PISTON AREA：0.0027 M²
Applied in a twin setup such in this project, the two drivers might yield a total max. power-rated limited maximum SPL of some 96dB at frequencies above approx. 135Hz. If the Amp is delivering 60W into then. 60W of thermal stress for theirs tiny voice coils, thus vigourously heating them up for a hefty dynamic thermal SPL compressing behavior.
In terms of Vds-limited maximum SPL's, a pair of such drivers will max. deliver some 91dB@100Hz and 79dB@50Hz. Driven so hard to theirs max. excursion, it might then certainly be very, very hilarious to measure the THD and IM results. Or maybe also disgusting.
While fitting the tweeter, the author comments that the addition of this tweeter is to satisfy the "most demanding of listeners". What a mouthful again. But who know, maybe he is right in doing so. As said. This project has certainly the potential to be a nice soundbar, maybe up to SPL levels of some 75dB or so. And as such, it might possibly satisfy the most demanding soundbar listeners. Even more so, as the term "most demanding" might be a self-defined, and therefore primarly subjective attribute every individual listener might be fond of.
Any system relying the W3-1876S will be limited in terms of SPL. Besides being small, this specific W3-1876S is flawed in terms of sensitivity. All in all, what a ridiculous mouthful is it when TangBand labels this mickey driver a Subwoofer ...
From the Datasheet:
SENSITIVITY 1W/1m：76 dB
MAXIMUM POWER INPUT：30 W
X-max：5 mm
EFFECTIVE PISTON AREA：0.0027 M²
Applied in a twin setup such in this project, the two drivers might yield a total max. power-rated limited maximum SPL of some 96dB at frequencies above approx. 135Hz. If the Amp is delivering 60W into then. 60W of thermal stress for theirs tiny voice coils, thus vigourously heating them up for a hefty dynamic thermal SPL compressing behavior.
In terms of Vds-limited maximum SPL's, a pair of such drivers will max. deliver some 91dB@100Hz and 79dB@50Hz. Driven so hard to theirs max. excursion, it might then certainly be very, very hilarious to measure the THD and IM results. Or maybe also disgusting.
While fitting the tweeter, the author comments that the addition of this tweeter is to satisfy the "most demanding of listeners". What a mouthful again. But who know, maybe he is right in doing so. As said. This project has certainly the potential to be a nice soundbar, maybe up to SPL levels of some 75dB or so. And as such, it might possibly satisfy the most demanding soundbar listeners. Even more so, as the term "most demanding" might be a self-defined, and therefore primarly subjective attribute every individual listener might be fond of.
At 2.83V, it is closer to 80dB, not 76dB. This makes a huge difference. Ultimately, yes it is limited in max spl, but it is a 3" woofer. I run my pair with 30W in series, and they handle just fine because of the 4th order bandpass alignment. At the power I'm using, they do not unload.
I don't use a highpass on these other than the sealed box, but that does not mean there is not a highpass on the amp module I used. There is no document stating there is one on it that I've found, and it can drive them past xmax without a box.
Bandpass alignments are very low HD, so that is improved, and the PR exit eliminates chuffing.
In most vented cases I've used these, several, they do require a 40Hz highpass so that they won't unload.
Just like any other small subwoofer, this may not be loud enough for some people, but it amazed last summer and prior at a couple speaker building get togethers I attended. The first was a pretty big room, and this little loaf of bread did well to fill it. Jaws were on the floor at the second one.
TB does know how to get bass from small drivers. I just make sure I use the models with 80dB or higher sensitivity.
I don't use a highpass on these other than the sealed box, but that does not mean there is not a highpass on the amp module I used. There is no document stating there is one on it that I've found, and it can drive them past xmax without a box.
Bandpass alignments are very low HD, so that is improved, and the PR exit eliminates chuffing.
In most vented cases I've used these, several, they do require a 40Hz highpass so that they won't unload.
Just like any other small subwoofer, this may not be loud enough for some people, but it amazed last summer and prior at a couple speaker building get togethers I attended. The first was a pretty big room, and this little loaf of bread did well to fill it. Jaws were on the floor at the second one.
TB does know how to get bass from small drivers. I just make sure I use the models with 80dB or higher sensitivity.
Another project 3d-printed and filled with "dental plaster" (german, may need google translator) ...
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=9167
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=9167
Excellent choice! Dental plaster is hard, heavy and has a very high inner damping. There is a caveat, then: The autor said he filled the room between the double walls of the speaker housing with this dental plaster through a hole in the bottom. Dental plaster gets prepared with some 18ml ... 22ml of water per 100g of plaster powder. Some of this water gets chemically bonded into the hardening structure, where it remains stable. But there will still be some extra water lurking around. I now wonder how long it takes to let evaporate all this residual humidity sandwiched in between the two printed plastic shells. Maybe an array of small punctures through the inner shell (inner shell for aesthetics sake) should be provided to allow a reasonably "fast" and also a complete drying.
I would not dare to fit the drivers before such a compound wall is completely dryed: Time ago, some of my fancy Seas Excel magnesium membranes got corroded already by "normal" atmospheric humidity in central Europe and far away from any Ocean and even a Lake. Meanwhile, Seas claims to have solved this well-known problem by theirs new graphene coating. Nice outlook, and I hope for all future Excel graphene coated magnesium drivers customers that this promise keeps true. As for me, I keep being very reluctant to match water with any driver (except maybe for underwater sonar devices).