tldr can i run a tda3116 off two sla cells which would equal 25 or 26 volts ?
is a buck or a step down very ineffficiant ?
( this is a battery operated rig / rigs .
thanks .
the full version was just too long so i edited . read at your own risk .
thanks 🙂
petey
hello , and thank you so much for this wonderful source of info . / sorry if this is in the wrong place . also i admit being overwhelmed and trying to search for answers and failing so ... i am so sorry if this has been answered already and also for asking so many simple questions .
i have managed to hack together without injuring myself fatally , a set of guitar bass / keyboard amps with class d boards . we use 12 volt sla cells to power them . i am presently looking to upgrade . i see some of the tpa3116 are listed on ebay ranging from 12 to 24 volts . there are so many models , info , opinions i am overwhelmed .
our sealed lead acid cells typically meter out at 12.5 to 13.10 .
so if i would be using two sealed lead acid cells that would end up being more like 25 to 26 and even 26.5 at the most if i use two really strong cells . am i going to blow something like a cap or the chip running the board off 25 - 26 volts ? if so , why are some listed at 26 volts and other at 24 . i see some that the photo is the same one is listed as a tpa3116da and then a d2 ?
is there a better option than the 3116 for 25/26 volts sla powering ? i am looking to start purchasing more affordable boards as the first run of lower powered stuff i did was all by sure electronics . am i dreaming ? is this a non option ?
i do not mind modding , but i would prefer not modding . i would also prefer to keeep things simple and not use buck boards or reducer boards , am i just being silly ? i have no idea about the efficiency but i would guess the further one utilizes the more heat generated so in this case maybe 75 percent which does not sound good to me . we play for 8 hours , after we get set up we stay till dark as we do have 70 plus original pieces of music .
we use mostly stereo amps , but i am also doing some mono as well , to have a smaller version of our rig . i had a small blue35watt board i did not test , we connected that to an 8 ohm speaker and 24 volts and got nothing . that board is dead , the seller refused to communicate so i have kind of been very worry some since that incident , perhaps too much ...
most of the speakers are 8 ohm but we have a set of four ohms as well . i was hoping to use a 7492 on that but i read it says 4 ohms runs 18 volts which sucks as i would like to use 2 x 12.5 cells . i would like a 50x2 to run on 25/26 volts @ 4 ohms for these guitar cabs i have but .... today i pulled the trigger on a 5 dollar 7492 2x50 which may have been a mistake .after pulling the trigger i saw it is rated at 18 v for 4 ohms , and 26 for 8 . my question on that is will the amp actually blow if i 25 volt it with 4 ohm cabs ?
today i ordered a mono sure tda3116 board , i plan on running that at 25/6 volts and 8 ohms . we got a gk neo 210 for 20 at goodwill so that should work well on that cab . i built an amz 2 channel mixer to combine the drum machine / bass guitar that will front end that sure tpa3116 mono board @ 25-26 volts .
so one option is my other question is how bad of an idea is using a boost converter with a sealed lead acid cell , i would be trying to hit closer to 19 volts , off of a 12.5 or so 7mah battery for HOURS of use . perhaps a buck is not wise where going with a amp board rated for 26 volts , and using two sealed lead acid cells would be best . i am going for efficiency here . i have not even considered using a voltage reduction circuit on 2 cells , or something hackish like a diode to reduce currant ?
the thing is these amps are for remote use so , i have been doing this with no back ups so far we had one day were things didnt pan out . i would like to have back ups , run the system more efficiently , and get a little louder as we picked up some new cabinets . so far class d has been an adventure for us as we have been able to make music outdoors . i have picked up the sealed lead acid cells used from goodwill as uverse att has belkin back up boxs and i have been doing well finding those for between 3 and 5 dollars .
thank you all so much for any assistance . i suppose most all of these questions remain answerless as typically if i do seek assistance online , the questions are so rediculous , so forgive me for wasting everyones time . i can just work thru this by blowing stuff up till i figure it out myself .
i will type this out to avoid having people get extremely angry with me
for being such a wuss / tight wad . . . i was hoping to not blow anything up , i do realize how cheap they are , i should mention i hurt my back / am in a lot of pain so money is very very tight . besides that it is tough for me to work / service them . when the family goes out and does make music , i can not walk for three days and need a week recovery . i like to not tinker . i prefer to build once and have the unit work well , rather than smoke outs and r and d .
thanks again so much .
petey
video of the band in action we are not very good , : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlMB3qEb_a0
is a buck or a step down very ineffficiant ?
