I'm building a subwoofer for the trunk of my Subaru Crosstrek.
I have 42.5in x 26in and would prefer the height be 2-4in. I'm having trouble with tuning of the box, as if the port is too wide the speakers go into over excursion, if they are thinner they easily go over 18m/s. I'm not sure how to model tapered waveguides or adding a flare in terms of port length. I'm a mech e but new to audio design, so joined here to learn as much as I could about complex analysis and subwoofer optimization.
I've tried sealed box, ported, 4th order (to basically act as a spring to reduce excursion, but I'm limited on tuning frequency because the back volume can't get any bigger without overexcursion), 6th order series and parallel, have played with 12in low profile sub, but don't know how to simulate downfiring and top must be encloseed as it will be the new trunk surface. The 12in is also pretty tall.
I'd be using an LX1300.1 with about 550W at a 2ohm load. Design shown is 6 Dayton Audio 2x7s. I'm trying to get low. I will have 2x 10in self powered el cheapos behind the driver and passenger seats, which will cover the 60-100hz range fine. That's what I did in the truck and it did the trick. I've never had low low bass and don't want to miss out on this opportunity with a brand new car.
I've attached a few pictures, but I've been through very many iterations, these are just some recent ones to show the process of building the subwoofer.
I'm also not opposed to passive radiators, but the only 2in or less ones are cheapo knockoffs with no TS parameters for excursion or moving mass or anything so I don't know how to begin that calculation.
I have 42.5in x 26in and would prefer the height be 2-4in. I'm having trouble with tuning of the box, as if the port is too wide the speakers go into over excursion, if they are thinner they easily go over 18m/s. I'm not sure how to model tapered waveguides or adding a flare in terms of port length. I'm a mech e but new to audio design, so joined here to learn as much as I could about complex analysis and subwoofer optimization.
I've tried sealed box, ported, 4th order (to basically act as a spring to reduce excursion, but I'm limited on tuning frequency because the back volume can't get any bigger without overexcursion), 6th order series and parallel, have played with 12in low profile sub, but don't know how to simulate downfiring and top must be encloseed as it will be the new trunk surface. The 12in is also pretty tall.
I'd be using an LX1300.1 with about 550W at a 2ohm load. Design shown is 6 Dayton Audio 2x7s. I'm trying to get low. I will have 2x 10in self powered el cheapos behind the driver and passenger seats, which will cover the 60-100hz range fine. That's what I did in the truck and it did the trick. I've never had low low bass and don't want to miss out on this opportunity with a brand new car.
I've attached a few pictures, but I've been through very many iterations, these are just some recent ones to show the process of building the subwoofer.
I'm also not opposed to passive radiators, but the only 2in or less ones are cheapo knockoffs with no TS parameters for excursion or moving mass or anything so I don't know how to begin that calculation.
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Gotta move air to make bass. Those little drivers will probably not be up to it.
How about a sealed or vented subwoofer built into the spare tire well? That way you get to keep your trunk. It's the solution I used for my vehicle.
How about a sealed or vented subwoofer built into the spare tire well? That way you get to keep your trunk. It's the solution I used for my vehicle.
You're absolutely right. The xmax is too low and the SD is only around a 10in even with 6 of these. So a single 10 would be better technically. I wonder if I could chuck in like 2 8s in a downfire. Even then it gets too thick, and I feel would only hammer the 50-100 range too hard while leaving the 20-50 range in the dust. Don't know why I figured proper porting could change physics, obviously I need to move a huge amount of air in one gust.
The spare tire well is small, and I'd like to retain the spare so my wife never gets stranded somewhere.
I'm looking into downfiring low profile drivers. I saw the peerless gbs and they looked awesome, as well as some low profile tang band drivers. Obviously all of the high excursion drivers are sold out. The kicker l7t subs are nice, but mounting depth is so deep. I'd rather do 8 of the 8" peerless than 1 12in because I have plenty of area, just a small amount of height to hit target.
Stuns me these manufacturers don't get supply and demand.
The spare tire well is small, and I'd like to retain the spare so my wife never gets stranded somewhere.
I'm looking into downfiring low profile drivers. I saw the peerless gbs and they looked awesome, as well as some low profile tang band drivers. Obviously all of the high excursion drivers are sold out. The kicker l7t subs are nice, but mounting depth is so deep. I'd rather do 8 of the 8" peerless than 1 12in because I have plenty of area, just a small amount of height to hit target.
Stuns me these manufacturers don't get supply and demand.
Ya I'm noticing those little drivers just dont push enough air, realistically I'd need an army of them. Limits me to shallow mounts. The best I've seen are the peerless gbs if only I could buy 8 of them and slap it in downfire mode. Going to test and see if that would be any good with the volume I have when I'm off work.
Also, that is a wicked crown vic setup, the power on that thing geez!
Also, that is a wicked crown vic setup, the power on that thing geez!