I just gutted a pair of Sound Blaster SBS250 computer speakers. I bought them a few days ago for a couple of bucks to get the amp.
Silicone caulking was used all over - partially to hold the PCB onto the cabinet, and then again as a shock absorber to hold everthing in place in case they got banged around or dropped (it's all over the caps.) There's a DIP IC under the heatsink but I'm not sure exactly what it is - but likely a 2 stage stereo amp.
I just did this to have a little fun.
Silicone caulking was used all over - partially to hold the PCB onto the cabinet, and then again as a shock absorber to hold everthing in place in case they got banged around or dropped (it's all over the caps.) There's a DIP IC under the heatsink but I'm not sure exactly what it is - but likely a 2 stage stereo amp.
I just did this to have a little fun.
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Here's a 6.5" speaker that I got from a 1961 Sears stereo reel to reel.
Here's the same Sears speaker next to the Creative 2" computer speaker.
I had the Sears speakers hooked up to this little chip amp last night. They sounded shrill - way too squelchy. I'll mount them back in the cabinet tonight and see if that helps. I have an old pair of crossovers somewhere. I'll hook them up and use them a low pass filter.
Again, it's all for fun.
Here's the same Sears speaker next to the Creative 2" computer speaker.
I had the Sears speakers hooked up to this little chip amp last night. They sounded shrill - way too squelchy. I'll mount them back in the cabinet tonight and see if that helps. I have an old pair of crossovers somewhere. I'll hook them up and use them a low pass filter.
Again, it's all for fun.
Hi, I have a bunch of them
also in the 2.1 flavor !
I think that low power= direct connection to the amplifier
As a crossover dissipates power...
You might want to check the impedance of the speaker to see if the crossover
is for 4 or 8 Ω speakers, as the values need to change; or, you may get a lower crossover cut-off point if using a 4 Ω speaker with a * 8 Ω crossover*
But I think that tonight the enclosuring will do the trick of levelling the response
also in the 2.1 flavor !
I think that low power= direct connection to the amplifier
As a crossover dissipates power...
You might want to check the impedance of the speaker to see if the crossover
is for 4 or 8 Ω speakers, as the values need to change; or, you may get a lower crossover cut-off point if using a 4 Ω speaker with a * 8 Ω crossover*
But I think that tonight the enclosuring will do the trick of levelling the response
My bet it is a TEA2025B. I wouldn't use it with any different configuration other than the original (with 4 ohms Soundblaster speaker, no passive components).I just gutted a pair of Sound Blaster SBS250 computer speakers. I bought them a few days ago for a couple of bucks to get the amp.
Silicone caulking was used all over - partially to hold the PCB onto the cabinet, and then again as a shock absorber to hold everthing in place in case they got banged around or dropped (it's all over the caps.) There's a DIP IC under the heatsink but I'm not sure exactly what it is - but likely a 2 stage stereo amp.
I just did this to have a little fun.
I still use one of these little amps to drive 4 Soundblaster passive loudspeakers in series, only one channel playing!, to provide room ambient music for my office.
Old soundcards like this Sound Blaster 16 had amps like TEA2025B onboard. Use in conjunction with computer speakers that were passive speakers when powered off. Multimedia PCs in the past had to integrate everything.
Now, Apple is removing 3.5mm jack from iPhone.
Now, Apple is removing 3.5mm jack from iPhone.
Old soundcards like this Sound Blaster 16 had amps like TEA2025B onboard. Use in conjunction with computer speakers that were passive speakers when powered off. Multimedia PCs in the past had to integrate everything.
Adlib, Hercules, and Creative all made amplified sound cards in the early 90s. Once someone came up with active computer speakers, the headphone level output became the standard (and still is today.) Most dedicated sound cards use software to switch between line-level and amplified headphone output. Most laptops don't.
Some of the very early active computer speakers had fairly hefty amps in them and output up to 15 wpc (without subwoofers.) Now generic computer speakers typically output 1.5 - 5 wpc. High-end computer speakers from companies like Audio Engine and Vanatoo can have 50 or 60 wpc amps in them. I saw one a few days ago that claimed 200 wpc! (I can't remember the manufacturer though.)
I use a pair of Inifinity/Lenovo computer speakers on my TV as they sound much better than the built-in speakers (and as good as most budget soundbars IMO.)
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