( this is a battery operated rig / rigs .
thanks .
the full version was just too long so i edited . read at your own risk .
thanks 🙂
petey
hello , and thank you so much for this wonderful source of info . / sorry if this is in the wrong place . also i admit being overwhelmed and trying to search for answers and failing so ... i am so sorry if this has been answered already and also for asking so many simple questions .
i have managed to hack together without injuring myself fatally , a set of guitar bass / keyboard amps with class d boards . we use 12 volt sla cells to power them . i am presently looking to upgrade . i see some of the tpa3116 are listed on ebay ranging from 12 to 24 volts . there are so many models , info , opinions i am overwhelmed .
our sealed lead acid cells typically meter out at 12.5 to 13.10 .
so if i would be using two sealed lead acid cells that would end up being more like 25 to 26 and even 26.5 at the most if i use two really strong cells . am i going to blow something like a cap or the chip running the board off 25 - 26 volts ? if so , why are some listed at 26 volts and other at 24 . i see some that the photo is the same one is listed as a tpa3116da and then a d2 ?
is there a better option than the 3116 for 25/26 volts sla powering ? i am looking to start purchasing more affordable boards as the first run of lower powered stuff i did was all by sure electronics . am i dreaming ? is this a non option ?
i do not mind modding , but i would prefer not modding . i would also prefer to keeep things simple and not use buck boards or reducer boards , am i just being silly ? i have no idea about the efficiency but i would guess the further one utilizes the more heat generated so in this case maybe 75 percent which does not sound good to me . we play for 8 hours , after we get set up we stay till dark as we do have 70 plus original pieces of music .
we use mostly stereo amps , but i am also doing some mono as well , to have a smaller version of our rig . i had a small blue35watt board i did not test , we connected that to an 8 ohm speaker and 24 volts and got nothing . that board is dead , the seller refused to communicate so i have kind of been very worry some since that incident , perhaps too much ...
most of the speakers are 8 ohm but we have a set of four ohms as well . i was hoping to use a 7492 on that but i read it says 4 ohms runs 18 volts which sucks as i would like to use 2 x 12.5 cells . i would like a 50x2 to run on 25/26 volts @ 4 ohms for these guitar cabs i have but .... today i pulled the trigger on a 5 dollar 7492 2x50 which may have been a mistake .after pulling the trigger i saw it is rated at 18 v for 4 ohms , and 26 for 8 . my question on that is will the amp actually blow if i 25 volt it with 4 ohm cabs ?
today i ordered a mono sure tda3116 board , i plan on running that at 25/6 volts and 8 ohms . we got a gk neo 210 for 20 at goodwill so that should work well on that cab . i built an amz 2 channel mixer to combine the drum machine / bass guitar that will front end that sure tpa3116 mono board @ 25-26 volts .
so one option is my other question is how bad of an idea is using a boost converter with a sealed lead acid cell , i would be trying to hit closer to 19 volts , off of a 12.5 or so 7mah battery for HOURS of use . perhaps a buck is not wise where going with a amp board rated for 26 volts , and using two sealed lead acid cells would be best . i am going for efficiency here . i have not even considered using a voltage reduction circuit on 2 cells , or something hackish like a diode to reduce currant ?
the thing is these amps are for remote use so , i have been doing this with no back ups so far we had one day were things didnt pan out . i would like to have back ups , run the system more efficiently , and get a little louder as we picked up some new cabinets . so far class d has been an adventure for us as we have been able to make music outdoors . i have picked up the sealed lead acid cells used from goodwill as uverse att has belkin back up boxs and i have been doing well finding those for between 3 and 5 dollars .
thank you all so much for any assistance . i suppose most all of these questions remain answerless as typically if i do seek assistance online , the questions are so rediculous , so forgive me for wasting everyones time . i can just work thru this by blowing stuff up till i figure it out myself .
i will type this out to avoid having people get extremely angry with me
for being such a wuss / tight wad . . . i was hoping to not blow anything up , i do realize how cheap they are , i should mention i hurt my back / am in a lot of pain so money is very very tight . besides that it is tough for me to work / service them . when the family goes out and does make music , i can not walk for three days and need a week recovery . i like to not tinker . i prefer to build once and have the unit work well , rather than smoke outs and r and d .
thanks again so much .
petey
video of the band in action we are not very good , : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlMB3qEb_a0
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that is a large heat sink . at 20 dollars for the circuit , i think i am going to purchase a board that is listed to run @ 26 volts as i am looking at a few now . thank you so much for posting , i had looked at some converters which were a bit smaller , like the 3 dollar ones . makes sense that doing it right wiould require a bit larger unit . greenguy
so with a 50x2 tda amp it is like 5- 10 amp or 60 watts ? what is a simple and safe way to recuce the voltage ? say i have two 12.8 cells sum to 25.6 volts and i would like the amp to run at 23 volts , is this easily acomplished with say a large watt resistor ? is there a simple / cheap method to reduce the voltage that does not create a lot of heat ?
i was thinking a voltage regulator but the ones i have worked with are like 1 amp ... i am stumped at the moment .
wondering if something like this would work :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XL4016E1-DC...fd06a4b&pid=100033&rk=3&rkt=8&sd=162058099383
what is killing me is that its only a small amount . i have a sure tpa3116 mono board i ordered and didnt read it is rated at 24 max .... this really ruins the fun of it .
i was thinking a voltage regulator but the ones i have worked with are like 1 amp ... i am stumped at the moment .
wondering if something like this would work :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XL4016E1-DC...fd06a4b&pid=100033&rk=3&rkt=8&sd=162058099383
what is killing me is that its only a small amount . i have a sure tpa3116 mono board i ordered and didnt read it is rated at 24 max .... this really ruins the fun of it .
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The tpa3116 is rated for 26V max(Recommended Operating Conditions), and can handle up to 30v until it breaks.
The Board you purchased is probably rated 24V max because of a few cheap 25V caps. Just replacing them is the easiest, cheapest and most power efficient method.
You might should have put a link to your board.
The Board you purchased is probably rated 24V max because of a few cheap 25V caps. Just replacing them is the easiest, cheapest and most power efficient method.
You might should have put a link to your board.
No need for a buck converter, just run the boards from the 2 SLA. Just make sure, the caps are rated for 35+V and you're safe. When charging the cells, either disconnect the amp (in case of bulk charge to 14.7V each battery), or use a lower final charge voltage (like float voltage at 13.7V). If the amp has reverse polarity protection (diode in series with the power input) another 0.4-0.7V is dropped at the input. So, nothing will get damaged.
the cells are not inside the amps . so i have that going for me .
jim beam / doctormord , you have been very helpful and put my mind at ease .
i guess the problem i had and was struggling with is WHY the manufacturer would 25 volt cap a chip that is rated to 26/30 .
goes to show how much i know about businesses , of course it is the cap ratings as i have checked the datasheets . i will post links to the boards , see what i can see from looking at the photos , maybe if i am lucky i can even order caps , if i dont already have them here .
is my logic flawed in thinking i can get away with using any ole cap as long as the rating works as these are not so much hifi , i am more about reliability . ie , i just do not want anything to fail .
thanks
jim beam / doctormord , you have been very helpful and put my mind at ease .
i guess the problem i had and was struggling with is WHY the manufacturer would 25 volt cap a chip that is rated to 26/30 .
goes to show how much i know about businesses , of course it is the cap ratings as i have checked the datasheets . i will post links to the boards , see what i can see from looking at the photos , maybe if i am lucky i can even order caps , if i dont already have them here .
is my logic flawed in thinking i can get away with using any ole cap as long as the rating works as these are not so much hifi , i am more about reliability . ie , i just do not want anything to fail .
thanks
board number one -DC 8 26V TPA3118 PBTL Mono Digital Amplifier Board Amp Module 1 60W Arduino SP | eBay
picture shows 25 volt aluminum smd capacitors, description quote 12-26 volts
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/n-8AAOSwFe5XxFQc/s-l500.jpg
question one
A - replace caps with your normal everyday 330uf/35v reg electro stock
B - you need a fancy aluminum smd cap you will have to order .
i realize the regular electros may be larger so it may get ugly . i am just curious if this will work , also if its a nightmare mess to try so i should just order them i will but i was hoping i could get away with squeezing my electros i have here in the board .
board two - TDA7492 2 x 50W D Class High Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp Board Radiator | eBay
picture shows single brown 25v 100uf electro thru hole .
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XWkAAOSwdzVXmFLc/s-l1600.jpg
board two
A - just replace the brown cap with a reg ole 35v 1000uf electro
B - there is more to this than just replacing the brown cap
board 2 extra querry / conundrum - board three states if the impedance is 4 ohms run it less than 18 volts , if the impedance is 6 ohms run it less than 24 volts , if the impedance is 8 ohms run it less than 26 volts - . after i replace the brown cap on this board can i ignore this and run my 4 ohm speakers with 26 volts ?
diode folly question FOUR - i keep getting hung up on dropping voltage with a couple of diodes . like in a pinch i could do this . it NOT a good idea to just throw two diodes with lets say a .7 or so voltage drop , one on each side of the power input if so do i need to be aware of a rating on the diode so they do not fail ?
board three ebay link - 1x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board TPA3116 Sure AA AB31184 | eBay
photo - http://store3.sure-electronics.com/...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/s/dsc08827.jpg
i zoomed and i can make out half of 35 on the caps in rows i am for sure it is in fact 35 volt caps on the sure Sure AA-AB31184 board . the issue is datasheet is reading only a 2 ohm load and max 24 volt recommended 21 volt . the stereo version of this board shows multiple , 4 , 6 , 8 , ohm loads and then 12-26 volts as well .... what gives , sure ?
they appear to be normal electro thru hole caps , black with gold stripe . this board was expensive ! i REALLY need to run it with two sla cells.
i panicked and pulled the trigger on this last night - DC DC Buck Converter 5V 40V to 1 2 36V 8A 200W Adjustable Step Down Power Module | eBay
question six my concerns with the sure board and its data sheet vs what i am trying to do , which is run it on an 8 ohm load , with 26 volts . one option would be this buck board step down i bought , another , using diodes / resistor / voltgae regulators .
curious if this buck step down was a bad idea . i was planning to use two sla @ 26 and reduce the voltage to 21 - 23 with this unit . efficiency / heat is a huge issue . i was thinking if i did run this , would it be more efficient at 23 vs 21 ?
thank you all SO much .
picture shows 25 volt aluminum smd capacitors, description quote 12-26 volts
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/n-8AAOSwFe5XxFQc/s-l500.jpg
question one
A - replace caps with your normal everyday 330uf/35v reg electro stock
B - you need a fancy aluminum smd cap you will have to order .
i realize the regular electros may be larger so it may get ugly . i am just curious if this will work , also if its a nightmare mess to try so i should just order them i will but i was hoping i could get away with squeezing my electros i have here in the board .
board two - TDA7492 2 x 50W D Class High Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp Board Radiator | eBay
picture shows single brown 25v 100uf electro thru hole .
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XWkAAOSwdzVXmFLc/s-l1600.jpg
board two
A - just replace the brown cap with a reg ole 35v 1000uf electro
B - there is more to this than just replacing the brown cap
board 2 extra querry / conundrum - board three states if the impedance is 4 ohms run it less than 18 volts , if the impedance is 6 ohms run it less than 24 volts , if the impedance is 8 ohms run it less than 26 volts - . after i replace the brown cap on this board can i ignore this and run my 4 ohm speakers with 26 volts ?
diode folly question FOUR - i keep getting hung up on dropping voltage with a couple of diodes . like in a pinch i could do this . it NOT a good idea to just throw two diodes with lets say a .7 or so voltage drop , one on each side of the power input if so do i need to be aware of a rating on the diode so they do not fail ?
board three ebay link - 1x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board TPA3116 Sure AA AB31184 | eBay
photo - http://store3.sure-electronics.com/...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/s/dsc08827.jpg
i zoomed and i can make out half of 35 on the caps in rows i am for sure it is in fact 35 volt caps on the sure Sure AA-AB31184 board . the issue is datasheet is reading only a 2 ohm load and max 24 volt recommended 21 volt . the stereo version of this board shows multiple , 4 , 6 , 8 , ohm loads and then 12-26 volts as well .... what gives , sure ?
they appear to be normal electro thru hole caps , black with gold stripe . this board was expensive ! i REALLY need to run it with two sla cells.
i panicked and pulled the trigger on this last night - DC DC Buck Converter 5V 40V to 1 2 36V 8A 200W Adjustable Step Down Power Module | eBay
question six my concerns with the sure board and its data sheet vs what i am trying to do , which is run it on an 8 ohm load , with 26 volts . one option would be this buck board step down i bought , another , using diodes / resistor / voltgae regulators .
curious if this buck step down was a bad idea . i was planning to use two sla @ 26 and reduce the voltage to 21 - 23 with this unit . efficiency / heat is a huge issue . i was thinking if i did run this , would it be more efficient at 23 vs 21 ?
thank you all SO much .
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